Best engine coolant
#16
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To me the weaknesses in our cooling systems are getting it fully bled, failure of the water pump, and failure of the radiator. Waterless should extend the life of the radiator, and that might make it worth it alone; I'm not sure about the water pump because I don't know what causes them to fail.
They don't say anything about the thermal conduction properties, so I will assume that the operating temperature of the cooling system under load will be the same or higher; it just won't boil. Our fans are temperature actuated, so I think they would operate just as much unless you change the setpoints somehow.
Who has actually used this in a 951?
#17
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Porsche coolant. We only use OEM coolant when available for most all the European cars we work on. The additives in conventional coolant is much different than that of OEM and may lead to premature failure on cooling system components.
#18
Drifting
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I have never heard of this, and it sounds interesting.
To me the weaknesses in our cooling systems are getting it fully bled, failure of the water pump, and failure of the radiator. Waterless should extend the life of the radiator, and that might make it worth it alone; I'm not sure about the water pump because I don't know what causes them to fail.
They don't say anything about the thermal conduction properties, so I will assume that the operating temperature of the cooling system under load will be the same or higher; it just won't boil. Our fans are temperature actuated, so I think they would operate just as much unless you change the setpoints somehow.
Who has actually used this in a 951?
To me the weaknesses in our cooling systems are getting it fully bled, failure of the water pump, and failure of the radiator. Waterless should extend the life of the radiator, and that might make it worth it alone; I'm not sure about the water pump because I don't know what causes them to fail.
They don't say anything about the thermal conduction properties, so I will assume that the operating temperature of the cooling system under load will be the same or higher; it just won't boil. Our fans are temperature actuated, so I think they would operate just as much unless you change the setpoints somehow.
Who has actually used this in a 951?
#19
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Hey George...can I assume you like it?
It sounds very interesting to me as well. What was the procedure of swapping over? I watched the video with Jay and was curious how you could lower the pressure of the system and if that was indeed a plus.
I'm a firm believer that the "latest / greatest" is definitely worth exploring even for a 23-yr-old car...
It sounds very interesting to me as well. What was the procedure of swapping over? I watched the video with Jay and was curious how you could lower the pressure of the system and if that was indeed a plus.
I'm a firm believer that the "latest / greatest" is definitely worth exploring even for a 23-yr-old car...
#20
Drifting
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Hey George...can I assume you like it?
It sounds very interesting to me as well. What was the procedure of swapping over? I watched the video with Jay and was curious how you could lower the pressure of the system and if that was indeed a plus.
I'm a firm believer that the "latest / greatest" is definitely worth exploring even for a 23-yr-old car...
It sounds very interesting to me as well. What was the procedure of swapping over? I watched the video with Jay and was curious how you could lower the pressure of the system and if that was indeed a plus.
I'm a firm believer that the "latest / greatest" is definitely worth exploring even for a 23-yr-old car...
Evans coolant is waterless. Liquid state, but no water? Lava flows and has no H20.
I use Evans coolant in my quads, Duramax, and my 951. My daily driven cars are still using the cheap stuff without issues. Next flush, I'll be using Evans.
Go to their website to know how to flush your system to allow their product to work as intended. You need to purchase their engine flush prior to the conversion.
#21
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Evans is great but it does have downsides.
1) Cost (approx $40/gal)
2) Does evaporate so if you spill it then youll be wiping it up. The puddle will stay on the floor a long time.
3) Must not put water in it
4) Slippery as hell, even the puddle on the floor.
I would recommend installing some of the rad and block draining kits. I installed ball valves and hoses on mine so that I could drain the Evans neatly. At $40/gal you dont want to spill any.
1) Cost (approx $40/gal)
2) Does evaporate so if you spill it then youll be wiping it up. The puddle will stay on the floor a long time.
3) Must not put water in it
4) Slippery as hell, even the puddle on the floor.
I would recommend installing some of the rad and block draining kits. I installed ball valves and hoses on mine so that I could drain the Evans neatly. At $40/gal you dont want to spill any.
