SeaCay

I have a good as new pan if you want to go that route.

xupkid2

BTW, if you decide to go with a new pan, try to find an 89 as it has a built in crank scraper. Im not sure if 88 or 87 had that.

lart951

I have never seen a 89 turbo with a built scrapper, are you reffering to the waffle perhaps

User 52121

LOL ya I already wrote that guy off. Clearly he doesn't know WTF he's talking about....

User 52121

I'm gonna give the Belzona a try. Cat didn't have any in stock - seems they changed distributors. So I'll have to buy it from Belzona direct. Still will be cheaper than pulling the pan (because if I pull the pan... then a 3pc crossover is going in, a 3pc crossmember is going in, a new turbo is going in, and new chips/MAF/etc to work with the new turbo is going in.....) I still have some winter home remodeling projects to pay for, and when I told my wife what the alternative to epoxy was, she had a cow... so epoxy it is!

Got the oil drained over the weekend. Since there's a little "lip" on the inside of the pan at the drain plug, I'm concerned about getting ALL the brakekleen out... I don't want the chance of inter-mixed brakekleen and oil lingering in there. So I'll skip that bright idea and instead have the car tilted, and I'll leave it to sit that way for a week or two to let all the oil run away from the area I need to ensure is clean. I figure with the leaning car plus a nightly application of heat to the pan (to thin out the oil to help it "flow" a bit) should help. I've got a solid 8-10 weeks before the car goes back on the road - might as well take my time.

bebbetufs

Oil pan related work is a PITA.
You might as well pull the engine and replace every single part with new as I tend to do. That way you might maybe be safe from some possibility possibly taking place in the near future

Seriously. Good luck and I hope you manage to seal it. You can try thinning the oil in the pan with some diesel or gasoline. Won't heart your engine if some of it is left in there.

JohnKoaWood

The aromatics in brakekleen won't hurt either... If really worried about it you could flush with oil them drain and refill prior to running it!

aben8057

At this years PRI show there was an interesting product. It was a roll of solder that you could use a torch and used for welding aluminum. There was a young pretty thang in a bikini welding aluminum together which we could not break apart.

Laust Pedersen

Now that you have started the untraditional repair methods, here is an associated untraditional thought on cleaning filling the crack from the outside.

Just attach (tape) a shop vacuum to the oil filler port and spray brake cleaner on the crack from the outside.
If there is enough vacuum, it will migrate in and clean the crack.

It should also be an advantage to apply epoxy under vacuum, since that too should migrate into the crack.

Tom M'Guinn

I wonder if a clever TIG welder could stitch it up from the outside? Maybe a shallow weld that doesn't make it all the way in to the inside? Unless it's cracked near the gasket...

pole position

Contaminated aluminum is very difficult aka next to impossible, to quality weld Tig, same with a Mig spoolgun, take the pan off and beadblasted it and it will weld easy.

In his case I just would use Epoxy/JB weld.

67King

It is usually faster, cheaper, and easier to just fix it right once............

Last930

Amen.. You know, a makeshift repair may hold up for a while, but Murphy's Law says it's gonna let you down at the worst time - like sitting in heavy traffic, or on a freezing cold night, or at the race track,..... My advice - bite the bullett and pull the pan - you already know how to do it !

mikey_audiogeek

Have you tried Loctite 290? It is designed for fixing porosity in castings. AKA "super wick-in".
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_l...-Green-290.htm

Use the vac approach suggested by Laust in post #24.

http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Mai.../TankLeak.html

Cheers,
Mike