Hypothetical - new engine from Porsche or rebuild?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hypothetical - new engine from Porsche or rebuild? UPDATE - Cyl 1 scored
I haven't yet got to the bottom of my engine failure as I'm in a different country, but I'm working out my options depending on what is wrong.
Assuming a bottom end rebuild is required, it seems there are the following options
1. Nikasil coating (if no deep gauges) with or without rebore and
New pistons
2. Sleaving with new pistons
3. Used engine
4. New Porsche short block
Option 1 could be around 3k plus additional time and labour for assembly.
Option 2 closer to 4k+ assembly
Option 3 perhaps 1.5 k ?
Option 4 $4.5k
Option 4 comes fully assembled. Haven't checked actual availability but that is the list price.
So, there seems to be a slight cost penalty getting a new short block, but I gather this comes with everything below the head gasket - new pistons, rods and crank. I presume there is no core charge for this and it is a new engine, not rebuild. Anyone know for sure?
So why not just get a new engine. I have never read any posts on installs of new engine, so what's the catch?
Cheers
Assuming a bottom end rebuild is required, it seems there are the following options
1. Nikasil coating (if no deep gauges) with or without rebore and
New pistons
2. Sleaving with new pistons
3. Used engine
4. New Porsche short block
Option 1 could be around 3k plus additional time and labour for assembly.
Option 2 closer to 4k+ assembly
Option 3 perhaps 1.5 k ?
Option 4 $4.5k
Option 4 comes fully assembled. Haven't checked actual availability but that is the list price.
So, there seems to be a slight cost penalty getting a new short block, but I gather this comes with everything below the head gasket - new pistons, rods and crank. I presume there is no core charge for this and it is a new engine, not rebuild. Anyone know for sure?
So why not just get a new engine. I have never read any posts on installs of new engine, so what's the catch?
Cheers
Last edited by Eric_Oz_S2; 06-08-2013 at 04:56 AM.
#5
Rennlist Member
Duke found a shop to do his offset grind, really just need a machine shop with crank experience in this area. My machinist does not have much 951 experience but had done a lot of VW offset grinds.
#6
Racer
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There should be plenty of places in Brissie that can handle an offset crankshaft grind.
I would try Crankshaft Engineering, in Browns Plains. I have had personal experience with them, and my 951 Crankshaft (I had it lightened and checked over).
Mendhams in Brissie is also pretty good. An offset grind is a pretty standard operation on any crank.
I would try Crankshaft Engineering, in Browns Plains. I have had personal experience with them, and my 951 Crankshaft (I had it lightened and checked over).
Mendhams in Brissie is also pretty good. An offset grind is a pretty standard operation on any crank.
#7
Race Car
It's a pretty easy process. especially if you also turn the mains. That is the only trick compared to trying to keep them std. Just have the rod pins ground to mitsu spec with .002 clearance.
You can do a 3.3 with a 3.o base pretty easily.
You can do a 3.3 with a 3.o base pretty easily.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Wow, we've gone off on a bit of a tangent. I have a 3.0 S2 engine, so need to stroke that further. I suspect the failure is more likely in the cylinder - the crank (I hope is OK). Symptoms were blown coolant and oil and a lot of loud rattling from top of engine. No compression on Cyl 1 and oily plug, lots of blow by through crankcase oil fill.
Are we sure that S2 blocks are NLA? I might ring around and find out about that one.
Is there really anywhere in Oz that can Nikasil plate or rebore Alusil blocks with experience?
The other option is wet sleaves and over bore to 3.2L.
Are we sure that S2 blocks are NLA? I might ring around and find out about that one.
Is there really anywhere in Oz that can Nikasil plate or rebore Alusil blocks with experience?
The other option is wet sleaves and over bore to 3.2L.
#10
Rennlist Member
Eric, were you at Rennsport and if so, is that where you did the motor? I was out there pretty early Sunday morning. Sorry not to have caught up.
There's a guy in Sydney who does the proper Alusil honing. New pistons and honing would cost around $2k.
Just a thought.
There's a guy in Sydney who does the proper Alusil honing. New pistons and honing would cost around $2k.
Just a thought.
#11
Professional Hoon
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The hybrid stroker would be a good idea IMO because the only reason is that the bottom end bearings will hold up better at higher RPM. And you'll have additional torque to your bottom end. And it's cheap.
#12
Drifting
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- 400 rwhp/400 ftlbs torque at 6200rpm
- Near k26/6 bottom end performance
- Total cost under $4200 for everything, including my "High Flow" head
- Using 86 Block, dry sleeved, bored to just over 102mm, windage ports added, half filled
- JE Small Block Chevy Pistons, Forged 4032
- Eagle 150mm Mitsubishi Rods
- 86 2.5L crank, offset grind, 86mm stroke, cross drilled
- Compression Ratio is 8.1:1
- ARP Head Studs
- Cometic Head Gasket
- ACL Race Rod Bearings
- Crank Scrapper
- Stock Cam (still researching options)
- MoCal 13 Row Oil Cooler, 235 mm
- Near k26/6 bottom end performance
- Total cost under $4200 for everything, including my "High Flow" head
- Using 86 Block, dry sleeved, bored to just over 102mm, windage ports added, half filled
- JE Small Block Chevy Pistons, Forged 4032
- Eagle 150mm Mitsubishi Rods
- 86 2.5L crank, offset grind, 86mm stroke, cross drilled
- Compression Ratio is 8.1:1
- ARP Head Studs
- Cometic Head Gasket
- ACL Race Rod Bearings
- Crank Scrapper
- Stock Cam (still researching options)
- MoCal 13 Row Oil Cooler, 235 mm
#14
Drifting
Thanks for the link, I costed a conventional 3.0 bottom end around £3-4k depending on spec which is around $5-6k I think, if a hybrid is cheaper and stronger I'm in.
#15
Three Wheelin'
I haven't yet got to the bottom of my engine failure as I'm in a different country, but I'm working out my options depending on what is wrong.
Assuming a bottom end rebuild is required, it seems there are the following options
1. Nikasil coating (if no deep gauges) with or without rebore and
New pistons
2. Sleaving with new pistons
3. Used engine
4. New Porsche short block
Option 1 could be around 3k plus additional time and labour for assembly.
Option 2 closer to 4k+ assembly
Option 3 perhaps 1.5 k ?
Option 4 $4.5k
Option 4 comes fully assembled. Haven't checked actual availability but that is the list price.
So, there seems to be a slight cost penalty getting a new short block, but I gather this comes with everything below the head gasket - new pistons, rods and crank. I presume there is no core charge for this and it is a new engine, not rebuild. Anyone know for sure?
So why not just get a new engine. I have never read any posts on installs of new engine, so what's the catch?
Cheers
Assuming a bottom end rebuild is required, it seems there are the following options
1. Nikasil coating (if no deep gauges) with or without rebore and
New pistons
2. Sleaving with new pistons
3. Used engine
4. New Porsche short block
Option 1 could be around 3k plus additional time and labour for assembly.
Option 2 closer to 4k+ assembly
Option 3 perhaps 1.5 k ?
Option 4 $4.5k
Option 4 comes fully assembled. Haven't checked actual availability but that is the list price.
So, there seems to be a slight cost penalty getting a new short block, but I gather this comes with everything below the head gasket - new pistons, rods and crank. I presume there is no core charge for this and it is a new engine, not rebuild. Anyone know for sure?
So why not just get a new engine. I have never read any posts on installs of new engine, so what's the catch?
Cheers
Cheers,
Mike