Howellls2

Racers edge koni coilovers, 550/650 lbs , no torsion bars, 70% track 30% street. 18 in rims. 245 front, 285 rear. r compund. What alignment specs should I go with?? Might not mater but, it's and LS2 conversion.
Thanks,
Howie

TonyG

The engine is irrelevant.

What is relevant is if you have all of your suspension supported by spherical/solid bushings or not (And it's sort of an all or nothing thing...). This will affect your suspension alignment settings.

And if you don't... you really should because it makes a huge difference on a track car with big sticky rubber.


TonyG

Howellls2

I know I should but it's not in the cards right now. Assuming rubber bushings, where should I start?

Howellls2

Oh well it does camber plates, So I guess that ruber is out.

TonyG

Toe: I would add 1/16" additional toe in to what ever the factory toe settings are.

Caster: Get as much caster on the front as you can so long as it's exactly equal left to right. You might be able to slide your camber plates backwards (depending on the brand) at the shock tower. Look from inside the wheel well to see if they are slotted in that direction. If so, loosen and slide all the way back before you align the car.

Front Camber: You will now have two places to adjust camber. 1) at the factory location at the bottom of the strut via slotted holes in the strut and an eccentric bolt and 2) at the top via a camber plate.

Set the each camber plate all they way to the outboard position (towards the side of the car). Then adjust the camber using the bottom of the strut so that you have -1 degree camber. Tighten the bottom of the strut.

Then, with the car on the alignment rack, loosen the camber plates and adjust to -2.5 degrees camber. At this point, mark the camber plate so that you can put it back to this setting. Then slide the camber plate all the way back to the outboard position and tighten.

Now you can slide the struts all the way out and drive around with -1 degree. Then when you go to the track, you can easily dial the -2.5 degrees, then put it back to -1 degree for the drive home.

Rear Camber: Set to -1.75 degrees.

You need to set the camber first, then you adjust the toe. You might not be able to get the toe in you need with that much camber using the eccentric bolt tool. In that case, you set the camber then smack the bottom of the control arm where the shock bolt boss is (using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and hammer) to drive the wheel forward (which will give you more toe in than you want). Then you use the eccentric tool to take toe out until you get to the spec you want.



TonyG

TonyG

I'm talking about the bottom A arm bushings, the rear control arm bushing, and spring plate bushing, and the torsion bar carrier bushings.

TonyG

Howellls2

The rear "a arm" bushing is the upgraded less rubber bushing. Otherwise, I have some work to do.


Thanks for the write up. That really helps

Howellls2

On a different topic. I instauled the Turn one power steering pump, the steering is still over boosted. Any tricks for bringing the boost level down? Maybe a Heidts valve?

TonyG

From years on the race track.

The difference in what you can run your toe at with rubber bushings vs solid bushings is huge.

TonyG

Howellls2

Tony..On a different topic. I instauled the Turn one power steering pump, the steering is still over boosted. Any tricks for bringing the boost level down? Maybe a Heidts valve