Head stud is pulling out, won't torque
01-14-2012, 11:58 PM
#47
Three Wheelin'
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Though 270 is for permanent installation, you'll be fine with 266. Just don't use a high strength thread locker on the stud, because if you decide to upgrade studs in the future, you may pull the insert and damage the new block threads.
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/266-EN.pdf
http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/270%20NEW-EN.PDF
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/266-EN.pdf
http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/270%20NEW-EN.PDF
01-15-2012, 01:30 AM
#50
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It held the torque when I bolted it down. I set the torque wrench to 70ft lbs while doing the 15/90/90 procedure to make sure it wasn't going ballistic to something like 100+ft lbs. As I saw a old post from chris white that said the block threads are good to 115ish before they start to give.
I should have it finished tomorrow and we'll see how it runs. And if it will hold up to the heat and vibrations again. The insert is a full 30mm deep and using all of the stud threads, so it should be good to go.
I should have it finished tomorrow and we'll see how it runs. And if it will hold up to the heat and vibrations again. The insert is a full 30mm deep and using all of the stud threads, so it should be good to go.
01-15-2012, 03:08 AM
#51
Rennlist Member
It held the torque when I bolted it down. I set the torque wrench to 70ft lbs while doing the 15/90/90 procedure to make sure it wasn't going ballistic to something like 100+ft lbs. As I saw a old post from chris white that said the block threads are good to 115ish before they start to give.
I should have it finished tomorrow and we'll see how it runs. And if it will hold up to the heat and vibrations again. The insert is a full 30mm deep and using all of the stud threads, so it should be good to go.
I should have it finished tomorrow and we'll see how it runs. And if it will hold up to the heat and vibrations again. The insert is a full 30mm deep and using all of the stud threads, so it should be good to go.
01-16-2012, 12:13 AM
#52
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Got the car started, seems to run smooth but I have two issues: 1. Leaking fuel line right at the regulator, seems to be a bad crimp on the rubber line. I pulled it off and squeezed it with channel locks a few times all the way around and it's stopped, but still don't feel safe with it. 2. Loud ticking noise, seems to be one of the valve tappets, wondering if it will go away once I let it warm up and circulate some oil.
I didn't let it run very long as I was worried about the gas leak.
I didn't let it run very long as I was worried about the gas leak.
01-16-2012, 12:17 AM
#53
Rennlist Member
The lifters tend to clatter pretty bad until the motor has been run for a while -- so wouldn't worry too much about that for now. As for the fuel lines, I'd just get replacements -- virtually all of the 944 vendors have a version of replacement lines these days...
01-16-2012, 06:29 AM
#54
Burning Brakes
As for the fuel lines, I'd just get replacements -- virtually all of the 944 vendors have a version of replacement lines these days...
01-16-2012, 09:49 AM
#55
Three Wheelin'
Please, please, before you do anymore maintenence replace both the feed, return, and the short damper line. A certain former city council member out in california has some nice lines for a great price, off the record anyway.
01-18-2012, 01:45 PM
#60
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Yeah, I did the one bad stud with the engine in the car. If it comes up again, I'll have the tools and knowledge next time.
Appreciate everyone's help and input.
Appreciate everyone's help and input.
