AMG_Killer

Ok guys after researching many related topics I wanted some opinions. I was driving today and after I went to accelerate from a red light the car just shut off. It would not restart it would crank but not turn over.It started for a brief second but idled really low and when I gave it gas it wouldn't do anything so I shut it off and let it sit. An hour later it started right up I drove it 1/2 mile home once there I shut it off now it wont start and hasn't started since. Any ideas Speed or reference sensors possibly?

Willard Bridgham 3

Does the tach bounce when you are cranking?

Jfrahm

Most people look at the DME relay for problems like this. If it's got the old part number, replace it with the 993 part number unit. Either way make the jumper wire for testing.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-05.htm

-Joel.

CyCloNe!

Fuel Delivery Issue is my guess.

dmcampbell

Definitely check DME with jumper wire, or just replace.

PEvans

It doesn't sound like exactly the same conditions, but for what it is worth, my 951 died on the fwy with no warning. Luckily I was able to get over to the emergency parking. The starter would not even turn over.

Anyway, it turned out the alternator had quit, and the car was running on the battery until it was finally discharged. Again, there was no warning, no idiot light that came on. The only thing unusual was the antilock brake warning light would come on from time to time over the previous weeks.

AMG_Killer

Yes the tach bounces when cranking

AMG_Killer

I bypassed DME relay so I'm thinking its the reference sensor....

URG8RB8

Speed and reference sensors plus harness back to DME. Had this problem myself. Get the harness and sensors from LR for a reasonable price. If you opt for the aftermarket sensors. The originals are a bit steep.

Dougs951S

Can also use an 84-91 bmw 325I sensor, same part and much cheaper. It will work for both speed and the reference sensor since they are the same part.

incomplete

yep, i used the same parts. the only difference is that the lines are a couple of inches longer.

jvillanueva944

+1 on reference sensor harness to dme. also, check cap and rotor.

URG8RB8

When I said aftermarket sensors that is what I was referring too, they also sell a made in Japan sensor, but not sure on the quality. The main thing is to change both components at the same time not just one or the other.

gregeast

Sounds suspiciously like similar issues I had with my DME. Turned out to be a cracked solder joint on the board. I documented my fix in my DME Repaired/w pics thread, hope it helps you.

Zeff

came to post this.

DME relay or bad solder joint on DME. My car died but had tach bounce, it was the DME itself.