cracked exhaust headers
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
cracked exhaust headers
I have a crack in the exhaust header and it looks like the 1-4 manifold is guilty. It is the original header from 1987, so I cannot complain too much. The 2-3 was previously replaced and appears to still be good. My soap bubble test has not been definitive.
I am leaning towards replacing both of them and have been researching options. I kind of like the look of the Lindsey exhaust headers. One of the reviews says you have to remove the cam tower to get the headers in since they are one piece. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I was thinking of disconnecting the motor mount and jacking the engine up a bit to get clearance. The cam tower is nice and dry and I do not want to mess with it.
Hopefully someone has done this before and can share their experience. Thank you.
I am leaning towards replacing both of them and have been researching options. I kind of like the look of the Lindsey exhaust headers. One of the reviews says you have to remove the cam tower to get the headers in since they are one piece. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I was thinking of disconnecting the motor mount and jacking the engine up a bit to get clearance. The cam tower is nice and dry and I do not want to mess with it.
Hopefully someone has done this before and can share their experience. Thank you.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Keith,
Have you looked at: http://www.frontrangefabrication.com/headers/
Lots of different options for you to choose from for headers.
Have you looked at: http://www.frontrangefabrication.com/headers/
Lots of different options for you to choose from for headers.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
chrenan: Thanks for the review of FRF. Do you think they will go on without pulling the cam tower?
I tried the contact page and it crashed. I will give them a call. I can hear my credit card squealing already.
I tried the contact page and it crashed. I will give them a call. I can hear my credit card squealing already.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Dave's on rennlist as well as dnovak so you can send him a PM.
I'd have to say yes, I think you could get the set I have on with the cam box in place. Obviously I didn't try as it was part of a larger job. Dave will know for sure.
I'd have to say yes, I think you could get the set I have on with the cam box in place. Obviously I didn't try as it was part of a larger job. Dave will know for sure.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I called and talked with him and finally made the Colorado connections. He confirmed that the headers drop in without removing the cam tower. Should have them late next week.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Are you getting the long tube version, or equal length? If he had them in stock I may have gone for both the headers and crossover, but I cannot wait 4 weeks for that.
#10
Pro
I installed LR headers last year. I had to remove my cam tower to install my Lindsey Racing Headers. I'm happy with them. I had to do some very minor cleanup on the inside of the new headers before installing them, but nothing significant that would keep me from recommending them. The fitment was about as perfect as can be - just had to get some downward force on the crossover pipe to get everything lined up (presumably because the crush ring adds a little height until it's compressed).
I would like to hear how the FRF one-piece headers can drop in without removing the cam tower. For me, it wasn't even close. I did not disconnect the passenger-side engine mount to raise the engine and give me a little extra space, so I can't say that it wouldn't have worked, but it seemed like I would have to lift the engine a LOT to make room for a one-piece header and I didn't want to risk straining a bunch of wires and hoses to try it. In my case, since I had the headers out I decided to reseal the oil cooler cover and I figured that job would be a lot easier if I had the cam tower out and could remove it from the top, so all things considered, I just went for the cam tower.
After seeing what I found in the oil cooler cover, I highly recommend resealing it 'while you're in there'. It's not a bad job - the worst parts are disconnecting the oil cooler hoses (thin, stubby wrenches will make this much easier) and cleaning all the crap off of the inside before reassembly.
I would like to hear how the FRF one-piece headers can drop in without removing the cam tower. For me, it wasn't even close. I did not disconnect the passenger-side engine mount to raise the engine and give me a little extra space, so I can't say that it wouldn't have worked, but it seemed like I would have to lift the engine a LOT to make room for a one-piece header and I didn't want to risk straining a bunch of wires and hoses to try it. In my case, since I had the headers out I decided to reseal the oil cooler cover and I figured that job would be a lot easier if I had the cam tower out and could remove it from the top, so all things considered, I just went for the cam tower.
After seeing what I found in the oil cooler cover, I highly recommend resealing it 'while you're in there'. It's not a bad job - the worst parts are disconnecting the oil cooler hoses (thin, stubby wrenches will make this much easier) and cleaning all the crap off of the inside before reassembly.