Oil Cooler housing seal UPDATE (Need Advice)
02-18-2012, 11:08 PM
#31
Race Car
Thread Starter
When the seals on my 924S oil cooler / heat exchanger housing went, I had a coolant leak - a pretty good one that would drip about 1/2 cup of coolant every night. I had no coolant mixing with oil, just coolant dripping out.
With coolant on the water pump like that, I would suspect the water pump seal first if it hasn't been replaced in a while.
For what it's worth, it's much easier to replace the oil cooler seals with the water pump out of the way, so if you're going to do one, you may as well do both.
With coolant on the water pump like that, I would suspect the water pump seal first if it hasn't been replaced in a while.
For what it's worth, it's much easier to replace the oil cooler seals with the water pump out of the way, so if you're going to do one, you may as well do both.
Right now I am starting to wonder if I should replace that hose, and the bottom radiator hose then fill back up with coolant and see if it leaks. My car wasn't leaking coolant consistently so now I am not sold on the oil cooler seals. Should I just do it and replace that hose or just replace the hose and see what happens?
02-18-2012, 11:23 PM
#32
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Replacing the hose first certainly can't hurt... It's not too difficult to do, and you'll know it's good after that. It's completely possible that the hose is delaminating and the recent R&R further damaged it and a small leak is the result.
As an FYI, I put a silicone hose in mine (all silicone hoses now) but that particular hose makes the oil filter wrench (Mann) a REALLY tight fit now. I have to wipe some oil on the outside of the wrench just to get it on the filter and to allow the wrench to turn. I love the silicone hoses, but they are definitely thicker than rubber!
As an FYI, I put a silicone hose in mine (all silicone hoses now) but that particular hose makes the oil filter wrench (Mann) a REALLY tight fit now. I have to wipe some oil on the outside of the wrench just to get it on the filter and to allow the wrench to turn. I love the silicone hoses, but they are definitely thicker than rubber!
02-19-2012, 04:07 AM
#33
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I havent read every post some this may have been answered...either valve is fine. The only real difference is the 3-piece requires you to use the alignment tool where as the newer valve can be used to align the housing, no need for a tool.
As for wrenches, I saw a link to cheap harbor freight tools....well this set, although SAE, works great for all the oil cooler hoses. http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piec...set-30064.html
As for wrenches, I saw a link to cheap harbor freight tools....well this set, although SAE, works great for all the oil cooler hoses. http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piec...set-30064.html
02-19-2012, 01:28 PM
#34
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Interesting. Just a note. I just recently had my waterpump, timing belt, headgasket(preventative), front seals along with a head refresh. I know the waterpump isn't leaking because I took the covers off and there was zero water there. That little hose I showed it looks like there was a little wetness can't see that in the pics.
Right now I am starting to wonder if I should replace that hose, and the bottom radiator hose then fill back up with coolant and see if it leaks. My car wasn't leaking coolant consistently so now I am not sold on the oil cooler seals. Should I just do it and replace that hose or just replace the hose and see what happens?
Right now I am starting to wonder if I should replace that hose, and the bottom radiator hose then fill back up with coolant and see if it leaks. My car wasn't leaking coolant consistently so now I am not sold on the oil cooler seals. Should I just do it and replace that hose or just replace the hose and see what happens?
Go directly to Sears and get yourself a cooling system pressure tester. They work great on our cars and will pin-point the leak and save you hours of extra effort.
02-19-2012, 01:52 PM
#35
Race Car
Thread Starter
I borrowed one from a local friend(Thanks Scott). When I pressure tested the system I was unable to fine the leak. It would only leak after running for a while. Needs to get some heat in the system I guess. The last time I pressure tested I left it for 4 hours and not 1 single drop.
02-19-2012, 02:21 PM
#36
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I borrowed one from a local friend(Thanks Scott). When I pressure tested the system I was unable to fine the leak. It would only leak after running for a while. Needs to get some heat in the system I guess. The last time I pressure tested I left it for 4 hours and not 1 single drop.
02-19-2012, 02:23 PM
#37
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Have you pulled your belt covers and checked the water pump. I had a mystery leak and it showed up at the bottom of the belt cover and where you took your picture. Imo it is to far forward to be cooler as it is in front of the cooler. Check that, because it is common for them to fail as well.
02-19-2012, 05:47 PM
#38
Race Car
Thread Starter
I opened the covers and they were dry as a bonei think this whole time its been that hose. Yesterday was the first tine that I was able to see any wetness anywhere on the engine. Before I could see coolant on the swaybars but couldn't track it down. I might try to replace that hose and go from there.
02-19-2012, 07:58 PM
#39
86 -
Pressurize the system, and then let it sit, pressurized, overnight. Look for leaks in the morning. When I first put my motor back together last winter, I did this - and found a tiny leak at the turbo. It had to sit a while before it started to dribble.
Pressurize the system, and then let it sit, pressurized, overnight. Look for leaks in the morning. When I first put my motor back together last winter, I did this - and found a tiny leak at the turbo. It had to sit a while before it started to dribble.
02-19-2012, 07:59 PM
#40
I opened the covers and they were dry as a bonei think this whole time its been that hose. Yesterday was the first tine that I was able to see any wetness anywhere on the engine. Before I could see coolant on the swaybars but couldn't track it down. I might try to replace that hose and go from there.
If that's not it, then pressurize it overnight.
02-19-2012, 08:16 PM
#41
Race Car
Thread Starter
It sucks because I drained my all my fluids to prep for the oil cooler seal job. Oh well. I will get those hoses ordered and see if that fixes the issue. I will need to get some more coolant to refill the radiator to test it out.
02-19-2012, 09:26 PM
#42
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Get yourself the LR radiator drain hose kit while you're at it. That little thing makes draining the radiator a piece of cake with absolutely NO mess.
02-20-2012, 01:38 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
I'd just use water if it's for a test. Hell of a lot cheaper
02-20-2012, 10:03 AM
#44
Race Car
Thread Starter
If this was the miata or my bike I would use just water, but I'm afraid of it freezing over night then having a not so pleasurable experience the next morning. My other issue is I have to drive the car a few days to see if that is where it is really leaking at or not. Before I started in on this project it would never leak while just running on stands, and short drives it wouldn't leak either. My work is about 17 minutes away and after that drive it wouldn't be leaking, but if I went out for lunch or just to go home for the day then I would see some coolant plus a little oil.
02-20-2012, 10:54 AM
#45
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If this was the miata or my bike I would use just water, but I'm afraid of it freezing over night then having a not so pleasurable experience the next morning. My other issue is I have to drive the car a few days to see if that is where it is really leaking at or not. Before I started in on this project it would never leak while just running on stands, and short drives it wouldn't leak either. My work is about 17 minutes away and after that drive it wouldn't be leaking, but if I went out for lunch or just to go home for the day then I would see some coolant plus a little oil.
Good luck
