User 52121

Whoops! Good catch.

How many "smart" people here read this thread, responded, and didn't catch that one?


Samana76 - what are you using to control boost?

eman930

LOL, Come on give me half credit LOL, Although You can run a Dual Port as a single port, But im sure its FUBAR

CDH-CTT

What about running an aftermarket spark box(MSD 6AL) and coil(blaster)??
DO you still gap them per this??

eman930

Id Run a factory gap if you have a better coil and MSD, I ran a MSD digitial 6plus on my 924S, (OverKill) But I made the gap a little bigger then factory, Worked great

Jfrahm

Can't you just use one (correct) port on a dual port wastegate in this configuration? People often pick the wrong port with the Tial and hook it up to never open (blowing it closed harder rather than blowing it open) so that is probably the main issue the OP has. But yes one should use proper boost control or there is not much point in the aftermarket WG.

If you get some sort of boost control remember to set it in a higher gear. If you set what you think is your max in 1st you might overboost a lot in 3rd.

And to be clear, the bottom port on the Tial goes to vac/boost if you run it in single port mode which is not obvious. You might check your mounting orientation also.

-Joel.

Rogue_Ant

With an CD-type ignition (capacitive discharge ignition, CDI box like an MSD), having a large gap is more important than an inductive-type ignition (factory). So,
I would try increasing the gap on your setup...

samana76

Hello everyone and thank you all for you chipping in. I found all of this information very interesting and very useful. Thank you.
So, after reading all the posts, to solve my overboost problem this is what I am planning to do:

- replace spark plugs with NGK BPR7ES as suggested by Rogue-Ant
- install Rogue's A-Tune Package ( http://www.roguetuning.com/951_afm_kit_a-tuneŠ )
- install a Lindsey Racing manual boost controller ( http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/951BOOST1.html ) to accurately set maximum boost
- install an Autometer Sport Comp Boost gauge model 3301 ( http://www.lindseyracing.com/picsAM/3301.jpg ) to accurately measure boost and vacuum
- install a Innovate Motorsports Air Fuel Ratio gauge with wideband controller and oxygen sensor ( http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Pors...M/IM-3822.html) to accurately check air/fuel mixture
- check that the vacuum lines to the waste gate are connected correctly

Regarding the stock cycling valve, I don't have a clear understanding on what it does, why it might be the culprit of my problem, and what it should be replaced with. Can someone please help understand this? Thank you all again.

Dougs951S

You dont really need to worry about it at this point. If you get all those things you said you are going to get, you are pretty much well past the point that the cycling valve was designed for. Someone smarter feel free to correct me, but as I understand it the CV is basically the car's built in boost controller/overboost protection. You have to bypass it in order to run higher than stock boost, which as you already know is about .8 bar. The manual boost controller you referenced takes the place of the cycle valve. You simply unplug all vacuum lines off the CV and reroute them during the boost controller installation. in addition, you plug off the boost line that comes from the J boot, the little rubber boot that attaches to the intake of the turbo and the Air flow meter.

shortyboy

great supporting mods.i would now do some full WOT runs and see what the fuel ratio looks like when the popping occurs and see if they are lean.

eman930

Im still convinced Your over boosting and that your wastegate is hooked up wrong, All those supporting mods are great and I highly recommend them, But if you simply wanna keep what you have then get your wastegate setup checkout before doing any type of driving, Atleast then you know your starting at a known good spot, rather then adding parts and still having issues. Also if your adding all that stuff, Might wanna think about Lindsey Racings Venturi delete kit, Really cleans up the engine bay and makes diaging vac/boost leaks alot easier

Chris White

Looks like you selected just the right parts! If you want to do it in steps get the boost gauge and AFR gauge first - then you will know what boost / AFR you are making now.

The cycling valve (CV) controls the stock wastegate by modulating the manifold pressure signal that goes to the wastegate. The stock wastegate is a single port wastegate that will not open unless there is a boost pressure signal from the manifold.

URG8RB8

You are in the right track, getting advice from some of the best! If you can afford, I still highly reccomend the entire M-tune kit versus A-tune. If you think you like the power now, after M-tune you will be in a whole new world! Again, as stated in the other post, will require turbo upgrade. I have exactly the same components as you on my CA car, plus turbo and M-tune, can't get 295-18's to hook up in 1 & 2'nd.

samana76

Hello Everyone.
Just a quick update to say that I have just ordered all the items listed above and will try to install them sometime this week/weekend. I'll keep you guys updated.
Thanks again for all your comments and help.

samana76

Hello everyone,

It's been a while since I last wrote, however I haven't had a chance to work on the car until these past few days. I am encountering some problems still with the overboost protection mode. I have opened a new thread dedicated to this issue as now the question has to do with the upgrades and I thought a new thread would be appropriate instead of continuing this older one.

Please check the following thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...errerid=124230

I would truly appreciate your suggestions on the matter.
Thank you all again.
Igor