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Old 04-04-2012, 09:46 AM
  #46  
LuigiVampa
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Originally Posted by robstah View Post
Both you and Travis are almost to the point of fear mongering. If you actually had some form of proof to your "claymore" nonsense, then this wouldn't be an issue and I and many others would move on. The fact that your statement is solely based off of speculation is why I almost want to quit posting on here. Please do yourself a favor and read the thread again. I pointed out the issues that need to be dealt with before even running new axles, reduced angle or not.

As an update, I have been very successful running these axles on my car. I am fairly aggressive on the street and they are handling the torque of the V8 nicely. When my suspension comes in, I WILL be tracking this car and plan on leaving these axles in.

As also mentioned earlier in this thread, if you are scared like this individual, then pay some extra money and get the stronger ones that xschop provides. Those should be close to bullet proof and are far cheaper than most retailers of these rebuilt and upgraded axles.
Last time I checked this was a forum where everyone could express their views. If you only want to hear your own view send yourself an email.

I appreciate the new information provided on how much the axles will deflect. But I am wondering how you can get an actual number of a car in motion on the track where things tend to move differently than if you just jack up one side of the car. What is the basis for these numbers?

And lastly, I am far from a nay-sayer. If these things work I want to buy them which is why I am posting on this thread! I'd like to hear from someone who has a track car who went out and drove it hard. Driving aggressively on the street is NOT (repeat NOT!) the same thing.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:20 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by LuigiVampa View Post
I appreciate the new information provided on how much the axles will deflect. But I am wondering how you can get an actual number of a car in motion on the track where things tend to move differently than if you just jack up one side of the car. What is the basis for these numbers?
As mentioned in my post, measurements were taken on my lift. The total upward deflection is my best guess, based on the fact that if the wheel moves up more than 2 inches from it's static position, the tire would rub the inside of the fender, which it does not while on track.

To get the greatest upward deflection, you will need to remove the spring and jack the wheel up till you hit the bump stop. This would be the max angle, whether measured on the lift or on the track. Max droop on the lift is the max, the wheel is hanging and it isn't going to go any lower on the track.

My race car is lowered, and hence the +5 degree angle on the axle when the car is just sitting. The more you lower your car, the greater the angle will be. However, I doubt that most daily drivers are lowered more than my race car. I'll measure the angle on my daily driver 968 and see where it's at in the static position.
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:50 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by robstah View Post
The ones I posted are 33 spline. Porsche changed to 25 spline later on down the line. I wouldn't say that would make the axles stronger, but I do feel that Porsche stumbled upon a nice source of axles that were 25 spline and went with it. I'm pretty sure that all models after the 85.5 split should be able to run these axles. Any car that had aluminum trailing arms should be in that category. I will have to research it more, but I am pretty sure any late model can interchange between the 33 spline and 25 spline axles. If you don't mind waiting a week, I'll be back from vacation and can see if I was in fact running a 25 spline before I swapped in these and I will even get measurements just to be sure.

The original reason I ordered these was to swap the new joints over to the old axle shaft, which match the 33 splines. It would have been cheaper to order the whole axles themselves than to order individual joints. The ones partsgeek sent me happened to be the same length as stock, so I just installed them. The axle shafts that come with these are solid, heat treated, and are thicker than stock.

Rob, that'd be great! I am looking to buy some time in May. I am a newbie when it comes to axles/CVs, so I thought the splines referred to the CV 'hooking into' (somehow) the transmission. Thinking about it now, the splines probably just connect to the CV at each end, so the # of splines is irrelevant to whether it will bolt up or not!

I am in the 85.5+ category (89), so I am very interested in this!
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:37 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Lemming View Post
As mentioned in my post, measurements were taken on my lift. The total upward deflection is my best guess, based on the fact that if the wheel moves up more than 2 inches from it's static position, the tire would rub the inside of the fender, which it does not while on track.

To get the greatest upward deflection, you will need to remove the spring and jack the wheel up till you hit the bump stop. This would be the max angle, whether measured on the lift or on the track. Max droop on the lift is the max, the wheel is hanging and it isn't going to go any lower on the track.

My race car is lowered, and hence the +5 degree angle on the axle when the car is just sitting. The more you lower your car, the greater the angle will be. However, I doubt that most daily drivers are lowered more than my race car. I'll measure the angle on my daily driver 968 and see where it's at in the static position.
Good stuff and thanks for the explanation. Sometimes my ADHD gets the better of me and I scan through posts quicker than I should. I can just get a floor jack under my car so your thoughts on this are reassuring.
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:43 PM
  #50  
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I sent this link to TonyG and maybe he will measure his axle deflection. Seems like another renny myth is being busted about the 17* CV's not working on the 944/951 suspension. The spline count has nothing to do with fitment onto the stub shafts. Just like everything else the German makers do with parts interchanging and cost reduction, going to a 25 spline was just an off-the-shelf solution for parts availability from BMW as they had a ton of them with the same Porsche CV Bolt PCD (86mm). As far as the axle shafts holding the V8 torque without sheering, only time and wheel hop will tell.

Textbook....

http://944hybrids.forumotion.com/gal...le-pic_441.htm
http://944hybrids.forumotion.com/gal...le-pic_442.htm
http://944hybrids.forumotion.com/gal...26-pic_444.htm
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:03 PM
  #51  
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Just checked the angle of the axle in my daily driver 968 (stock ride height). The angle is +1, which is 4 degrees less than my lowered race car. YMMV
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:11 PM
  #52  
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Not to side-track too badly but do you guys go with making sure the holes are clean and just torquing to spec, or are you guys using locking bolts to keep the axle from backing out? Links to the latter if that is what is recommended... I am going to go with the Vanagon replacement in May.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:35 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by acorad View Post
Read something recently about a 2012 performance car (P? Ferrari? Corvette? can't remember...) that has two different diameter axles such that they don't "wheel hop" in unison and that that helps save the axles and/or other parts of the driveline as well...
Caddy CTS-V
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:09 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Lemming View Post
I'll throw the axle on the car for the next DE and give it hell for you guys.
When's your next DE?
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:10 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by azbanks View Post
Caddy CTS-V
Thanks!
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:34 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by robstah View Post
Just an update. I have been daily driving with these axles on. They have seen quite a bit of abuse (with the occasional "accidental" slide ) and still remain solid.
So NO issues what so ever? Wow!.. Makes you wonder if the companies sell the same axle under a different part number for our 944's and make all that extra $$ for nothing...? Wouldn't suprise me.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:31 AM
  #57  
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It should surprise if that wasn't happening.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:21 AM
  #58  
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That link doesn't link to the part # quoted (90-6805).

Google works and I see them on amazon and other places. So far I have $75 shipped... is that the best one can do?

*edit*

shipped from rockauto with discount 92015847578143 is $66.67... That's not ominous...

*edit*
63.xx shipped from impartpartsguy... $55 if you order over $149 and get free shipping...
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:47 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Ben951S View Post
That link doesn't link to the part # quoted (90-6805).

Google works and I see them on amazon and other places. So far I have $75 shipped... is that the best one can do?

*edit*

shipped from rockauto with discount 92015847578143 is $66.67... That's not ominous...

*edit*
63.xx shipped from impartpartsguy... $55 if you order over $149 and get free shipping...
Ben,

I had the same confusion - you have to look at the part number in the picture itself.

I just ordered three of these buggers - cheap enough to have a spare for track days. If I am killed by a cloud of shrapnel at the track please someone reply to this thread with "he should have known better".
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:06 AM
  #60  
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Anymore updates, time to replace my cv's pronto!
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