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3.0 block info request

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Old 03-18-2013, 02:58 PM
  #16  
michaelmount123
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I really like the 3.0 block; tons better than the 2.5. But.... you may want to consider this. It's likely to be much more friendly to the pocket book (using a 2.5 block).

http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatal...n_porsche.html
Old 03-18-2013, 03:00 PM
  #17  
michaelmount123
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Oh: The Darton MID sleeve will go to 4.155" or 105.5mm where there is a good ring selection.
Old 03-18-2013, 03:03 PM
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michaelmount123
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(My thoughts don't come to me all at once (geezin'):

Another helpful mod are 968 piston squirters. It's a fairly easy mod. to the other blocks.
Old 03-18-2013, 03:19 PM
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blown 944
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Michael, the current plan is to use the 2.5 block using ductile iron flanged sleeves for a final 4.155 bore.

Normally I wouldn't go so thin on the cylinder walls, but with an integrated deck plate and a short fill, I believe it should prove to be stable enough.

I had great luck with only a short full and gray iron sleeves on the last engine. These sleeves should be quite a bit stronger, so they can be a little thinner.

Thanks for the info on the modification. I had assumed it was something alOng those lines. (head passages)

This block will be a test to see the total cubic inch potential using 2.5 base parts.

I had planned on doing the 95mm stroke but that will have to wait until later in the year. Fortunately, Shawn got right on it do I can live vicariously through his .

Again a greatly appreciate your feedback!!!
Old 03-18-2013, 08:46 PM
  #20  
michaelmount123
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Sid,
Look at Darton's (Brodix/Rodeck SBC) #1011 flanged sleeve. I've used a ton of them. Cut them to the proper length and they work out quite well.
Old 03-18-2013, 10:55 PM
  #21  
blown 944
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Thanks, they look like a very similar design to what was already chosen. They don't show the material on the site, do you know if it's ductile or grey iron?
Old 03-18-2013, 11:35 PM
  #22  
michaelmount123
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They're ductile. Nicely made; dimensions are VERY consistent.
Old 03-18-2013, 11:44 PM
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blown 944
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Thank you again for your help.

Have you ever done a full deck plate block on one of these yourself? If so or not, how did it work out or why not if I can ask..
Old 03-19-2013, 08:52 AM
  #24  
michaelmount123
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No, I haven't tried closing the deck on a 2.5. I always went right to the 3L block instead since the cylinders are tied together at the top, or used the Darton MID (limited experience, but seemed to work well). Are you going to weld the deck plate in?

You can't do too much custom work on the 2.5 block before you're in 3L block territory expense wise. You can often find them pretty cheap if they have a scored cylinder wall or two.
Old 03-19-2013, 11:51 AM
  #25  
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Btw, how to weld a steel deck plate onto an aluminium block?
Old 03-19-2013, 12:01 PM
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Duke
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Deckplate in aluminium.
Old 03-19-2013, 12:02 PM
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Ok, how do you weld an aluminium deckplate around steel sleeves?
Old 03-19-2013, 12:20 PM
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I should probably not say too much more as Dave is the one facilitating the block work. We have been working on it for awhile and it's getting close.

I will just say that it is an interference press fit after some machine work.

I don't want to step on his toes by giving out all the info.
Old 03-19-2013, 12:23 PM
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refresh951
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Originally Posted by Thom
Ok, how do you weld an aluminium deckplate around steel sleeves?
I do not know anything about what Sid is planning deckplate wise, but iron sleeve is inside the cylinder with aluminum on the outside.
Old 03-19-2013, 12:26 PM
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Duke
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Not knowing how e.g. PD makes or installs their deck plate but I've seen plates CNC milled for a perfect fit and pressed in without welding. Then afterwards bore the cylinders and mill the deck.


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