Lee Zook

I have an 86 with symptoms of a bad KLR. I have a MBC, 3.0 FPR, guru chips 38mm tial and SFR catback exhaust. I disabled the CV when I added the MBC. I have searched the forums and am a litter smarter (how I have come to determine bad KLR) but have a few other questions.

Would the KLR acting up cause problems with the DME?

I have been having some strange cutting out and not starting occurrences in the recent past (cutting off on right hand up hill turns, would not immediately restart) and had one today where the car started at home, I drove it 4 miles to Lowes, was in Lowes for 20-25 minutes and came out and car would not start (cranked fine, just would not start). Called wife and she picked me up. I went back to Lowes a couple hours later and it would not start. Then I turned the steering wheel to the left and it started.

I had checked the starter lines, starter, grounds, etc when I first started having the cut off problems.

Thanks,
Lee

Rogue_Ant

How are your speed&reference sensors and wiring?

Tom M'Guinn

+1 and/or DME relay?

When my KLR went bad, it would drop ignition but only under heavy boost. I replaced it and all was well with it and the DME. That's not to say there are not other failure modes...

Lee Zook

S&R Sensors new. DME Relay - Not too old, but have good spare and I have swapped them out and it does not have any discernible affect. Engine wiring harness was replaced about 9 years ago with a 60,000 mile harness and has had about 35,000 miles driven since that event. connectors at sensors did not show obvious issues when I replaced the sensors.

Tom M'Guinn

When the car fails to start, check to see if the tach needle bounces or twitches at all. If not, peel back the rubber boot on the sensors. Mine looked new on the outside but were trashed under the rubber boot.

bw993

Sounds like a fuel pump issue.

CDH-CTT

I "though" KLR is ONLY for boost..... DME runs everything else but when the car hits "boost" the KLR adds fuel +/- timing on top of what the DME says..... right??

Dal Heger

Stomp on the front of the passenger floorboards when it acts up (or to test when it's running). Most likely some cracked solder joints in the DME. When it's running and you stomp on the floorboard it'll either stall or miss. Pop the DME out and reflow the solder on the cold solder joints and you'll be up and running reliably again.

Rogue_Ant

Not quite. The KLR only affects timing, and it cannot add, rather it will only reduce timing if it hears knock...

CDH-CTT

Thanks Joshua

homerj

search gregeast. he had a nice article on checking dme and how to fix. had similar problem on my 86. my broken wire wasnt in the known problem area but right next to it. hope it helps

Ronin-951

Sounds to me like you've been leaving the TV on the NASCAR channel in the garage. I would threaten to pull the Ignition Switch if it does it again.

Lee Zook

I got to work on it a little tonight. Took off the floor board and took out the DME/KLR. I found water in the KLR connector but not the DME connector. Opened up both to look for moisture/corrosion. Found corrosion products on the solder side of the top KLR board where the cable connector is mounted. Did not see anything on the DME boards. We have had lots of rain lately and it looks like the hole under the battery (that I repaired about 8 years ago) has decided that it wants attention again.

Regarding ignition switch, it has in recent times been somewhat finicky about turning. When it acts up, I am usually able to do the key wiggle and get it to turn/start.
Thanks