I have problems, please help
#1
I have problems, please help
Hey guys
So I finally have all the stuff together to rebuild but I have run into a couple of sangs.
First, how do I get the woodruff key out of the crank?
second, I have found some scores on my bores, see pic, I think it may have happened when I wans moving the engine to tdc (not happy) what should I do now, I really want to avoid further work at this point and one day in the not so distant future i'd like to do a 3 liter anyway.
Question is can I get away with this for now, the scratches are not horribly deep but you can deffinately feel them. should I try to smooth them out with some 1200 grit sand paper or let the rings take care of it or is this destined for failure?
Really need help on this one guys
thanks
Kim
So I finally have all the stuff together to rebuild but I have run into a couple of sangs.
First, how do I get the woodruff key out of the crank?
second, I have found some scores on my bores, see pic, I think it may have happened when I wans moving the engine to tdc (not happy) what should I do now, I really want to avoid further work at this point and one day in the not so distant future i'd like to do a 3 liter anyway.
Question is can I get away with this for now, the scratches are not horribly deep but you can deffinately feel them. should I try to smooth them out with some 1200 grit sand paper or let the rings take care of it or is this destined for failure?
Really need help on this one guys
thanks
Kim
#2
Drifting
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bangkok, Thailand, Milpitas, CA & Weeki Wachee, FL
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Your subject title pretty much sums it up! No, you can't sand your cylinders! From the looks of the picture you will need to start over or have it sleeved. They look extremely deep.
#3
Rennlist Member
Man, they're gouges not a 'couple of sangs'. Sorry but that looks cactus. Maybe you could get it honed but just from the pic they look very deep.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Use a pair of dykes to get the woodruff key out, you can leverage it against the crank snout.
Personally i would just leave the bores alone and run it, especially if you are planning for this to be temporary. Nothing you can do short of honing the block which is a bit of work to do correctly.. mostly finding someone with the capability and the equipment.
Personally i would just leave the bores alone and run it, especially if you are planning for this to be temporary. Nothing you can do short of honing the block which is a bit of work to do correctly.. mostly finding someone with the capability and the equipment.
#5
Drifting
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bangkok, Thailand, Milpitas, CA & Weeki Wachee, FL
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You can't hone those!!! Besides having the Alusil replaced would cost a bomb! I don't think you can run as-is either. Can't is a bit too strong, I should have said you can't cost effectively fix that problem and expect any kind of reliability. Search for a used block, or contact Sid or Chris White.
Last edited by URG8RB8; 08-31-2012 at 09:10 AM. Reason: First statement too strong
#6
I think with those gouges you should start with something a little rougher, like 100 grit, and move up to the 1200. Maybe even finish with some 2000 just to be sure. Lol
It's usually easier to find NA blocks in better condition than turbo's. There's only a few changes between the two and it's pretty easy to change it over.
It's usually easier to find NA blocks in better condition than turbo's. There's only a few changes between the two and it's pretty easy to change it over.
#7
+1. Those are actually large gouges. - One is, the other isn't so bad. I'm so sorry that happened. It has to be fixed, or you will just waste your time putting it back together to run on 3 cylinders and blow tons of smoke, and constantly pressurize oil out of your motor.
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#8
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Something got stuck between the piston and the wall, the piston nor the ring would cause a scratch like that unless the ring is broken, specially when manually cranking the engine.
#9
Ok cool,
They are deep, maybe half a paper thickness!
is it worth bolting the head on then compression testing it.
If I have to buy a new block because it blows smoke then I will but I would like to get it running first.
Luckily I brought the cometic head gasket and a full gasket set from LR so i have a spare HG
do I need a leak down test or compression test?
thanks for your responses guys
Kim
They are deep, maybe half a paper thickness!
is it worth bolting the head on then compression testing it.
If I have to buy a new block because it blows smoke then I will but I would like to get it running first.
Luckily I brought the cometic head gasket and a full gasket set from LR so i have a spare HG
do I need a leak down test or compression test?
thanks for your responses guys
Kim
#13
sorry forget that, I guess your talking about rogue tuning!? and blown 944.
I like those guys they always seem to be adding very constructive content here, I didn't realize they dealt with engine rebuilds too?!
thanks
kim
I like those guys they always seem to be adding very constructive content here, I didn't realize they dealt with engine rebuilds too?!
thanks
kim
#14
Ok results of the leak down test, I only had a hf tester so it's hard to get accurate measurements.
I got between 10 and 20% on all cylinders but 25-30 on cylinder 3 it's still in the green per the tester so we might be good for now.
What do you think
Thanks Kim
I got between 10 and 20% on all cylinders but 25-30 on cylinder 3 it's still in the green per the tester so we might be good for now.
What do you think
Thanks Kim
#15
Rennlist Member
Read thru Blown944's (Sid's) hybrid stroker thread. He will build one of those for you. I'm definitely no expert, but is 25-30% leakdown OK when you start to add boost?