Help needed:Problem bleeding slave cyl;
07-21-2012, 09:36 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, my mechanic bled the system in like 5 minutes. He pulled the blue hose and fed fluid directly into it. While I held the line and bottle he bled from the bottom by pushing the nipple in front of the slave. Then placed the blue hose back on once bled.
Anyway while I was having the A/F ratio adjusted remotely by Wayne @TPG (who is extreamly helpful with excellent service) I went on a third short test run and my clutch would not go into gear after stopping to turn around.
I had to turn the car off so I could put the car in gear. Then when I restart with the clutch depressed to get in reverse. Then turn off again and put in 2nd and restart with clutch pressed and limped home.
The clutch feels softer then it did. If I pump the clutch 5-7 times it feels better. I am wondering if I worked out some air bubbles or from being the first time the fluid got to temp. Or if i have a leak allowing air into the system.
I had to rebleed the brakes also. Not sure if this is normal once the system has been opened on both clutch and brakes ( put on big blacks and SS lines).,first time getting to temp, or if I have a leak?
Thanks
Steve
BTW felt real driving the car for the first time in 2.5 yrs.
Anyway while I was having the A/F ratio adjusted remotely by Wayne @TPG (who is extreamly helpful with excellent service) I went on a third short test run and my clutch would not go into gear after stopping to turn around.
I had to turn the car off so I could put the car in gear. Then when I restart with the clutch depressed to get in reverse. Then turn off again and put in 2nd and restart with clutch pressed and limped home.
The clutch feels softer then it did. If I pump the clutch 5-7 times it feels better. I am wondering if I worked out some air bubbles or from being the first time the fluid got to temp. Or if i have a leak allowing air into the system.
I had to rebleed the brakes also. Not sure if this is normal once the system has been opened on both clutch and brakes ( put on big blacks and SS lines).,first time getting to temp, or if I have a leak?
Thanks
Steve
BTW felt real driving the car for the first time in 2.5 yrs.
07-23-2012, 12:10 PM
#17
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Location: Waukesha Wisconsin
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I replaced the clutch master cylinder and had a hard time bleeding the clutch. What finally worked was a MityVac hand-held vacuum pump. I disconected the hard line to the clutch at the junction just in front of the firewall. I then pulled a vacuum through the master cylinder from this line. Reconnected it and then pulled a vacuum through the slave cylinder.
I realized that the new master was pumping air and pulling fluid through the slave was not enough to fill the void.
I realized that the new master was pumping air and pulling fluid through the slave was not enough to fill the void.
07-23-2012, 04:08 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Couple things I've noticed with the Clutch Hydralic system, Master OR Slave failure = replace both, jealiousy seems to be a factor along with newfound pressure issues. Hose is a faith based decision, 10 years of age is my extent.
For those un-cooperative bleed issues, I have resorted to a $5 self-tapping 'Saddle Tap Valve' in the high up hard line where my 'Mity Vac' could do some good. This is adding non-stock hardware to the car, so a last resort. Now days, I'd rather pay for a $50 Motive bleed if general practice fails.
For those un-cooperative bleed issues, I have resorted to a $5 self-tapping 'Saddle Tap Valve' in the high up hard line where my 'Mity Vac' could do some good. This is adding non-stock hardware to the car, so a last resort. Now days, I'd rather pay for a $50 Motive bleed if general practice fails.
