Engine stand to block bolts ?.
#1
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Engine stand to block bolts ?.
I believe I need M12 x 1.5 bolts to fit the block, as the mounting tubes are 60mm long on my stand, do 100mm long bolts sound about right ?.
#2
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You'll need lots of washers with 100mm bolts. I recently went on a search for these too and came up with some 75's and an 80 that did the trick. In a pinch, you can use the crossmember bolts too, but I don't recall how long they are.
By the way, for anyone doing this on the West side of the pond, 12 x 1.5's aren't typical in hardware stores. It seems that 12 x 1.25 and 12 x 1.75 are the more common Japan-used thread pitches, whereas 12 x 1.5 is more of a German thing. Neither Home Depot or Lowes had the 1.5's, and my local Fastenal was going to have to order them from the central warehouse. I ended up finding some to get by at Zims Autotechnik in Bedford.
By the way, for anyone doing this on the West side of the pond, 12 x 1.5's aren't typical in hardware stores. It seems that 12 x 1.25 and 12 x 1.75 are the more common Japan-used thread pitches, whereas 12 x 1.5 is more of a German thing. Neither Home Depot or Lowes had the 1.5's, and my local Fastenal was going to have to order them from the central warehouse. I ended up finding some to get by at Zims Autotechnik in Bedford.
#4
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The better (and easier) way to do this is to get some 12 x 1.5 threaded rod (actually easier to get than the 12 x 1.5 bolts!) and cut to the right length (many engine stands have different length brackets so don’t figure that the bolts that worked for others will work for you!).
With the threaded rod cut to the correct length you can set the rod into the block and then attach it to the stand and add the washer and nut to the other side. Less chance of buggering up the block threads and easier to remove a complete engine.
With the threaded rod cut to the correct length you can set the rod into the block and then attach it to the stand and add the washer and nut to the other side. Less chance of buggering up the block threads and easier to remove a complete engine.
#5
Drifting
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The better (and easier) way to do this is to get some 12 x 1.5 threaded rod (actually easier to get than the 12 x 1.5 bolts!) and cut to the right length (many engine stands have different length brackets so don’t figure that the bolts that worked for others will work for you!).
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Paul.
#6
I like the threaded rod method. By doing it that way you are engaging all the threads in the block.
I went to Home Depot and bought a length of generic threaded rod and cut it with a sawzall. Worked fine holding up an iron 7.2L V8.
I went to Home Depot and bought a length of generic threaded rod and cut it with a sawzall. Worked fine holding up an iron 7.2L V8.
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#8
Drifting
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I read somewhere, maybe here, that when it isn't being worked on some temporary support under the engine is good insurance, perhaps those 4 12mm threads weren't designed to hang an engine from.