951 oil cooler leak
#1
951 oil cooler leak
I have just reassembled my 88 951 afer an engine rebuild, and the top fitting on the oil cooler is dripping. I loosened it, tightened it a bit, tightened it a lot... stilll drips. it was fine before it was 'disturbed'. And no it is not x-threaded. it is leaking between the sleeve and the oil cooler body not the line itself.
Should there be any thread sealant on this? (I think not)
A crush washer? (didn't have one before)
Is it possible (just has this thought) that I have to loosen the bracket that supports the metal line between the cooler and the oil line, and then tighten the line, and finally retighten the bracket? I could see the bracket potentially causing an alignment problem with the fitting.
So any suggestions? I really don't want to drain the oil and remove the cooler if at all possible.
TIA
Paul
Should there be any thread sealant on this? (I think not)
A crush washer? (didn't have one before)
Is it possible (just has this thought) that I have to loosen the bracket that supports the metal line between the cooler and the oil line, and then tighten the line, and finally retighten the bracket? I could see the bracket potentially causing an alignment problem with the fitting.
So any suggestions? I really don't want to drain the oil and remove the cooler if at all possible.
TIA
Paul
#5
You have to remove the line tighten the fitting the reattach ( note silver crush washer as mentioned ) also it allot easier when you use the German Thin line wrenches. if removed again you don't have to drain the pan just catch what comes out of the cooler and lines .
#7
problem solved. thanks!
No crush washer on either adaptor fitting when I got the car. doesn't mean there shouldn't be one! I left the lower one alone as it didn't leak. I first tried to loosen the metal lne bracket and retighten and it reallly slowed the leak. So a lesson there. The fitting aligns much better that way. But it still leaked a bit, so I removed the upper fitting and very little oil was lost. maybe a 1/4 cup. I cleaned it up, added a crush washer and reassembled, tightening the line bracket after the line fittings. All good!
One note:
I caught the oil that came out of the line ( remember this is pre-filter oil). i spread it out and examined it with a bright light. It is amazing how much fine metal filings are in the oil of a new engine even after MAYBE 30 minutes of run time. I am rethinking my plan to run 300 miles on break-in oil. I suspect most of the filings will be in the oil at 100 miles. On the other hand I would then only be comfortable running 500 max on the next oil change.
so 100 500 1500 (expensive and a pain) or 300 1500? BTW I am running Joe Gibbs break in, and then swithcing to Joe gibbs racing oil. The car is a street /DE car
Any thoughts on this?
thanks for the quick responses.
No crush washer on either adaptor fitting when I got the car. doesn't mean there shouldn't be one! I left the lower one alone as it didn't leak. I first tried to loosen the metal lne bracket and retighten and it reallly slowed the leak. So a lesson there. The fitting aligns much better that way. But it still leaked a bit, so I removed the upper fitting and very little oil was lost. maybe a 1/4 cup. I cleaned it up, added a crush washer and reassembled, tightening the line bracket after the line fittings. All good!
One note:
I caught the oil that came out of the line ( remember this is pre-filter oil). i spread it out and examined it with a bright light. It is amazing how much fine metal filings are in the oil of a new engine even after MAYBE 30 minutes of run time. I am rethinking my plan to run 300 miles on break-in oil. I suspect most of the filings will be in the oil at 100 miles. On the other hand I would then only be comfortable running 500 max on the next oil change.
so 100 500 1500 (expensive and a pain) or 300 1500? BTW I am running Joe Gibbs break in, and then swithcing to Joe gibbs racing oil. The car is a street /DE car
Any thoughts on this?
thanks for the quick responses.