Steve113

Mine used to back out after every race. I now use Stage 8 and they are amazing.

Griffin951

You mean like my tires and rims? If thats what you mean then no I don't.

Van

Lug nuts should be torqued to 96 foot lbs. Over-tightening can lead to warped rotors (this was a big problem on Supras); and, of course, under-tightening can lead to them loosening.

You have a performance automobile there, not a farm tractor.

carlege

Then say hello to Lart or Damiza for me when you get done dealing with them.

Griffin951

Is there a list or chart anywhere that will tell me what bolts need to be at a certain
ft lb?

fortysixandtwo

I'd use a torque wrench on a farm tractor too.

Pick up a Haynes manual at the local auto parts store. Most of them have had the 944 volume, when I looked. You can also search for a link to download the factory work shop manual, but the Haynes manual will get you 98% of what you need.

Griffin951

I have a Haynes manuel guess I just never looked

acorad

I had a problem with CV bolts backing out too. Turns out I was using my inch-lb torque wrench instead of my ft-lb. Doh!

racerxrick

That's kinda funny...but not fun right! I didn't say that to be a smart ***. And in the back of my mind I thought I had heard they were toruque to yield. Regardless I had some loosen on me and two broke. I replaced all bolts on both sides. Cleaned the threads of course and used loc-tite. I also used star washers.

In all fairness I have been considering replacing with better hardware and I like the lock washers.

I need to inspect how that has held up and go from there.

Good luck.

Bri Bro

With stock bolts use Q tips soaked in brake cleaner to get out all the grease, then locktite blue the threads and torque to 30 ft lbs.

Or use these:
http://garage.ideola.com/prod-Stage8-GB.html

fortysixandtwo

The torque specs are spread throughout the manual. Some are in the general maintenance sections, other are typically found at the beginning of each chapter.

TonyG

I use grade 10.9 standard non-stretch allen bolts.

You have to make sure the holes are clean of grease when you stick the bolts through.

Use brake cleaner to clean the holes as well as the stub axle holes.

Push the bolt in and pull it out and make sure no grease is on the bolt.

Off of memory, I think I torque them to 38ft/lbs.

Then red locktight it and torque to spec.

Then I take a Sharpie marker and make a line on SIDE of the bolt head so I can quickly look to see if the bolts have loosened without having to stick a wrench on it.

But if it's clean, red lock tighted, and torqued to spec, they won't come loose.

TonyG

Grandpa#3

I am surprised that you have not used Clark's garage.com for your DIY maintenance. Check out the link below and read through it. Near the end will give you the proper torque value.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-01.htm

Cheers,
Larry

Tom M'Guinn

Just to level set a bit, almost every bolt on the car has a specific torque spec from Porsche. You can find them listed in the factory service manuals, or the "tech spec book" or online at places like www.clarks-garage.com The axle bolts actually call for 30 ft. lbs. each, which is much tighter than other bolts the same size -- and probably tighter than "feels" right. In addition to the tips others have given you, it is important to torque the bolts in stages and in a star pattern -- this keeps the clamping force equal and prevents bolts from loosening as you tighten others. I tighten mine in 3 steps. First I go to 10 ft. lbs. on all the bolts, then 20, then 30. Each round, do them in a star sequence -- not in order. If the axle were the face of the clock, tighten the 10 o'clock bolt first, then 2 o'clock, then 6, then 12, 4, 8. I've never had them back out when using this approach (knock on wood).

951Saga

Finally, thank you Tom!

Why 31 posts into this thread before these most important steps are revealed?

I don’t clean grease from threads or use locktite and have never had these bolts back out on any front or rear wheel drive car. Mostly feel lucky if I don’t strip the heads out when removing them, they are all still tight from being torqued correctly.

At a minimum two torque wrenches are required to cover most torque ranges on cars.
For the rear axel assembly on this car the range is from 7ftlb (brake shield bolt) to 368ftlb (bearing hub nut). I have three wrenches and my strongest one only makes 250ftlb, so I’ll stop by the Freightliner garage for the final torque on the rear axel hub nut when I change those bearings.

Turning bolts on these cars without using a torque wrench is like putting air in your tires without using a pressure gauge, eventually something is going to fail.

I’m sure some seasoned mechanics would say they have calibrated wrenching strength, but most of us do not. Why guess at a task that is so important?