Crazy Eddie

You will have to drill a hole in the cat pipe for that sensor (see other posts regarding the location etc ) Make sure its done exactly where you mark it ! Ask me how I know

Meine44

I'm hoping to remove the pipe after I mark it and take it to a shop for the 02 sensor bung to be welded in.


Also, I'm running with no cat, so would it matter how far from the turbo I mount the 02?

I know there is a certain distance away, but not sure if that changes since there is no cat it has to be a certain distance in front of.

Crazy Eddie

No difference, still should go where stated in many threads. (I just posted a few pictures for you)
What I did was mark it and then took it to some Ape, that decided to put it where he thought it was best ( just a few mm off and its a very tight fit or no fit at all)

Meine44

Your engine bay is unbelievably clean.

Crazy Eddie

LOL
Don't get me started....
According to Tom
I am OCD

URG8RB8

Believe me, that is an understatement! You must see it in person to get the full effect!

fast951

There are various ways to connect V-KNOCK. You can connect it in parallel with the digital counter, both feed off the same signal from the KLR. Doing so, the counter gets all knock pulses, even the "shadow" ones.

Another way is to connect the counter after V-KNOCK. You would do this to take advantage of V-KNOCK functionality.
V-KNOCK allows you to filter out knock signals you are not interested in. As an example, if you are interested in knock signals when the Throttle is open over a certain %, or WOT. Or if you are interested in capturing knock obove a certain boost level.

As someone mentioned it already, you must know what to do when you detect engine knock. The first and simple step is to know there is knock. With a counter, you get a count, which is hard to read and evaluate while driving. V-KNOCK gives you a visual and optional audible warning, easy to capture while driving. The first line of defense is controlled by the driver. If you detect too many knock counts, then lift off the gas to determine the root cause. If you are tuning, then adjust. If you are running a canned tune, then you are running outside the parameters.. Or ???

When V-KNOCK is used and configured with Vitesse MAF running V-MAF+ software, both systems operate in closed loop. When there is knock, the DME will adjust ignition and fuel. Ignition modifications still occur in the KLR as usual.

People controlling boost via a PiggyBack, can program it to lower boost when knock occurs...

There are many ways to configure the system. From the simple, yet effective, visual warning. To a more elaborate knock management approach.

V-KNOCK has many outputs, some can be used for logging. Be it within the DME itself, via an external data logger (ex. ZT3) or a PB. Logging knock is important, however being able to do something about it when it happens is crucial.

If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a line.

URG8RB8

Very nice explanation John!

fast951

Thanks, I try.

Meine44

That information is exactly what I was looking for John!

I would be looking to hook up the counter after v-knock in order to only count under WOT or high boost.

ZT-2 is also on my list in order to log the data as well.

Controlling ignition and timing during knock events would be great, but that will have to be done a while from now. Just looking for a visuals right now until I can upgrade to a better MAF.

I guess ideally the ZT-2 would display a knock count, but I don't know if that is one of the features of their LCD display.

Crazy Eddie

I don't believe that will display that info, but the V knock has a visual LED or some kind of sound device could be hooked up ( which is the direction I would like to go ) Just waiting for Tom to pull one out of his R&D lab
Also, if you decide to go with the ZT-2 I would go for a round multi-gauge and not the rectangular one they sell ...

Meine44

Why would you prefer the multigage over the lcd display?

Crazy Eddie

Numerous reasons
#1 reason much easier to locate
and looks 100 x better
yad yad yad

Tom M'Guinn

The ZT-2 gauges won't display a knock count number like a counter would (without some trickery anyway), but if you wire the V-Knock to the Zt-2, you can log the knock to see exactly where and when it is happening (and you can count them if interested), which is much more useful than just having an overall number. It's common for the KLR to throw off knock counts when shifting or rev'ing in neutral, etc. So a knock count of 10 could be harmless if they are all occurring on shifts, whereas a knock count of 5 could be cause for concern if all happening on boost. Either way though, a Curtis counter display is a cheap add if you want a number.

Crazy Eddie

As Tom mentioned here is an example of a log from the ZT-2 with the V- knock, logging in the bottom category ( showing up as Zt-2 user 1 volts ) see a REAL knock in the middle of the screen bottom (Only the very peak, is a true knock )
Regards
Ed
opps... forgot the screen