#22
Drifting
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Evans is great but it does have downsides.
1) Cost (approx $40/gal)
2) Does evaporate so if you spill it then youll be wiping it up. The puddle will stay on the floor a long time.
3) Must not put water in it
4) Slippery as hell, even the puddle on the floor.
I would recommend installing some of the rad and block draining kits. I installed ball valves and hoses on mine so that I could drain the Evans neatly. At $40/gal you dont want to spill any.
1) Cost (approx $40/gal)
2) Does evaporate so if you spill it then youll be wiping it up. The puddle will stay on the floor a long time.
3) Must not put water in it
4) Slippery as hell, even the puddle on the floor.
I would recommend installing some of the rad and block draining kits. I installed ball valves and hoses on mine so that I could drain the Evans neatly. At $40/gal you dont want to spill any.
#23
Three Wheelin'
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I really don't see an advantage of running this coolant over generic stuff. You even said it George; you haven't had any problems with "cheap stuff" on your daily's. Why would you switch then?? Makes no sense to me.
And what does "run more efficient" mean? Is it going top have more HP, or live a longer life? If these cars have already survived for 26 years on "cheap stuff", I don't see a problem with continuing that way.
All it sounds like to me with running Evans is guys are just spending more money on modern coolant just because they can. Doesn't sound like it's gonna do anything better than cheap stuff, except cost a lot more money.
Although, if you could run it on the track while retaining the stock cooling system, then there would be some kind of advantage of running this stuff. That would save a lot on upgrading the rad. But that is moot, since the OP says his car is street driven anyway.
And what does "run more efficient" mean? Is it going top have more HP, or live a longer life? If these cars have already survived for 26 years on "cheap stuff", I don't see a problem with continuing that way.
All it sounds like to me with running Evans is guys are just spending more money on modern coolant just because they can. Doesn't sound like it's gonna do anything better than cheap stuff, except cost a lot more money.
Although, if you could run it on the track while retaining the stock cooling system, then there would be some kind of advantage of running this stuff. That would save a lot on upgrading the rad. But that is moot, since the OP says his car is street driven anyway.
#24
Drifting
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I really don't see an advantage of running this coolant over generic stuff. You even said it George; you haven't had any problems with "cheap stuff" on your daily's. Why would you switch then?? Makes no sense to me.
And what does "run more efficient" mean? Is it going top have more HP, or live a longer life? If these cars have already survived for 26 years on "cheap stuff", I don't see a problem with continuing that way.
All it sounds like to me with running Evans is guys are just spending more money on modern coolant just because they can. Doesn't sound like it's gonna do anything better than cheap stuff, except cost a lot more money.
Although, if you could run it on the track while retaining the stock cooling system, then there would be some kind of advantage of running this stuff. That would save a lot on upgrading the rad. But that is moot, since the OP says his car is street driven anyway.
And what does "run more efficient" mean? Is it going top have more HP, or live a longer life? If these cars have already survived for 26 years on "cheap stuff", I don't see a problem with continuing that way.
All it sounds like to me with running Evans is guys are just spending more money on modern coolant just because they can. Doesn't sound like it's gonna do anything better than cheap stuff, except cost a lot more money.
Although, if you could run it on the track while retaining the stock cooling system, then there would be some kind of advantage of running this stuff. That would save a lot on upgrading the rad. But that is moot, since the OP says his car is street driven anyway.
When I post here, my intent is to help others interested knowing what I've learned since modding these cars for over 18 years.
LR and prior folks made a steam vent. Steam is derived from BOILING water. The 944 turbo motor was designed to run with modest boost, we all know the original 2.5 was designed to run under 12ps.
This engine was never supposed to realize combustion pressure like what we are currently running with simple chips, MAF's and other mods on a stock block.
Since I've owned and modded three of these cars, and owned many other sports cars over the years, I've realized these motors have some inherent flaws, and traits that I've grown to love. Trust me, my favorite "fun" surprise sports car is the 951.
