I just did a bunch of reading and asking around on the Raceware/ARP studs and what I've come up with is: In short - They're a waste of money for a relatively low-hp engine. Furthermore, I spoke with a very reputable source, whom I'll respect and not quote by name in public, but trust me - a very reputable source -who stated that the Raceware head studs had caused issues with crushing head gaskets due to the fact that they don't stretch to accommodate for block and head expansion through heat cycles. I've heard no such damning statement about ARP, but ARP is back-ordered on 944 head studs until at least the end of November.

Personally, I'll be sticking with stockers.

 

That's my thinking too. The proximity, expertise, selection, ability, and fair pricing has always kept my business with either Zim's (local) or LR (not far).

That's what I'm unsure of... I need to ask around before I would be comfortable trusting anyone local to do the machine work and know that I won't have to open the motor again in a very long time. LR just seems like the safe option.

Has anyone ever compared LR machine work prices (posted on their website) to local shops with 944 experience?

 

If not on your list, you'll probably want to have the head serviced and surfaced. A good local shop can do that no problem.

If you hone the block, you want to find a place with the right equipment and some experience with 944 blocks. Do your cylinders need machining? Keep in mind that virtually any real honing will call for new (oversized) pistons and rings, and there is always some risk about not getting those tolerances correct and ending up with a pile of scrap metal. If the pistons and clyinders are in good shape, the simplest thing to do would be to replace the crank/rod/bearings, and move on. I've heard of shops doing "puff" honing on these blocks (basically a final repolish of the cylinder without removing much/any measurable material). If your cylinders are good enough to get away with that, however, opinions vary whether that type of honing is of any real use. Of course, if you have lots of miles on the motor or the cylinders are scored, then you'll obviously want to fix that (e.g., machine the block and install new pistons) while you're in there.

Duffin Machine is in Texas somewhere and some folks here have used them with good success in the past (e.g. Ski). You might look into them.

350rwhp requires a stronger than stock clutch, FYI, so keep that in mind as you plan the project. A KEP pressure plate will do the trick.

Raceware/ARP and widefire are nice, but stock studs are plenty strong enough for what you're doing.

 

Here's a picture of the crank I have, and a closer pic of the rear main area. The journals all "look" good, though the rear main journal has some grooves you can feel. I have to say, it's probably fine especially after being polished, but with 2.5 cranks as cheap and plentiful as they are I'm not sure I'd take the risk. RMS leaks are a bummer.... You are still welcome to it. I ran out of time tonight, but will look tomorrow night at the other crank I have and see if it is better. As I mentioned, I never really looked very closely at either of them, since I was yanking them out to make 3 liter motors from the blocks. Stay tuned....

In the meantime, post a pic of your dead rod with casting/part number showing, and I'll see if I have a match...

 

If i remember right, this is a sleeve that can be pressed on over the RMS journal so you dont need to worry about the groove.

Edit -

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118076

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=257745

Never tried one of these but might be worth a shot.

Also i would have the rods resized while you have all the other work done. Read it on here a while ago but someone mentioned that many of the rods checked were right at the limit of tolerance; probably another reason rod bearings are such an issue on these cars.

 

Thanks for checking, Tom, and let me know if you think either crank would be a good candidate. I'll pull the rod and snap some pics as soon as I can, but it would be late Sunday at the earliest - I'm traveling for work until then. Sure was purdy in Charlotte today

 

Got my fresh short block back from the machine shop last week... now I need to try to find time to start bolting everything back on!

 

When get to accessories and various plumbing would be glad to come over and help / observe. Been too busy with other stuff and at that spot for almost a year as you know. With last off to college next week I'm on it. A little help or observe time would sort of get me sorted out.

 

Which portions of the re-assembly are you most interested in? My work sessions are typically sporadic, but if I know what you would like to see, I can definitely give you a few days warning before I tackle certain areas.

 

Motor in and bolted up. Accessories and plumbing. Not saying not willing to help on the other stuff mind you but when get to where I am right now. Between you and your bro's car you have done the loose stuff a few times lately....

 

Hmm... the only thing that won't be installed when I slide the motor in will be the intake manifold and possibly the electric water pump and alternator. everything else goes on first before the motor is raised into place.

I can let you know when you can come to take a look just before the motor goes in. Would that help, or do you want to take a look after it's in place before I put the intake back on?

 

So I'm a bit bummer after spending $2k on this budget short block rebuild that was supposed to include an inspection, and I'm part-way through my re-assembly.

This is the lower-front engine mount boss on the driver's side:

 

i would have some one weld it up and not thing twice about it.

 

Wow. So sorry to hear that! I hope whoever is responsible takes care of you. That's a major bummer!

 

I'm going to assume that to weld that properly, the pan has to come off, right?