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Help: can't remove valve springs with engine in car

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Old 07-18-2012 | 05:18 PM
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Default Help: can't remove valve springs with engine in car

At my last track day I noticed that on shifting I was leaving small clouds of blue smoke. I knew I had an issue, but after the track day it realy went from bad to worse.

So I decided to change the valve guide seals. But: the two conical "things" holding the springs/valves wont let go.

I have 7bar air pressure in the cylinder, but I just push the whole valve down.
I read somewhere that you can fill the cylinder with rope(!?) but I am not keen on putting anything inside the cylinder. I am not too keen on taking the head off either..

Any good ideas are welcome. So far I have only managed to change on two of the eight valves. These two worked realy easy, but the rest is stuck
Any good tools out there?


Old 07-18-2012 | 05:47 PM
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Normally I will tap the tops of the valves where the keepers are before attempting removal to "unseat" them. Then after reassembly, tap them again to make sure they seated properly again.
Old 07-18-2012 | 07:12 PM
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is that a tap on the valve itself or the springplate?
Old 07-18-2012 | 07:15 PM
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the cup or top hat, use a 24 ish deep socket, a good extension and big hammer. and you mean valve stem seals.
Old 07-18-2012 | 07:35 PM
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Either use the rope, or up the pressure ...
Old 07-18-2012 | 09:05 PM
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Don’t bother.
If you are getting oil from the cylinder head its because of worn guides not bad seals.
951’s that run extended high rpms (over 6k) will wear their guides rapidly.

Replacing the seals won’t really help…..time to pull the head!
Old 07-19-2012 | 01:15 AM
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+1 million
Old 07-19-2012 | 07:28 AM
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Default thx

Thanks guys for good advise.
I will try the tap dance before I pull the head. I really can't up the pressure, since 7bar is all my compressor gives me.

I know if I pull the head, things have a tendency to get out of hands... And I will miss the rest of the season.
Old 07-19-2012 | 09:01 AM
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I made a pry bar that would allow me to compress each valve spring by pushing on the retainer without touching/risking damaging the valve stem. Some keepers were reluctant unsticking from their respective retainer but they eventually came off after several tries, though that was on a rebuilt head with only 18k miles.

Last edited by Thom; 07-19-2012 at 10:37 AM.
Old 07-19-2012 | 10:19 AM
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You need a tool like this - I had all of them done (I was changing a broken spring) in 20 minutes.
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Old 07-19-2012 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Van
You need a tool like this - I had all of them done (I was changing a broken spring) in 20 minutes.
And... GASP.... you used rope...
Old 07-19-2012 | 10:25 AM
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Special German-engineered, soft-fiber, high-temperature, synthetic rope!
Old 07-19-2012 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kghaas
Thanks guys for good advise.
I will try the tap dance before I pull the head. I really can't up the pressure, since 7bar is all my compressor gives me.

I know if I pull the head, things have a tendency to get out of hands... And I will miss the rest of the season.
Get a better compressor, or use rope...

102 PSI in the chamber holding the valves closed, 130 on the spring (and keepers)... slightly stuck keeper and the valve is opening when you compress the spring...

If it were me, I would use the rope... but then I have done it before...
Old 07-19-2012 | 05:42 PM
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Thanks guys for caring
Did the tapping and all let go easily.
Only one seal was firm, and two looked like this:

Looks like i found the reason for the blue smoke....
Hopefully the head can stay on for another year.

New seals are glued and will hopefully stay in place
Old 07-19-2012 | 05:44 PM
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And rope vs compressor: after the tapping, 2 bar was more than sufficient to keep the valves in place


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