Hmm,well when mine was driving, 3 years ago. The ref wires were replaced with the Lindsey's and the jiggle thing was still needed at random intervals, just once then. I've fired it back up again,this month, to let it idle, still battleing clutch slave issues so it's a none driver but so far no jiggle issues,,,don't really trust it though.

 

Sleeve
http://www.paragon-products.com/Reference_Sensor_Bracket_p/pp944.101.320.00.htm
Claims needed for updated bracket

Bracket
http://www.paragon-products.com/Reference_Sensor_Bracket_p/pp944.101.321.07.htm
Claims sleeve is only needed for up to 85

Worst part is the sleeve is more expensive?
Fielen danke!

 

I had to resort to this the other day. Engine shut off out of nowhere, and found the reference sensor wire had ripped. One of the (3) wires tore completely. I had to tear a piece of my code reader blinker to mend the wires... I also placed a plastic wire tubing between the other two wires as they were making contact and impeding the engine to start.

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...ed1/IMG310.jpg

 

For the first time in 12 years of ownership I had to 'jiggle the wires' to get the car to start over July 4th. With a couple track events coming up I didn't want to risk the car cutting off while at speed. I installed the LR replacement kit and the car ran fine for an entire wet weekend at the track. Definitely worth the peace of mind...

 

Thanks for the links.

I'm still confused. Going from memory, of course, but that bracket doesn't look any different, and I don't see how a starter change would require a different one? And what's "starter kick back"?

Is the "sleeve" a sort of EMI shield or something?

 

How bad is the install on the replacement kit? I've gotta rock the connector jiggle on a much more regular basis than I'd like. Electrical stuff is something that I've never really messed with at all outside of installing some retarded sub-woofers in my 240SX back in high school.

 

Not technically difficult but can be a PITA for 2 reasons:
1) getting the new wires through the firewall grommet and reaching them from the footwell can be a challenge
2) extracting the factory pins from the DME connector. I had one that I farted with for more than a half hour. Others came out easily.

Beyond that, it's a simple plug & play and 1 solder joint job. Lindsey's instructions are pretty good.

 

I had to do similar, one time, in a pinch. I literally stripped the wires and twisted them together like some thug trying to hotwire a car. Worked fine until I was able to do a half decent repair, though obviously a last resort.

 

Well... this is interesting. Out of nowhere, this morning, had to "jiggle the wires" to get the car to start.

Reference sensors are ~3 years old.... guess I'll inspect them this weekend if I have time...

Was this ever considered common back when they were still selling these cars new?

 

Pelican has them. Also, they are the same length as the OEM.

Mine were from 2008. Had to replace what was in there (metal) with these (synthetic).

I also have the Lindsey harness, which apparently was not my issue (ugh!).

Try new sensors first. Much easier to install! also cheaper.

*edit*

They were the BMW ones, let me get you the part#.

12-14-1-710-668-M85

 

Interesting question. I don't know but it seems to be a 951 issue, my 85.5 has been in my extened family since 88... it has never had a Ref sensor issue and still is using the original parts.
The 951 has the Lindsey replacements and still has random jiggle issue's!

 

I think there is a more fundamental issue with this settup. The sensors generate a very low voltage pulse which the DME must read. The contacts in the connector are tin plate. Any resistance in this joint will degrade the signal, perhaps to the point that the DME may not recognize what is seeing. this is sometimes refered to as the "dry circuit condition".

In applications, where they really care, such as medical equipment and aircraft, they would use gold plated contacts here. There is a guy that makes kits for Ferrari's with Motronic systems that substitute gold contacts in the engine sensors and injectors. These have recieved glowing reviews from people who have installed them. One reviewer said his 355 felt like a completely different car. There is also a guy who has built an amplifier circuit to amplify the signal in his 993. Don't know much about it though.

 

That may all be true, but there is no debate that age and heat have degraded, what was otherwise, a well built system. This was not a common issue when this cars came out. This is all about the above two factors. All you have to do is pull the boot back to see it.
All that said, if there is a better replacement option, such as above, then lets talk about that and see if it's something that we cane make work for us.

 

Thanks Ben.

 

So, I have the harness from LR and newish BMW sensors. Everything is in great shape. That said, for the past year I've had to jiggle the connectors together approx once per 8 starts.

I have a suspicion this is a problem with the connectors used on either the LR harness or the BMW sensors. Probably more likely to be the LR harness given the greater likelihood they used Chinese knockoffs.


Has never once impacted my driving and is still more of an annoyance than anything.