88 Turbo died when driving, wont start.
#46
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria BC.
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
scratch my last post. Turns out im getting signal but no pulse, im getting fuel. I replaced the dme relay and the reference sensor. what could it be? does the speed sensor have to do with sending a signal to pulse? or do i have a problem in the dme?
#47
Speed and ref sensors determine engine timing. They go to the DME that fires the coil by pulsing to ground the other side of the coil. So both are needed to make a spark.
Are you getting injector pulses? If you are, but you are not getting spark pulses, it points to the DME being bad.
Are you getting injector pulses? If you are, but you are not getting spark pulses, it points to the DME being bad.
#48
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
How much voltage are you getting at the battery?
Replacing the alt is not complicated, but it's kind of a PITA. You have to remove a lot of crap to get to it, but it isn't hi-tech or anything.
Replacing the alt is not complicated, but it's kind of a PITA. You have to remove a lot of crap to get to it, but it isn't hi-tech or anything.
#49
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria BC.
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I havent tested the battery. But its hooked up too a charger so it should be fine?
how do i test if im not getting a injector pulse or spark pulse?
Im gonna put a new speed sensor in. hopefully that works
would crappy grounds have anything to do with it?
if it is my DME, does the replacement have to be specific to turbo and the year or are they all the same?
how do i test if im not getting a injector pulse or spark pulse?
Im gonna put a new speed sensor in. hopefully that works
would crappy grounds have anything to do with it?
if it is my DME, does the replacement have to be specific to turbo and the year or are they all the same?
#50
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
That's not true. You either need to test for voltage, or just take it down to the local autozone tyype place, and have them throw it on the tester. At a certain point, batteries won't take a charge. 12 volts isn't enough. You want a good 13+. Until you can eliminate that, nothing else makes sense.
#51
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria BC.
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats why i had the question mark cause i wasnt sure. There is a different battery in the car right now, from my other car. so its probably not the battery.
#54
Burning Brakes
Go ahead and bypass it as per the instructions on clarks-garage... I remember someone posting on here a little while back with similar symptoms as your car. 25 year old alarm module turned out to be the culprit.
#55
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria BC.
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so i made sure it was pluged in and the alarm worked (cause it was hanging down before) still no start, but i will look into it after i try replacing the speed sensor.
#56
Burning Brakes
Did you just plug it in or actually jump the two terminals? I would do the latter before spending more money.
You've confirmed there's no-spark right? Plug in spark plug, ground threads on intake or something?
You've confirmed there's no-spark right? Plug in spark plug, ground threads on intake or something?
#58
Burning Brakes
http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-23.htm
Also, faulty ignition switch could cause a no-start.
Instructions to test from clark's
"Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the DME computer plug. Connect a DC voltmeter from terminal 4 on the DME plug to ground. Attempt to crank the vehicle and check for approximately 12 VDC on the voltmeter. If no voltage is present, the ignition switch is bad or the wire from the ignition switch to the DME computer is broken. To check the wire, check the resistance from terminal 50 on the ignition switch electrical plug to terminal 4 on the DME plug."
Also, faulty ignition switch could cause a no-start.
Instructions to test from clark's
"Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the DME computer plug. Connect a DC voltmeter from terminal 4 on the DME plug to ground. Attempt to crank the vehicle and check for approximately 12 VDC on the voltmeter. If no voltage is present, the ignition switch is bad or the wire from the ignition switch to the DME computer is broken. To check the wire, check the resistance from terminal 50 on the ignition switch electrical plug to terminal 4 on the DME plug."
#59
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria BC.
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Where is the Ignition switch? I tried replacing the speed sensor and it still doesnt work. Im getting to the point where I wanna just tow it to a mechanic. Might as well try this ignition switch and jumping the alarm terminals.
#60
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member