bumper87

ok well then i need a WB lol. thanks for the info guys. Am i able to just disconnect the ARM1 and leave it at that. Then hook up a wideband and leave the wires from the ARM1 loose out of the way?

Tom M'Guinn

Just be sure to tape off the wires that were going to the arm1. In addition to shorting the power line and blowing a fuse, you would not want the o2 sensor wire to hit a grounded point and screw up the closed loop reading to your dme.

CLO90

Hello everyone I am new to the forum ... I know that a discussion old but maybe someone can help me ... I have to mount "split second arc 2" JEEP WRANGLER TJ but having removed the arc from 2 other cars do not know how to connect. someone has a wiring diagram? Thanks in advance.

reno808

lol why not just search for a wiring diagram? every car is different most certainly a Jeep Wrangler. Why would you want to wire in a split second to a Jeep. There are other new things that are far better.

Tom M'Guinn

The maker of those units, Split Second, has diagrams and info on its website...
https://splitsec.com/

TonyG

Check this out

http://www.tonygarcia.org/arc2/

This is for a 951.

But the wiring is essentially the same for all cars. You intercept the signal from the MAF and run it into the arc2. The out of the arc2 back to the ecu.


And I don't know why people constantly knock the arc2. I worked great for me for many years. It does exactly what it's supposed to do.

TonyG

Naplesguy06

Thanks to you guys here with the beards of knowledge I can proceed with some sort of understanding with this archaic tuning setup. I have the same split second ARC2, Huntley Maf and Arm1,Godzilla BOV and Deltat Gtae from turbonetics- pre cheap TIAL days. Whereas, My plan is a simple MBC, Adjustable FPR, Huntley 952 Chips and a full fabspeed 3" exhaust without cats.I would like to raise the boost to a conservative 15 psi and leave it there,I dont need my tires spinning in all gears and I dont think Porsche engineers would do that either.. I am in south Florida and the ambient average temps here range from a low of 40 in the winter to 98 in the summer,the replies over the years that the Huntley MAF stage3/4 and the ARC2 does not have the ability to compensate for variances in temperature and altitude concerns me,what if I want to drive to Atlanta from my home at sea level? will I have trouble>?

Anyways, I do have a nice wide band 02 thanks to Lart and I will not be depending on the KIT CAR LED crap of the ARM1,it looks neat with its Christmas light effect but I want real numbers of my readings not just signal colors. And like Lart put it so well,He has only parted out one car that had a wide band compared to several with the narrow band when the car was modified.
I am usually broke after paying our bills and being a wiser middle aged man with a wife kids Ive come to the decisions that my cars are not science experiments and I am not pissing away money on tuners,mechanical issues and drama on a car that I could sell for 10k on a good day without the mods and even less with them because folks dont want modded 951 cars they want stock.I have a 951 here in Naples with 70k in engine upgrades from powerhaus and all this MAF crap with aftermarket stuff galore and the guy cant get 12k for the car running perfect,folks look at it as an opened up popped cherry, if this setup isn't tried and true please let me know so I don't ruin my car. Ile just re sell it all on ebay and keep it stock.Thanks