3.0 block info request
#16
Rennlist Member
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I really like the 3.0 block; tons better than the 2.5. But.... you may want to consider this. It's likely to be much more friendly to the pocket book (using a 2.5 block).
http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatal...n_porsche.html
http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatal...n_porsche.html
#19
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Michael, the current plan is to use the 2.5 block using ductile iron flanged sleeves for a final 4.155 bore.
Normally I wouldn't go so thin on the cylinder walls, but with an integrated deck plate and a short fill, I believe it should prove to be stable enough.
I had great luck with only a short full and gray iron sleeves on the last engine. These sleeves should be quite a bit stronger, so they can be a little thinner.
Thanks for the info on the modification. I had assumed it was something alOng those lines. (head passages)
This block will be a test to see the total cubic inch potential using 2.5 base parts.
I had planned on doing the 95mm stroke but that will have to wait until later in the year. Fortunately, Shawn got right on it do I can live vicariously through his
.
Again a greatly appreciate your feedback!!!
Normally I wouldn't go so thin on the cylinder walls, but with an integrated deck plate and a short fill, I believe it should prove to be stable enough.
I had great luck with only a short full and gray iron sleeves on the last engine. These sleeves should be quite a bit stronger, so they can be a little thinner.
Thanks for the info on the modification. I had assumed it was something alOng those lines. (head passages)
This block will be a test to see the total cubic inch potential using 2.5 base parts.
I had planned on doing the 95mm stroke but that will have to wait until later in the year. Fortunately, Shawn got right on it do I can live vicariously through his
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Again a greatly appreciate your feedback!!!
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Thanks, they look like a very similar design to what was already chosen. They don't show the material on the site, do you know if it's ductile or grey iron?
#23
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Thank you again for your help.
Have you ever done a full deck plate block on one of these yourself? If so or not, how did it work out or why not if I can ask..
Have you ever done a full deck plate block on one of these yourself? If so or not, how did it work out or why not if I can ask..
#24
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No, I haven't tried closing the deck on a 2.5. I always went right to the 3L block instead since the cylinders are tied together at the top, or used the Darton MID (limited experience, but seemed to work well). Are you going to weld the deck plate in?
You can't do too much custom work on the 2.5 block before you're in 3L block territory expense wise. You can often find them pretty cheap if they have a scored cylinder wall or two.
You can't do too much custom work on the 2.5 block before you're in 3L block territory expense wise. You can often find them pretty cheap if they have a scored cylinder wall or two.
#28
Race Car
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I should probably not say too much more as Dave is the one facilitating the block work. We have been working on it for awhile and it's getting close.
I will just say that it is an interference press fit after some machine work.
I don't want to step on his toes by giving out all the info.
I will just say that it is an interference press fit after some machine work.
I don't want to step on his toes by giving out all the info.
#29
Rennlist Member
#30
Nordschleife Master
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Not knowing how e.g. PD makes or installs their deck plate but I've seen plates CNC milled for a perfect fit and pressed in without welding. Then afterwards bore the cylinders and mill the deck.