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Engine Stopped - HELP

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Old 08-20-2012, 11:00 AM
  #46  
racerxrick
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sorr to hear Matt...though glad your making progress!
Old 08-20-2012, 11:28 AM
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KuHL 951
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Originally Posted by zerMATT951
I'm also hoping that my tall 5-ton jack stands will give me enough vertical room to get the motor out. Now I need to find an engine crane and stand...
My 5-ton jack stands were perfect, just be sure and have the rear wheels low enough keeping them just off the ground.

Old 08-20-2012, 11:36 AM
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Tom M'Guinn

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I missed this first time around -- sorry about the motor.

Steve, I always found that getting the rear of the car up was the key to getting more clearance in front. The steeper the angle of the car, the higher the front has to come off the ground to create enough clearance...or am I missing your point?
Old 08-20-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
I missed this first time around -- sorry about the motor.

Steve, I always found that getting the rear of the car up was the key to getting more clearance in front. The steeper the angle of the car, the higher the front has to come off the ground to create enough clearance...or am I missing your point?
I'd have to check my old photos but I had very short stands on the rear that barely cleared the car off the floor and the really tall 5-ton stands in the front. Maybe it was higher in back than I remember. I recall being surprised I could still clear the valence with the X-member attached rolling it on my creeper though.
Old 08-20-2012, 09:21 PM
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zerMATT951
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I hadn't even thought about lifting the rear off the ground, but that makes sense as it will reduce the overall angle while giving maximum clearance up front.

Do you put the rear jack stands under the torsion bar tubes?
Old 08-20-2012, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by zerMATT951
I hadn't even thought about lifting the rear off the ground, but that makes sense as it will reduce the overall angle while giving maximum clearance up front.

Do you put the rear jack stands under the torsion bar tubes?
I should have known, Tom is right again and my memory is getting weak. It looks like I had the rear tires about 5"-6" off the ground. I used both the torsion tube housing (backup only) and more solid support points on the rear trailing arm mounts. At first I was uncomfortable with the car that high but it was rock steady even when muscling the engine around, it didn't even budge. I had to drop mine with the entire pre-muffler exhaust attached due to a rounded nut on the downpipe which made it even more fun. Do yourself a favor and remove the fans and radiator, the IC is fine to leave in place.



Old 08-20-2012, 10:04 PM
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Just remember when lowering engine to have enough chain to sit the engine on the ground or whatever you are going to sit it on. I have used cardboard when I needed the space to clear while on Jack stands. If you have enough room, a moving/piano Dolly works great. You can get those at harbor freight also. Drop the engine on Dolly then you don't have to wrestle with it to get it out from under the car.

You can also use the front tow hook and engine Crane to lift the front of the car to give you a little more room. Make sure not to try this with engine in car.
Old 08-20-2012, 10:54 PM
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I'm pretty sure that pulling the radiator is almost required... I'd recommend pulling the lower core support off too... It gives you a couple more inches when you're trying to get the bell housing past the torque tube.
Old 08-20-2012, 11:16 PM
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Thanks for all the advice guys, it sounds like I'll need all the clearance I can get. I was already planning to pull the fans & radiator, so hopefully I'll have plenty of room to wiggle it out.

What I'm not sure about is the wiring harness. It seems easy enough to disconnect everything from the engine and lower it out and away from the harness, but Clark's says to disconnect the harness at the DME/KLR and pull them through the firewall. Is there any benefit to pulling that out of the car, or can I just flop everything up and out-of-the-way while I drop the motor?
Old 08-20-2012, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by zerMATT951
Thanks for all the advice guys, it sounds like I'll need all the clearance I can get. I was already planning to pull the fans & radiator, so hopefully I'll have plenty of room to wiggle it out.

What I'm not sure about is the wiring harness. It seems easy enough to disconnect everything from the engine and lower it out and away from the harness, but Clark's says to disconnect the harness at the DME/KLR and pull them through the firewall. Is there any benefit to pulling that out of the car, or can I just flop everything up and out-of-the-way while I drop the motor?
Disconnect all the big wiring at the DME/KLR and pull it out through the rubber booted hole in the firewall. There are a few sensor wires that you need to disconnect from the engine and tag for reference but the big harness' go out with the engine. Here's a pic of the wiring bundled up and ready to drop with the engine. I feel it's easiest to remove the harness while the engine is on a stand and it helps prevents damage to wiring.

Old 08-21-2012, 12:03 AM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by zerMATT951
Thanks for all the advice guys, it sounds like I'll need all the clearance I can get. I was already planning to pull the fans & radiator, so hopefully I'll have plenty of room to wiggle it out.

What I'm not sure about is the wiring harness. It seems easy enough to disconnect everything from the engine and lower it out and away from the harness, but Clark's says to disconnect the harness at the DME/KLR and pull them through the firewall. Is there any benefit to pulling that out of the car, or can I just flop everything up and out-of-the-way while I drop the motor?
That's what I did too with the harness -- disconnected the various harness connectors in the engine bay and once the motor was out I pulled the harness out. Just much easier to get access that way for the size-challenged. I put the rear tires on big ramps as I usually do, by jacking the car and sliding the ramps under the rears. When I have to, I use jack stands like Steve shows above, but the ramps were plenty for pulling the motor for me.
Old 08-21-2012, 12:14 AM
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refresh951
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Originally Posted by jlturpin
You can also use the front tow hook and engine Crane to lift the front of the car to give you a little more room. Make sure not to try this with engine in car.
+1
Old 08-21-2012, 12:21 AM
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does anybody has a procedure like how to drop the engine under 3 hours?
Old 08-21-2012, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by lart951
does anybody has a procedure like how to drop the engine under 3 hours?
I suggest you ask Josh B
Old 08-21-2012, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by refresh951
Better talk with Josh B
Yeah, a party, lol. Seriously I can do a write up probably better than clark's but my English is not that good.


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