dillon410021

went out to the 951 after it sat for a week to let it run and it wouldnt start. I get the little tach bounce, I have fuel, and there is power going to the black wire on the coil when the ignition is on. Timing is fine. swapped dme relay as well as the ignition relays. what is the next thing to check?

Ky944TurboNewbie

Do you have the factory alarm? Have you checked to see if you have spark at the plug? Any chance the rotor screw backed out? Any recent work? Are the speed / reference sensor connectors at the back of the engine brittle and failing or do they look good? What is the status of the battery? Does the fuel pump run when jumpered?

will951

Does it turn over or no?

Last week my car wouldn't even turn over but ignition would click and fuel was getting to the rail.....started solenoid went bad.

dillon410021

The motor turns over fine, battery is good. have to check spark at plug, didnt have time before work. ran perfect before last time so i figure something electrical. I will also check rotor. maybe dme/klr problem.

will951

Check the reference sensor plug. Plug behind the intake manifold at the top of the engine bay. Jiggle it a couple times.

Dude....jiggle the plug, not your........

txhokie4life

Any wiring for a MAF? Barn door connection?

mike

dillon410021

ok, here's an update. Still no spark. I get power to coil and everything but no pulsation with when starting on green wire. I bypassed the klr with no success. I get fuel so the factory alarm bypass should be working fine. I have tried several dme relays as well as the ignition relays. The car has a mtune with maf and 80# injectors. tach bounces when motor is turned over. whats next?

Rogue_Ant

Dillion, the majority of the time the original speed & reference sensors and wiring are to blame for no-start situations.

See here:

crank angle sensors

dillon410021

even though I get tach bounce? I did notice one in a while, the car would turn off while driving. it would start right back up though. maybe just a sign of them going out.

Rogue_Ant

It could be your ignition driver solder joints... Greg East put up a thread showing how to repair this (I will link it when I get back in tonight, if you haven't already found it).

dillon410021

ok, I just had a break thru. after hitting the dme aggressively, the cars start right up then dies after 5 seconds. Tried restarting it, nothing. Tapped it somemore and it start up again. I now know its a bad or broken dme or klr. I think dme. Thank you for all your help. Now have to find a new dme

Heres that link Josh:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ed-w-pics.html

It says to try hitting the dme so i did. lol

refresh951

Dillion - I would definitely open up that DME and have a look at it. Inspect for cracked solder joints. Sometime you can just reflow a cracked joint. Use a magnifying glass to carefully inspect the solder joints.