Temp gauge bounce at 35K rpm
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vancouver, B.C. Canada
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Temp gauge bounce at 35K rpm
Hi all,
I have bee searching for days here but nothing I have seen so far answers to my problem.
Symptoms: My temperature gauge responds normally to cold start, idle, warm up etc. Until i put my foot into it and get the rpms up to around 35K, then the gauge will bounce high then pin low if I keep the rpms up. When I back off - normal.
What I have done so far: Checked all grounds and sensor resistance according to Clarks. All seems fine. Anyone seen this before? What to check next?
I have bee searching for days here but nothing I have seen so far answers to my problem.
Symptoms: My temperature gauge responds normally to cold start, idle, warm up etc. Until i put my foot into it and get the rpms up to around 35K, then the gauge will bounce high then pin low if I keep the rpms up. When I back off - normal.
What I have done so far: Checked all grounds and sensor resistance according to Clarks. All seems fine. Anyone seen this before? What to check next?
#7
Rennlist Member
I'd take a look at the connections on the sender itself too -- an iffy connection or wire might be losing the signal when the motor starts rumbling. Also, always worth cleaning the connector pads on the back of the instrument board itself -- where the connnectors latch on. A normal pink pencil eraser works well for that. You could also clip a multimeter to the sender and watch its signal directly just to make sure it is not failing when the coolant starts flowing faster.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: West Chester, PA / Morristown, NJ
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Temp gauge won't be the only thing that bounces at 35k rpm!
What? we already ribbed him enough? Oh.
Okay. Well, at what point does the Alternator up it's output? I don't think it is linear (like on a failing alt, you can see the lights get brighter at a certain point on some cars). So, clean the footballs on your cluster if you haven't already, check/make your grounds, and or firstly hook up a meter to your alt/bat and see what is getting generated (in spec, that it's safe, etc).
What? we already ribbed him enough? Oh.
Okay. Well, at what point does the Alternator up it's output? I don't think it is linear (like on a failing alt, you can see the lights get brighter at a certain point on some cars). So, clean the footballs on your cluster if you haven't already, check/make your grounds, and or firstly hook up a meter to your alt/bat and see what is getting generated (in spec, that it's safe, etc).