CyCloNe!

Hey guys I've seen in a few post about members deleting the fuel damper on the rail and I was wondering what is the overall opinion of doing this? I've heard it's fine from a few post and others say keep it due to the way our injectors fire. If the injectors fire method is the issue what about with Josh's (Rogue) maf kit and 80lb high imped injectors I know they fire differently? Thanks for your assistance guys.

Darwantae951

I run high impedance injectors, with no damper, set to batch fire like stock. No problems here.

Dougs951S

But what is the benefit?

CyCloNe!

Main benefit is less fuel lines and parts that need to be replaced down the road. The jumper fuel line that goes from the damper to rail is eliminated which is one of the main lines the burst due to being so close to the engine heat. No performance benefit.

Rogue_Ant

Besides one less component to possibly go bad, none.

Keep the dampener. Replace the jumper-hose with a new one, and don't worry about it.

CyCloNe!

Thanks Darwin, I think I'm going to run that way unless Josh tells me other wise. I know one person on the board had idle issues after doing this but as far as I know he was running a stock car, which I'm not sure if that even matters or not.

CyCloNe!

The mighty Josh has spoken. Also I got a question for you sir. I'm getting a lot of back fire and I mean a lot especially after removing my cat converter. I've been watching my Wideband and every time it does it will drop low to like 11-12 then lean and pop. So I assume I am running rich then and it ignites in the exhaust? I removed the TPS plug it and lowered it a lot but still does it, I've swapped out the TPS and same result. I also changed my FQS to -3% fuel same issue no change.

Rogue_Ant

How do you have the diverter-valve routed?

CyCloNe!

I've rotated it both ways as to how it attaches to the Maf and Intercooler pipe and then I run the top vac line to the fuel damper tee I believe. I have noticed my Diverter was making that flutter sound under boost, when I had it backwards from stock then I rotated it back to stock location. Don't hear the flutter sound any more but either way had backfire. It's a metal reproduction of stock style.

Rogue_Ant

The popping in the exhaust can be caused from a few things...

First, if the TPS isn't triggering the idle-circuit, then the DME won't cut fuel during shift.

Next, if your DV is too close to your MAF sensor, then it can cause the MAF to (falsely) report additional airflow during shift (one reason why we angle the DV return on the M-Tune MAF pipe).

Additionally, if there is an exhaust leak, it will be much more likely to pop/backfire.

Dougs951S

not to derail thread, but I'm running a catless side exit exhaust and it does occasionally pop, never bothered to look at WB when it was doing this as I've always assumed its nothing to be concerned with and that a decatted turbo car will backfire. Should I look into it? its only very occasional, a few times a week at most. more likely to occur when the engine is cold, I'm guessing do to it running richer when cold?

CyCloNe!

Ok, I'll check these things out Josh. Another question since running with a MAF setup with a Map is it still necessary to have the Diverter recycle into the maf pipe? I understand the benefit of keeping it that was but I'm just wondering if venting to atmosphere will mess with driving conditions.

Rogue_Ant

Most any turbo car with a catless, straight-through exhaust will get some popping. Very normal.

Yes, we still want to divert back to the MAF pipe. Any air 'after' the MAF sensor is measured air, we don't want that going anywhere but into the cylinders.

Darwantae951

Just to add to my previous post, I am not using a stock fuel rail. If I were still using stock, I would not delete the damper.

CyCloNe!

Interesting, what rail do you have Darwin? Lindsey?