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Oil Cooler housing seal UPDATE (Need Advice)

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Old 02-15-2012, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pkt1213
Well Jeff, now you can come down and help do my timing belt, water pump, front seals and new head gasket.

Also, congrats on the wedding.
I had someone else do all that work. I didn't want to, but I was getting some body work done and just so happened right as I was taking the car back to nitpick some stuff the damn waterpump started leaking. Not sure how much I would be of a help to do those jobs. Haha.
____

This job ahead of me sounds messy. I just don't want to get in there and then need this or that kind of tool. My idea is to do a little bit at a time.

I don't have milkshake issues at all with my car. It just seems to be leaking oil/coolant from that area. Its the only thing left that could be causing my weird leaking coolant issue. Hopefully it goes smoothly.
Old 02-15-2012, 03:08 PM
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You didn't take it to Karl? He's got his own shop now in grandview.

I got a quote from him but it's a time/money thing to drive it up there to have it done. Might just schedule a couple of weekends. Also going to try to talk Reinke in to coming to help since I don't know how many times I've helped him up his motor in and out of that Fiero.
Old 02-15-2012, 03:51 PM
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Jonathan, you have it backwards. The 3 piece OPRVs are more critical of housing/block alignment because the piston moves inside the bore between the block and the housing. One piece OPRVs can usually get away with using the OPRV itself as an alignment tool (I did this my first time doing this job, but subsequently bought the tool).
Old 02-15-2012, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ModdedEverything951S
Jonathan, you have it backwards. The 3 piece OPRVs are more critical of housing/block alignment because the piston moves inside the bore between the block and the housing. One piece OPRVs can usually get away with using the OPRV itself as an alignment tool (I did this my first time doing this job, but subsequently bought the tool).
I have all the parts laying out right now, and I have to disagree with you. Maybe the housing is different between the 86 and later vehicles. The OPRV bore in my housing has an extra relief about 3/8" deep and a full 1/8" larger diameter than the OPRV. See the pics, and note on the third pic that I don't even have the OPRV screwed all the way in and there's still a LOT of spring protruding beyond the housing. It took a lot of manual force on the valve just to close that distance to half of what you see in the picture. I can't possibly see how the valve could go all the way beyond that 3/8" deep relief.
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Old 02-15-2012, 04:55 PM
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Do it however you feel comfortable. I tend to go on the advice I recieve from a few well known builders since they have dealt with issues such as this more times than I can probably count. My only concern is that someone will read this with less experience, try something, and damage his car. Then again I always follow manuals.
Old 02-15-2012, 11:00 PM
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I did mine without the tool, checking how it felt several times along the way. I was confident with how it all went back together and of course kept a close eye on oil pressure and fittings (new Lart braided lines) when I fired it up the first few times. Ive had no problems in the 6,000 miles or so since the rebuild.

Oh, and I was digging through my toolbox the other day and found the special alignment tool in there... I must have picked one up a while back and forgot about it. Oh well!

Yup, manuals and the proper tools are great, but in the end you do what you gotta do and you live with it.
Old 02-15-2012, 11:33 PM
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I used the special alignment tool when I reinstalled my housing today, but to be honest I could not move the housing enough to make the alignment tool even remotely tight. Any little bit I could move the housing (with all four bolts loose) still left the alignment tool quite loose, and I'm certain it was fully inserted.

The old 3-piece OPRV is a real pain to reinstall. I had to push back against a lot of spring force on the nut while trying to get it threaded - probably took me fifteen minutes trying numerous ways to get it threaded - finally got it with two hands on it, which was pretty difficult with my hands. Once the threads lined up perfectly and caught, I could easily screw it by hand. Without the spring, it threaded very easily all the way in, so it wasn't an issue with the threads, it was the combination of force and alignment. Probably not an issue with the one-piece OPRV since it's hydraulic.
Old 02-15-2012, 11:49 PM
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My opinion is that the alignment tool was an attempt at a quick fix for a few problem 3-piece valves, but it didn't really solve the problem. So instead, Porsche redesigned the valve creating a $600 part to avoid any future issues. I'm glad my cheap original 3-piece works fine even after reinstalling.
Old 02-16-2012, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ModdedEverything951S
Jonathan, you have it backwards. The 3 piece OPRVs are more critical of housing/block alignment because the piston moves inside the bore between the block and the housing. One piece OPRVs can usually get away with using the OPRV itself as an alignment tool (I did this my first time doing this job, but subsequently bought the tool).

+1

Officially, Porsche says all valves need an alignment tool, but collective experience clearly supports Darwin's comments above.
Old 02-16-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by zerMATT951
My opinion is that the alignment tool was an attempt at a quick fix for a few problem 3-piece valves, but it didn't really solve the problem. So instead, Porsche redesigned the valve creating a $600 part to avoid any future issues. I'm glad my cheap original 3-piece works fine even after reinstalling.
I'd venture to guess that the alignment tool has been around since the engine was designed, rather than an afterthought when issues arose. Considering that the one piece OPRV has all the moving parts contained inside the OPRV, while the 3 piece does not, it seems like a more reliable design over the piston-in-bore original approach.

Originally Posted by zerMATT951
but in the end you do what you gotta do and you live with it.
There is a difference between taking the time/research to do something right, and "doing what you gotta do and living with it."

I'm sure have mechanical ability, but that attitude leads to quite a few problems that people end up coming here and asking about, then are told "well you should have done it the right way."
Old 02-16-2012, 02:37 PM
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32mm Wrench Tool Germany VW Audi BMW Porsche | eBay

Wrench Set Tools VW Audi BMW Porsche 24mm & 27mm | eBay

Should I get these tool listed above or get the ones from Harbor Freight?

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piec...set-93668.html
Old 02-18-2012, 11:03 AM
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anyone?
Old 02-18-2012, 11:23 AM
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I"d go with the harbor freight wrenches.
Old 02-18-2012, 01:50 PM
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UPDATE:

I have drained my coolant from the radiator and oil from the engine. I decided I would look at the glorious little engine above me. What do I see, but a drip of coolant on the water pump. It appears that little hose that connects the water pump to the coolant pipe by the headers may be leaking and it isn't my oil cooler housing seals.

Will the oil cooler housing seals cause an external coolant leak? Will you always get milkshake when they go bad? I have no milkshake. My coolant is just a clean as when I put it in a few months ago.

Look at pictures and let me know what you think.

Drip on underside of water pump.




Suspect hose
Old 02-18-2012, 10:30 PM
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When the seals on my 924S oil cooler / heat exchanger housing went, I had a coolant leak - a pretty good one that would drip about 1/2 cup of coolant every night. I had no coolant mixing with oil, just coolant dripping out.

With coolant on the water pump like that, I would suspect the water pump seal first if it hasn't been replaced in a while.

For what it's worth, it's much easier to replace the oil cooler seals with the water pump out of the way, so if you're going to do one, you may as well do both.


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