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Remove or not to remove engine!

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Old 05-18-2012, 10:03 AM
  #16  
F18Rep
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He says to put the engine on the ground, then use the engine hoist to lift the front of the car from the tow points on the frame rails, then slide the engine out from a wheel well (with a shock/hub removed).
Yea, but why pull the shock/hub? Did this little dance just yesterday - this is the going-in sequence, engine on a dolly (screw that carpet thing) and car is lifted with the crane...Bruce







PS... pulled for motor mounts, clutch, balance shaft seals, AOS seals, front & rear main seals & Mtune. Kudos to Paragon & 944Online for parts.
Old 05-18-2012, 05:56 PM
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944hal
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+1 That's exactly how I did my last one. I used the screw in tow hook on the front as the pick up point for the lift. The dolly works great, if you have one. Carpet or corrugated sheet works OK as an alternative. I had a dolly the last time.
Old 05-18-2012, 06:25 PM
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67King
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Originally Posted by 944hal
I'm in the middle of a clutch job on an S2. I started from the back and am working my way forward. I've not dropped the engine in an S2, but I've dropped a bunch of 951 motors. If I had to do this again, I'd drop the motor in a heartbeat. I really only did it this way because I wanted to see if it was any easier. NOT!
My memory is foggy, but have any of the times we have done this been by pulling the engine out while the transmission was still in?

Reason I ask is that I pulled the engine in the track car before I took it down to Anders. Granted, I pulled it from the top (never, again) since I was afraid there may be some residual stress that would be released by unbolting the crossmember (which had to be done, anyway). But even with nothing left on the car that wasn't welded in place, it was very difficult for me to pull the engine forward enough for the bell to clear the driveshaft.
Old 05-18-2012, 09:00 PM
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michael2e
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I didnt notice if you stated the mileage but if its getting up there then I'd consider doing the oil pan gasket, front seals and probably more that I cant think of which is a lot of up and down working from under the car. If you are retired or can devote time to it I would think pulling it would be easier with the added benefit that you really get to look over the engine and learn about it
Old 05-19-2012, 12:58 AM
  #20  
FRporscheman
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I used layers of cardboard instead of a dolly. I have a few dollies, but I didn't want to jack the car up any higher than was necessary to barely slide the engine under the frame rail. Why? 1. I was working in my driveway, and I didn't want to make a "scene" by jacking the car up to heaven, and 2. since I didn't jack up the rear of the car (see reason 1), if I jacked up the front any higher, the rear bumper would have hit the ground.

I took out the shock because it was only 6 bolts (4 on top, and the 2 for the caliper), and I didn't want to tweak that strut mount area. Plus, it made a lot of room.
Old 05-19-2012, 08:13 AM
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Gerd
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Michael2e the car has 68,000 miles on it and the only leak it has is from the power steering pump which was replaced three years ago. I will look in those areas and most like replace those gaskets. Thank you all for all the good information.
Old 05-20-2012, 07:35 PM
  #22  
944hal
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I've always removed the radiator and bottom cross piece. That leaves plenty of room to pull the engine forward without having to mess with moving the tranny or torque tube.



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