chrenan

OK, full disclosure, I haven't done an engine-in-car headgasket job since highschool (20 years ago) and never on an aluminum block. I've built engines since then, but always on a stand with a machine shop doing all the cleaning. I'm trying to get this engine through a couple more track seasons while I source some parts for a more serious engine build. I started pressurizing the coolant under boost at the last event of this season.

So, after quite a few hours of hand cleaning with dry green scotch brite pads I'm at this point. Everything is smooth to the touch, when I run my fingers over the dark discoloured areas I can't feel that they are there. Should I keep going? I'm trying to balance having a clean sealing surface with not doing any damage to the sealing area.



Note: While cleaning the water jacket areas and all holes were plugged with shop towells, where the cylinder walls and pistons meet I sealed with a bead of grease and the cylinders were stuffed with shop towell. I vacummed every few minutes while cleaning.

User 52121

I'd say that's clean enough. Scotch-brite huh?

I always use a razor blade to scrape.

slivel

I always clean the tops of the pistons while I'm in there and a little lacquer thinner on a cloth can help to get rid of the carbon band at the top of the cylinders. I think that you are good enough on the block surface. I also use a razor blade and go over the surface.

What are you doing with the cylinder head? Machine shop resurface? Full valve job? Resurface is the minimum that I'd would do to make sure there is no warping of the head. Full vale job and guides if there are many miles or hours of track time on the engine.

chrenan

The head went to Lindsey Racing for their Level I head job: Surfaced Deck, Replace Valve Guides & Seals, Competition 5 Angle Valve Job, new Factory Springs and drilled for the steam vent kit. Just got that back recently and its ready to go.

I brought the cam box and a 9R cam I got from Lart to a local machine shop for cleaning.

So really the only cleaning I have been doing myself is the deck surface and small parts that go on the front and back of the cam box (just soaking those in parts cleaner in the garage and wiping clean).

For those that are interested here is a thread of the work from a local track-rat forum. Didn't post it up here as it isn't really rennlist worthy, pretty standard stuff and there are plenty of similar threads here.

http://straightpipe.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=1539

Thanks for the input so far guys!

reno808

razor blade and super fine sand paper

JustinL

You're good to go on the block I think too. If you want to borrow my razorblade scraper, you are welcome to it. Remember that the head gasket crushes a bit and will squish into any imperfections.

chrenan

Thanks Justin, I don't trust myself with a razor blade near aluminum, even if its a proper safety scraper. Too many rage issues and not enough patience. Should have the head on soon then I'll have to get you over to reduce vacuum lines and do belts!

txhokie4life

I hate razer blades on aluminum too -- I'm more likely to cause issues than clean the surface.

I have used these yellow rubberish buffers that I attach to a compressor or drill.

cleans up things very nicely.

Mike

mtnman82

Timely post for me, as I'm severly lagging on getting mine back together but hoping to get back to it soon. Thanks for posting and thanks to others who have commented. I had started cleaning the block surface with scotchbrite pads and gasoline and was wondering the same thing about how clean it needs to be. I'm also wary of using a razor blade on the aluminum block. Pic below shows where I left off - mostly done on the top of cyl's 1 & 2 and started around the bottom of cyl 1. Maybe I'm being too **** about things... For lack of anything better to use, I covered up the bores with aluminum foil to help keep any crud from getting in there. Yes, I'm going to clean on top of the cyl walls too.

Txhokie - could you post a pic of the yellow rubberish buffers? I read a post from Chris White about them but am unfamiliar with them.

Tom M'Guinn

Cylinder tops look good enough for a widefire or factory gasket. Don't forget the rest of the deck around the perimeter of the block....

slivel

I always use anti-seize on the socket head bolts at the front of the block where the coolant inlet is. When these get corroded they are not fun to deal with.

refresh951

+1, razor blade is my method but it must be used very carefully. I have a big box of blades and switch to new blades often. I use the the blade without a scrapper to have the most control.

txhokie4life

I think these are it -- or at least close.


Although one of the review specifically claims they didn't like it for aluminum. I've had good results with the ones I have.

If I get out to the shop this weekend -- I'll check on what I have there.

pontifex4

Chris White, are you out there? Is this the right product? I am also interested to know, and to get some tips on the right technique for using them.