Cycling valve delete?
#1
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I'm getting a stand alone computer in my 951. Having issues with heavy start interference and the new computer will use à different sensor etc..
But since I'm getting à map sensor in stead of the old unit and getting dis ignition what to do with THE cycling valve.
Will it be functional with my new computer or not of any use? I have à manual boost control from lindsey.
How do i bypass the valve? Vacuüm diagram?
Thanks
But since I'm getting à map sensor in stead of the old unit and getting dis ignition what to do with THE cycling valve.
Will it be functional with my new computer or not of any use? I have à manual boost control from lindsey.
How do i bypass the valve? Vacuüm diagram?
Thanks
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#2
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You will want to remove the archaic CV by disconnecting all the lines off it and plugging the J boot. Have you already installed the MBC? If so than once you remove the extra lines, cap the j boot, and remove the electrical connector off the cycling valve, you are done. You can remove the CV or simply leave it in there with nothing hooked up to it.
#3
Racer
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I have a lindsey racing mbe but it is now routed so that it uses the cv. I found à lot of old topics but no pics. Is it possible to delete those small hard lines? I did the venturi delete last year.
Can i just connect the mbe with one line from the wastegate and one line to the banjo bolt? Then plug of j boot line and leave the cycling valve as is?
Can i just connect the mbe with one line from the wastegate and one line to the banjo bolt? Then plug of j boot line and leave the cycling valve as is?
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Yes that is how it is supposed to be set up. Disconnect the electrical connector off the CV. Also make sure you got the lines to the MBC set up correctly. I'm assuming your going to be running it in single port mode? start low and make very slow adjustments, at first that black **** wont do much until its turned seemingly almost all the way open, but once you find the sweet spot, small changes make big changes to boost pressure. Dont blow a headgasket
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#6
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Could i use a boostenhancer instead of the boostcontrol? so, one end to banjo bolt one end to wastegate?
or should i use the cycling valve untill i get the mbc?
If i'm right it would be the same result as à straight line from wastegate to banjo bolt?
or should i use the cycling valve untill i get the mbc?
If i'm right it would be the same result as à straight line from wastegate to banjo bolt?
Last edited by pa951; 09-12-2012 at 03:25 PM.
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#8
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No the boost enhancer is NOT a boost controller, and you shouldn't use them together either. Run a line from the banjo to the controller, and another line from the controller to the wastegate. If I were you I would mount that black **** inside the car.
You do have a black **** style boost controller and NOT a boost enhancer, right?
You do have a black **** style boost controller and NOT a boost enhancer, right?
#9
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No, i have à boost enhancer. Guess that i'dd best buy a boost control. I once read à topic in which one used the boost enhancer without a cycling valve but can't find it.
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I wouldnt recommend that. The purpose of the boost enhancer is simply to let the boost come in a bit earlier by letting no signal to the wastegate at all until a certain preset boost was reached. it is not, however, a good boost controller and its really only to be used with the cycling valve. yes, you need a controller, and ditch the Boost enhancer.