Car wonders on the hwy
#17
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
I don't want to replace parts just because ... there are lots of original parts on the car I am sure and I just want to replace the ones that have failed.
#21
Three Wheelin'
Since your struts need to be rebuilt that is probably a good enough test for the mounts. I don't think there is much you can do to test them because even if they look OK, they could go bad shortly after you put your new struts in - then you're going to have to go back in there. You have the early ones so they're not too expensive.
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
Also haven't looked into this but are the M030 mounts interchangeable with non M030?
My mounts look like this and they are not the 2 bolt style VW ones. I should be able to see if they are worn somehow.
Last edited by Lex_GTX; 04-16-2013 at 09:13 PM.
#24
Race Car
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
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Check that your rack is bolted down tight to the crossmember, and that the steering rack bushings are not shot! The fact that you said it is sometimes off to the right and sometimes to the left indicates to me that your rack is moving which can lead to a dangerous failure. I just fixed this same issue on my car and it turns out I had one of the bolts on the driver side holding the rack to the Xmember backed out and was allowing the rack to flex. Also +1 for the VW fox mounts, mine are from a 1990 and cost 13 bucks. They are a bit bigger than the old bearings and dont snap in snug like the stock ones do, but the top hat will force them in place one the suspension is loaded.
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
Check that your rack is bolted down tight to the crossmember, and that the steering rack bushings are not shot! The fact that you said it is sometimes off to the right and sometimes to the left indicates to me that your rack is moving which can lead to a dangerous failure. I just fixed this same issue on my car and it turns out I had one of the bolts on the driver side holding the rack to the Xmember backed out and was allowing the rack to flex. Also +1 for the VW fox mounts, mine are from a 1990 and cost 13 bucks. They are a bit bigger than the old bearings and dont snap in snug like the stock ones do, but the top hat will force them in place one the suspension is loaded.
For the upper strut mounts are you referring to these VW fox ones? So the bushing comes out of the 4 bolt plate and these replace it?
#26
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Right you just press the old bearings out of the studded mount plate and press these new ones in, although they wont stay in on their own. The will be loose until the car's weight is put on them.
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
Reviving this thread.
I replaced the steering rack bushings with poly ones. It feels more solid now. While I was in there I checked by ball joints and they were fine.
I drove some more to get the feel for what is still going on. It feels like as the car picks up speed the steering becomes lighter. And if there are creases or bumps in the highway it will tend to upset it/tramline.
When stationary or at low speed I don't feel play or clunking in the steering wheel. However the steering is too light at higher speeds and this gives it a vague on centre feel.
What are some solutions for heavier steering at higher speeds and better on centre feel?
I replaced the steering rack bushings with poly ones. It feels more solid now. While I was in there I checked by ball joints and they were fine.
I drove some more to get the feel for what is still going on. It feels like as the car picks up speed the steering becomes lighter. And if there are creases or bumps in the highway it will tend to upset it/tramline.
When stationary or at low speed I don't feel play or clunking in the steering wheel. However the steering is too light at higher speeds and this gives it a vague on centre feel.
What are some solutions for heavier steering at higher speeds and better on centre feel?
#28
Three Wheelin'
Reviving this thread.
I replaced the steering rack bushings with poly ones. It feels more solid now. While I was in there I checked by ball joints and they were fine.
I drove some more to get the feel for what is still going on. It feels like as the car picks up speed the steering becomes lighter. And if there are creases or bumps in the highway it will tend to upset it/tramline.
When stationary or at low speed I don't feel play or clunking in the steering wheel. However the steering is too light at higher speeds and this gives it a vague on centre feel.
What are some solutions for heavier steering at higher speeds and better on centre feel?
I replaced the steering rack bushings with poly ones. It feels more solid now. While I was in there I checked by ball joints and they were fine.
I drove some more to get the feel for what is still going on. It feels like as the car picks up speed the steering becomes lighter. And if there are creases or bumps in the highway it will tend to upset it/tramline.
When stationary or at low speed I don't feel play or clunking in the steering wheel. However the steering is too light at higher speeds and this gives it a vague on centre feel.
What are some solutions for heavier steering at higher speeds and better on centre feel?
The way I tested this was to get the rack locking bolt from Paragon, use it to lock the rack in the centre, and then check for movement in the input shaft. I found I could still turn the steering wheel at least 1.5 inches each way with the rack locked in place, with no movement in the tie rods at all. This was with brand new steering universal joints. In my case, it was so bad I could actually reach up behind the cross member, grab the u-joint and turn it by hand, with the rack locked.
In all the research I did I never found anyone with this problem, but maybe once people start looking we are going to see more of this...
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
Check the steering rack itself for free play. I discovered mine has several inches of play at the centre and I'm about to replace it. My symptoms are very similar to yours.
The way I tested this was to get the rack locking bolt from Paragon, use it to lock the rack in the centre, and then check for movement in the input shaft. I found I could still turn the steering wheel at least 1.5 inches each way with the rack locked in place, with no movement in the tie rods at all. This was with brand new steering universal joints. In my case, it was so bad I could actually reach up behind the cross member, grab the u-joint and turn it by hand, with the rack locked.
In all the research I did I never found anyone with this problem, but maybe once people start looking we are going to see more of this...
The way I tested this was to get the rack locking bolt from Paragon, use it to lock the rack in the centre, and then check for movement in the input shaft. I found I could still turn the steering wheel at least 1.5 inches each way with the rack locked in place, with no movement in the tie rods at all. This was with brand new steering universal joints. In my case, it was so bad I could actually reach up behind the cross member, grab the u-joint and turn it by hand, with the rack locked.
In all the research I did I never found anyone with this problem, but maybe once people start looking we are going to see more of this...
#30
Three Wheelin'
BTW It's also worth checking your steering shaft for looseness, the universal joints go bad. If you can just grab it from underneath and try to move it up/down/left/right. There should be no movement. If there is, consider a rebuilt one from http://www.emotorsports.org/.