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help! engine knock at idle

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Old 07-26-2013, 03:33 AM
  #31  
jmj951
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Originally Posted by Dougs951S
As Divil stated, your woodruff key is most likely pretty mangled. I would take this time to replace it with an offset key and advance your cam 4* to pick up some low end and midrange torque and quicker turbo response. Its a cheap, easy dyno proven mod.
Doug,
I'm really interested in this. Does it matter which chipset I'm running? Can the cam sprocket be removed with a typical puller, or does it not usually even require that much force? How much force is required to reinstall the cam sprocket - i.e. will I need to tap it back into place - and is it okay for that pressure to be applied with the cam installed and not risk damaging anything? Should loctite be used on the cam bolt?
Thanks,
John
Old 07-26-2013, 04:11 AM
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Does not matter what chipset you are running, cam timing has less to do with fuel and ignition parameters and more to do with the VE of the motor. You will not need a puller to get the sprocket off, and you shouldnt need that much force to reinstall it. Blue loctite on the bolt is a good idea. The hardest part is probably going to be removing the messed up woodruff key, they can sometimes be a bear. Try to grasp it with some snips or small needle nose pliers and see if you can just yank it out. If not, use a flathead very carefully and gently and see if you can sort of wedge it out.. Dont apply a lot of force except to try and pull on it straight up and out. You will notice the cam being advanced immediately...
Old 07-26-2013, 12:47 PM
  #33  
Carlsbergas
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ok so here are some pics
woodruff key:

key socket:

key socket on sproket:

key socket on something:

and the thing who gave me a heart attack:

yep.. broken allen head..
Old 07-26-2013, 12:52 PM
  #34  
divil
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The key and the keyways look absolutely mangled!

When you say the allen head was broken, what do you mean exactly? It looks like you were able to tighten it up in the video.
Old 07-26-2013, 01:00 PM
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i mean i was trying to unbolt cam tower, and my tool head broke off inside the bolt in cam tower..
Old 07-26-2013, 01:01 PM
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so that could be the cause of the engine sound ? what should be my next step ? will i need to replace the camshaft too ?
Old 07-26-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Carlsbergas
i mean i was trying to unbolt cam tower, and my tool head broke off inside the bolt in cam tower..
Oh crap that sucks. If you haven't gotten it off yet, make sure you hit those allen head bolts with a punch & hammer before you try to break them loose. It will make them easier to remove.

Do you have the factory toolkit?
Old 07-26-2013, 01:11 PM
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Chris Prack
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Originally Posted by Carlsbergas
so that could be the cause of the engine sound ? what should be my next step ? will i need to replace the camshaft too ?
Probably. I would replace the cam along with the cam sprocket, rotor hub and keyway.

I allowed my Rennlist membership expire so I can't sell stuff on here but I have several good parts you are going to need and would be willing to help you out by donating to your cause.

PM me if you are interested.
Old 07-26-2013, 01:12 PM
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my brother took all the tools we had to his work, so im koping with things i have untill evenening today when he brings them back, great advice about punching them, first ill have to drill out that stuck bit,

so looks like ill have to replace everything that was in touch with woodruff key ? sproket, chamshaft, rotor hub?
Old 07-26-2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Carlsbergas
my brother took all the tools we had to his work, so im koping with things i have untill evenening today when he brings them back, great advice about punching them, first ill have to drill out that stuck bit,

so looks like ill have to replace everything that was in touch with woodruff key ? sproket, chamshaft, rotor hub?
OK I understand the pic better now...I didn't realize the bit is actually broken off in the bolt.

Before you drill it out, stop by sears and take a look at these...

My guess is they will not fit through the hole in the cam tower, but it's worth checking, because if they do they will remove that bolt a lot quicker than drilling.





They seem to have a few different types...these ones might be thinner:

Old 07-26-2013, 02:35 PM
  #41  
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Thanks! ill deffinatly look at those after work
Old 07-26-2013, 03:00 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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You might try smacking the broken piece with a punch to loosen it up in there an then see if it'll come out with a magnet on a stick. I've drilled those bolts out -- not so bad really but you have to thoroughly disassemble the tower and clean out all the shavings. Having a hardened bit stuck in there won't help -- you'll want a cobalt bit for sure. If one of those sears extractors can fit and get a bite on the outside of the bolt head it's worth a try.
Old 07-26-2013, 07:03 PM
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The largest bit from those extractors is a bit to small so it just griding against the walls chewing them up with no grip.. cant think of what i should do
Old 07-26-2013, 08:20 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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If a magnet doesn't work, loosen the broken piece with a long punch then suck it out with a small hose/tube duct taped to the end of your shopvac hose...
Old 07-26-2013, 09:08 PM
  #45  
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its stuck there really good, when it broke off there was so much sparks it lighted up whole cam tower,

i think bolts were overtighted by someone who put widefiregasket in.

taking out bolts will be pain in the ***


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