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Dumb No Boost Question

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Old 10-01-2012, 08:44 PM
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Player0
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Default Dumb No Boost Question

So I had a hell of a time putting the xover pipe back on this weekend. I had removed the entire exhaust system for all new gaskets and hardware as it was leaking pretty bad. I had also gotten the 2-piece xover from Lindsey. The bottom section of the xover pipe was the last piece of the exhaust I tried to put on.

That was a mistake. First off, the center exhaust headers did not line up exactly. Not a hard fix, just loosened and retorqued those four nuts.

But I had to remove the wastegate inlet pipe to slide the xover pipe in. However, I cannot get it perfectly aligned and can only get one stud back in the inlet pipe.

It seems I have to at least loosen, if not remove, much of the waste gate and kind of start over from that point back at the exhaust.

However, running the car like this, with everything sort of 'mostly' connected, sure it's leaking exhaust a bit, but no gaping holes.... I'm not getting any boost. It's still on jack stands but revving the engine I can only get the gauge to 1bar.

I have just remounted the turbo after sending it out for servicing. I had also just rebuilt the throttle body and maybe the TPS isn't lined up right.

Anyway, I know it's dumb to ask right now because the waste gate is a mess and barely connected and that's my project next weekend but... shouldn't I be getting something? Is there an easy way I can rule out some other things like the TPS?

Also, any tips on what order to install xover, waste gate, other pipes would be greatly appreciated.
Old 10-01-2012, 09:34 PM
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odb812
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You're not going to get any boost revving the car in neutral. The engine needs to be under load to build boost. I'm definitely not recommending you put the car in gear while it's on jack stands and try that way, that would be extremely unsafe in most circumstances.

As for the exhaust, what I generally do is just get all of the nuts and bolts on and engaging a few threads before I tighten everything down. Then I make a few passes over each of them, tightening them a little more each time until they are all tight. Sometimes you have to loosen up portions of the exhaust that you otherwise would not have to touch. It is very important that you get each of the connections sealed properly, close enough is not going to cut it on these cars.

Also, it sounds like you are using the factory boost gauge, which is atmospheric. That means when you see 1 bar, you're actually at 0psi boost/vacuum. Everything below 1 bar is in the vacuum. The atmosphere accounts for about 1 bar of ambient pressure at sea level.
Old 10-01-2012, 09:51 PM
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Oh it won't boost without load? Huh, I guess I never knew that. How does it know, is it as simple as a switch in the shifter, or does the computer work it out somehow?

Well that's promising news anyhow. I feel a lot better knowing that it's possibly not completely ruined after me trying to 'fix' it

Yeah, it took me a year of ownership to figure out the 1 bar thing. I have a digital boost gauge waiting to be installed soon so I can get some more reliable numbers.

Speaking of gauges, I also just installed a fuel pressure gauge and it's reading about 22PSI which seems way on the low side. I'm still working on getting the air fuel gauge connected as well. Weird, it always smells like its running so rich. That's below stock pressure I think. This has a 3.0Bar adjustable regulator but I've never messed with it. I'm also working on a knock counter just to figure out where this thing is at.

Anyway, still just happy it runs and trying to burn the 6 months of cobwebs out of it right now. Dumped some fresh gas in so shes running a lot less rough. Just want to hear that turbo spin though.

Don't want to get it off the jack stands until I get that wastegate sorted though. Takes a day just to get it up with as much clearance as I have right now, which is barely enough to work
Old 10-01-2012, 09:55 PM
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Black51
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Not trying to be a d!i#k, but it sounds like you might have gotten in a little over your head. The exhaust system is by no means a walk in the park on these cars, as I'm sure you've come to realize.

Having said that, if you've gotten the car to the point where it will run, I would just take it to a mechanic shop and have them finish it up for you. Shouldn't cost too much. (Famous last words...)
Old 10-01-2012, 10:14 PM
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I'm constantly in over my head but I've got to learn to do it sometime.
Old 10-02-2012, 01:04 AM
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Oh. I see. You legitimately need load for the boost to work. Not a matter of computers or wiring or anything. Huh, interesting to read up on.
Old 10-02-2012, 01:31 AM
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Well as long as your already realize this, then you're a certified backyard mechanic!!
Old 10-02-2012, 09:14 AM
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Apprentice backyard mechanic. A few more years and a couple hundred dollars in more wobble extensions and I'll make the certification



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