3-3 code on KLR
01-11-2003, 07:24 PM
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3-3 code on KLR
Well, My new TPS hasnt come in yet so I took the old one off and flush it with contact cleaner. cleaned all other conections, checked ohms cold and warm on the temp sensor(in specs) cleaned the air meter box, throttle body checked all vacuum hoses again and while I had the airbox off, tensioned the belts. I also replaced the coil with a MSD Blaster. Put everything bach together using dielectric grease on all connectors and it still has a bit of hesitation, worse when cold and boosts fine. But after shutting it down and restarting an hour or so later, I'm going into boost protection again with a 4-2 code then shut it down and drove some more...Then a 3-3 code. If I remove the TPS connection, the idle will climb and I get a 4-1 as it should. If I replace the TPS and still have the 3-3 and 4-2 codes, what else can it be?
BTW, anyone have a 'pin out' on the TPS with ohm readings so I can compare it to a new one?
Thanks
BTW, anyone have a 'pin out' on the TPS with ohm readings so I can compare it to a new one?
Thanks
01-11-2003, 08:53 PM
#2
okay - 3-3 is either klr pressure receiver or tps. 3-3 in conjunction with 4-1 indicates a loose tps connector. 4-2 indicates a bad tps wiring harness, have you thoroughly inspected the harness back to where it is protected for shorts?
01-11-2003, 08:57 PM
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<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/rob/19.jpg" alt=" - " />
The 3-3 code is for a faulty pressure sensor. The manual says to replace the klr. I would verify that the pressure signal line from the intake manifold to the klr is not blocked, broken, or disconnected first. If the line is O.K. I would then check out the klr's solder joints.
Rob
Edit: I just re-read your post and special tool is correct, the 3-3 and 4-1 can occur concurrently even though the pressure sensor is O.K. Is you dash boost gauge operating properly?
The 3-3 code is for a faulty pressure sensor. The manual says to replace the klr. I would verify that the pressure signal line from the intake manifold to the klr is not blocked, broken, or disconnected first. If the line is O.K. I would then check out the klr's solder joints.
Rob
Edit: I just re-read your post and special tool is correct, the 3-3 and 4-1 can occur concurrently even though the pressure sensor is O.K. Is you dash boost gauge operating properly?
01-11-2003, 09:06 PM
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Thanks guys, I havent inspect the cabling yet. My factory boost gauge is function correctly so I assume the KLR is getting the pressure. Its pressure line looks OK. After I replace the TPS(should be here next week) I will check the other things if the problem is still there. I'm hoping its not the KLR.
01-12-2003, 05:20 PM
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Update, I checked the cables today and pulled the DME and KLR checking the resistance values as per above. Text book perfect with no breaks in the 'sweep' from idle to full throttle. I also checked grounds and all looked good and measured zero ohms back to the battery. So I opened both the DME and KLR and looked for any bad solder joints, none, looked great. but I flushed everything with contact cleaner just for good measure. Reassmbled everything and the car fires up fine, warmed up fine with no KLR faults. Then ,while the car was idling, it started varying wildly from almost stalling, to 1500 RPM, It kept doing this, I reved it and it would settle down and start the swinging again. I had a 3-3 fault code. I unpluged the TPS and the car smoothed out at 1100 RPM. Shut it off, rehooked the TPS and restarted, Running fine. Went out for a test drive, and I'm in Boost protection mode again, Restarted several times and then it started boosting normally with no faults, several more restarts and boosting fine with no faults.
Very strange, If the new TPS doesnt fix it, it looks like a bad KLR.
Very strange, If the new TPS doesnt fix it, it looks like a bad KLR.
01-12-2003, 09:41 PM
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Yep...and checked the signal at the KLR cable connector.Works fine. Another observation....after reseating all the relays in the relay/fuse box my heater fan didnt work...sometimes the AC does the same thing. I wiggled the relay and it started working. What if there is a ground problem feeding the Fuse box??? Is it hard to remove the fuse box to check/clean all the connections. Tonight same deal...boost limit mode and a bit of rough running/ surging, shut the car off then on and 'boom' full boost and running great. What if there is another relay thats causing problems. I have replaced the DME relay already.
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01-14-2003, 03:10 PM
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Update, I installed a new TPS last night, was in boost protection mode with 4-2 codes. After new TPS...Boosting fine with no alarms. Still running fine today with fingers crossed. It must be breaking down under heat cuz it checked good cold.