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Started winter suspension upgrade

 
Old 02-04-2013, 11:16 AM
  #16  
9turbo51
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For what it's worth. I just got done doing poly bronze, spherical, solid bushings and mounts.
I took the torsion tube and the rest out to do it. To me opening the hydraulic lines and disconnecting axles is minor compared to trying to do this in the car.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by robstah View Post
You mean lathed down to 10mm, and that sounds like a terrible idea. And if that is the case, the rates are way off. I take it the guy wants you to run massive swaybars too.
You mean "turn"? You turn the bars down in a lathe. Never heard the term lathed before??

You remove as much material as you can so you can pass the PCA "they are still t-bars and still in there" test. They don't have to do anything but be there.

If you don't race PCA, pull them.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:11 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333 View Post
What was the previous setup David? Think you're going to notice a BIG difference if it was stock!
Not stock, but very mild hacksaw Koni yellow's 200lb springs, M030 sways, stock t-bars, so yes I am looking for a big improvement.

Originally Posted by JET951 View Post
Get a lever next to the big bushes on the outer torsion carrier(the bush to the far right on your first picture)

Your going to love the motons.

Sean
I hope so

Originally Posted by 67King View Post
David, if you are dropping the torsion tube, I'd highly recommend you go ahead and change to solid mounts and Delrin spring plate bushings. I don't know what your budget situation is, but pulling hte tube is NOT something you want to do twice, and 25 year old rubber is not something you want on the track much. If you can afford to, go ahead and put in the spherical bearings on the banana arms, too. Bt that can be done later if the budget doesn't allow.

If you disconnect the axles, you'll be able to get the banana arm dropped fully out of the way. If you don't, you'll make the job ten times harder. It is actualy easier to leave it connected to the torsion tube than to leave an axle attached. Of course, if you end up pulling the tube all of the way out of the car, you'll have to disconnect it, which sn't a big deal except for having to deal with the calipers (to avoid breaking into your hydraulics).

Trust me on this, I just went through tihs on the 968, and I tried to do it like you are doing it. Got much easie when the axle was undone,a nd te banana arm dropped out of the way.
Poly bronze spring plate bushings and RE sold t-bar carrier mounts going in for now, spherical banana arm next after I recover from this round, Thanks for the info

Originally Posted by 9turbo51 View Post
For what it's worth. I just got done doing poly bronze, spherical, solid bushings and mounts.
I took the torsion tube and the rest out to do it. To me opening the hydraulic lines and disconnecting axles is minor compared to trying to do this in the car.
I have new rear brake lines to install anyway, so I may just take the t-bar carrier out.. Thanks for the info

Originally Posted by evil 944t View Post
You mean "turn"? You turn the bars down in a lathe. Never heard the term lathed before??

You remove as much material as you can so you can pass the PCA "they are still t-bars and still in there" test. They don't have to do anything but be there.

If you don't race PCA, pull them.
Dave the t-bars are coming out, you want a set to turn down ?

Thanks for the info guys... looking forward to have this back together, corner balanced/aligned, headed to Barber Motorsports Park March 23/24 a lot of car for a hack like me, will have to step it up, Tim I need some driving tips
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:15 PM
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26 years of service



Elbow grease (wish I was clean as Crazy Eddie, but not going to happen ) Elephant Racing poly bronze and Racers Edge solid t-bar carrier bushings, t-bars deleted

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Old 02-09-2013, 10:40 PM
  #20  
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Use degreaser then fallow up with mag wheel cleaner. works great....and is easy.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jc in rb View Post
Use degreaser then fallow up with mag wheel cleaner. works great....and is easy.
Did just that and a drill with wire wheel for the crusty stuff
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:11 AM
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Nice work David. Going to have to do something similar soon. Thanks for the inspiration.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:25 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333 View Post
Nice work David. Going to have to do something similar soon. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks Patrick, going slow and steady, no major issues so far.

@ The WTF bird
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:48 AM
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Yeah, the bird's a killer ain't he! If only he gave the 'bird' at the same time. That's his next trick!

When do you see the next tracktime?
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:17 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333 View Post
When do you see the next tracktime?
March 23
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:30 PM
  #26  
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Can't say that was fun... big heavy parts are back together

still to do:
reattach sway bar
install new drivers side brake line
mount coil-overs
final decision on where to mount remote canisters
corner balance and alignment


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Old 02-10-2013, 10:42 PM
  #27  
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You don't have to remove your transaxle to do all of this do you?
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by zeusrotty View Post
You don't have to remove your transaxle to do all of this do you?
Nope, trans stays in
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:27 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by David Floyd View Post
March 23
David, I forget what group you run in, but if you are a group 4 student, we still have a couple spots open for a March 2,3 DE at Barber!
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:23 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Lemming View Post
David, I forget what group you run in, but if you are a group 4 student, we still have a couple spots open for a March 2,3 DE at Barber!
Would like to, but have plans that weekend
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