Our heads were not designed to flow enough water and air to supply sufficient cooling to allow 125hp per liter without issues.
Having a coolant that doesn't create steam makes sence to me. The additional ability to have less pressure within my coolant system is part of my current build, and simply makes sense.
#25
Three Wheelin'
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I run de-ionized water and water wetter. Partly because I'm always working on the car and putting in fresh coolant adds up, and its also a pain to clean up whereas as water cleans itself up if given enough time. Also, I track the car and I'm always worried about leaving a big slippery patch of coolant behind me. Hitting a surprise patch of water on track would be no fun, hitting coolant would be even worse.
#26
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When I post here, my intent is to help others interested knowing what I've learned since modding these cars for over 18 years.
Having a coolant that doesn't create steam makes sence to me. The additional ability to have less pressure within my coolant system is part of my current build, and simply makes sense.
Having a coolant that doesn't create steam makes sence to me. The additional ability to have less pressure within my coolant system is part of my current build, and simply makes sense.
Two: To be clear (I'm very stupid) because the Evan's has a much higher boiling point it does not turn to steam within the cooling system and therefore doesn't pressurize as regular coolant will...?
Seems cheaper and less work than adding the LR steam vent which seems like a good thing if using standard antifreeze.
#27
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Hey not trying to stomp all over your rose garden George. Your advice has helped me in the past, and it'll help me again in the future.
For you, that would sound like a wise choice. But the OP didn't say if he's running 125HP+ per liter and wild boost. So if the car in question is more on the stock side, is there really any advantage to running more expensive coolant? That was my point.
For you, that would sound like a wise choice. But the OP didn't say if he's running 125HP+ per liter and wild boost. So if the car in question is more on the stock side, is there really any advantage to running more expensive coolant? That was my point.
#28
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All water cooled cars utilize pressure to allow a higher degree of heat prior to steam. Most modern cars use a 16-lb. cap to raise the boiling point 48 degrees higher than the normal 212 degree boiling point.
Evans coolant is waterless. Liquid state, but no water? Lava flows and has no H20.
I use Evans coolant in my quads, Duramax, and my 951. My daily driven cars are still using the cheap stuff without issues. Next flush, I'll be using Evans.
Go to their website to know how to flush your system to allow their product to work as intended. You need to purchase their engine flush prior to the conversion.
2. what do you think about theEdge's suggestion to install draining kits? I understand bleeding these to get the air out can be difficult, unless there is some trick out there...
3. Do you think Evans has any impact on water pumps or their life?
4. Would you use Evans with an old radiator?
#29
Drifting
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1. Did you change the cap on your 951 to reduce the pressure?
2. what do you think about theEdge's suggestion to install draining kits? I understand bleeding these to get the air out can be difficult, unless there is some trick out there...
3. Do you think Evans has any impact on water pumps or their life?
4. Would you use Evans with an old radiator?
2. what do you think about theEdge's suggestion to install draining kits? I understand bleeding these to get the air out can be difficult, unless there is some trick out there...
3. Do you think Evans has any impact on water pumps or their life?
4. Would you use Evans with an old radiator?
Google Evans Coolant. You will find an article from Popular Mechanics testing Evans. The article is a good read, and they were able to advance the timing on a turbo motor during a tuning dyno session realizing an increase of 40+ HP. The scriviner stated there was NO change in fuel. During testing they were precise with measurement or count towards detonation.
We are currently building a friends 3.0 at Sean's house here in Tucson. All water passages had scaling and was similar to what I've seen in my 951's. Evans doesn't have any water, therefore you will NEVER have issues. Evans is a great lubricator, and all components within your cooling system will last longer than a water based system.
#30
Defending the Border
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Keep it simple. Use wahtever doesn't attack aluminum with water to 50/50%.
Red crap + distilled + 50/50 mix + all aluminum radiator = no real road difference. And I drive mine hard.
Red crap + distilled + 50/50 mix + all aluminum radiator = no real road difference. And I drive mine hard.