TPWS rundown of my 951 problems
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will put all the bad things they put in each category. Also I asked about an engine rebuild they said bottom and top end with new hoses about 10k
Compression tests- All cylinders 145
Spark plug-Need new plugs cyl one getting oil on it
Engine oil leaks-Oil pan gasket, Frt Main, Cork gasket @ cam
Fuel system- Engine and hoses and injectors free of leaks with proper seals
Manifold-Intake ok exhaust manifold cracked badly
Air filter condition poor box missing hardware
Exhaust system- Hangers dry rotted/cracked DP and Muffler dented
P/S belt frayed
OIL COOLER TORN FROM MOUNTS, HANGING SMASHING INTO P/S COOLER LINE
Synchros. Differential- Ok free of leaks
Clutch-Ok but master cyclinder leaking
Brake pads ok front rotors slightly warped
Front suspension
Bad P/S rack line to cooler damaged
Steering column- Upper shaft joint worn out
A-arm bushing- Left inner bad
Ball joint- So badly worn causing damage to left control arm. Other worn too
Sway bar bushings-swollen and falling out
Drop link-ok
Wheel bearing-ok
Front and rear spring worn sagging heavily
Struts very weak
Rear sus
A-arms- Bushing ok- rusty
Radius arms-ok
Shocks very weak
Sway bushing/mount-ok
Bearings-ok
Body
Paint-Partial repaint- Condition poor
Basically everywhere is chiped or a bad repaint
Missing front spoiler/wing
Rear upper good lower spoiler missing much hardware
Deck lid- Hatch glass seperated, wiper inop-seal bad
Interior
Dash cracked, headliner seperating, Shift **** worn
Heat-no heat until driving low coolant levels
Test drive
Misfire @ idle
Shifts properly
Noise level on road. Tires,and trans noisy bad vibration
Left/right motor mounts broken
Turbo passing considerable amount of oil into intake tract.
Final words when i picked up...Car is dangerous. Lower left ball joint is weak to the point it could break completey. Recommend replacing control arms first, followed by new plugs.
Compression tests- All cylinders 145
Spark plug-Need new plugs cyl one getting oil on it
Engine oil leaks-Oil pan gasket, Frt Main, Cork gasket @ cam
Fuel system- Engine and hoses and injectors free of leaks with proper seals
Manifold-Intake ok exhaust manifold cracked badly
Air filter condition poor box missing hardware
Exhaust system- Hangers dry rotted/cracked DP and Muffler dented
P/S belt frayed
OIL COOLER TORN FROM MOUNTS, HANGING SMASHING INTO P/S COOLER LINE
Synchros. Differential- Ok free of leaks
Clutch-Ok but master cyclinder leaking
Brake pads ok front rotors slightly warped
Front suspension
Bad P/S rack line to cooler damaged
Steering column- Upper shaft joint worn out
A-arm bushing- Left inner bad
Ball joint- So badly worn causing damage to left control arm. Other worn too
Sway bar bushings-swollen and falling out
Drop link-ok
Wheel bearing-ok
Front and rear spring worn sagging heavily
Struts very weak
Rear sus
A-arms- Bushing ok- rusty
Radius arms-ok
Shocks very weak
Sway bushing/mount-ok
Bearings-ok
Body
Paint-Partial repaint- Condition poor
Basically everywhere is chiped or a bad repaint
Missing front spoiler/wing
Rear upper good lower spoiler missing much hardware
Deck lid- Hatch glass seperated, wiper inop-seal bad
Interior
Dash cracked, headliner seperating, Shift **** worn
Heat-no heat until driving low coolant levels
Test drive
Misfire @ idle
Shifts properly
Noise level on road. Tires,and trans noisy bad vibration
Left/right motor mounts broken
Turbo passing considerable amount of oil into intake tract.
Final words when i picked up...Car is dangerous. Lower left ball joint is weak to the point it could break completey. Recommend replacing control arms first, followed by new plugs.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Already bought it. Bought it about 2 months ago. Took it by some cheap Euro garage the week I bought it they didn't find much wrong. Guess thats what you get when you go to some generic Eurotech place over going to a real porsche place. Well this will be one hell of a project car. I knew it needed some work. Just wasn't expecting that much. I can do a decent bit DIY. Hell I will have to DIY cause i'm broke at the moment lol.
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indianapolis,IN
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ben nailed it. It looks bad when its all written down, but pretty average squawks. Put it on jackstands and get cracking. Lots of DIY info, advice, and parts on here.
If you don't like getting dirty and don't own tools, this is going to be trouble.
If you don't like getting dirty and don't own tools, this is going to be trouble.
#11
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will put all the bad things they put in each category. Also I asked about an engine rebuild they said bottom and top end with new hoses about 10k
Compression tests- All cylinders 145
Spark plug-Need new plugs cyl one getting oil on it
Engine oil leaks-Oil pan gasket, Frt Main, Cork gasket @ cam
Fuel system- Engine and hoses and injectors free of leaks with proper seals
Manifold-Intake ok exhaust manifold cracked badly
Air filter condition poor box missing hardware
Exhaust system- Hangers dry rotted/cracked DP and Muffler dented
P/S belt frayed
OIL COOLER TORN FROM MOUNTS, HANGING SMASHING INTO P/S COOLER LINE
Synchros. Differential- Ok free of leaks
Clutch-Ok but master cyclinder leaking
Brake pads ok front rotors slightly warped
Front suspension
Bad P/S rack line to cooler damaged
Steering column- Upper shaft joint worn out
A-arm bushing- Left inner bad
Ball joint- So badly worn causing damage to left control arm. Other worn too
Sway bar bushings-swollen and falling out
Drop link-ok
Wheel bearing-ok
Front and rear spring worn sagging heavily
Struts very weak
Rear sus
A-arms- Bushing ok- rusty
Radius arms-ok
Shocks very weak
Sway bushing/mount-ok
Bearings-ok
Body
Paint-Partial repaint- Condition poor
Basically everywhere is chiped or a bad repaint
Missing front spoiler/wing
Rear upper good lower spoiler missing much hardware
Deck lid- Hatch glass seperated, wiper inop-seal bad
Interior
Dash cracked, headliner seperating, Shift **** worn
Heat-no heat until driving low coolant levels
Test drive
Misfire @ idle
Shifts properly
Noise level on road. Tires,and trans noisy bad vibration
Left/right motor mounts broken
Turbo passing considerable amount of oil into intake tract.
Final words when i picked up...Car is dangerous. Lower left ball joint is weak to the point it could break completey. Recommend replacing control arms first, followed by new plugs.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Compression tests- All cylinders 145
Spark plug-Need new plugs cyl one getting oil on it
Engine oil leaks-Oil pan gasket, Frt Main, Cork gasket @ cam
Fuel system- Engine and hoses and injectors free of leaks with proper seals
Manifold-Intake ok exhaust manifold cracked badly
Air filter condition poor box missing hardware
Exhaust system- Hangers dry rotted/cracked DP and Muffler dented
P/S belt frayed
OIL COOLER TORN FROM MOUNTS, HANGING SMASHING INTO P/S COOLER LINE
Synchros. Differential- Ok free of leaks
Clutch-Ok but master cyclinder leaking
Brake pads ok front rotors slightly warped
Front suspension
Bad P/S rack line to cooler damaged
Steering column- Upper shaft joint worn out
A-arm bushing- Left inner bad
Ball joint- So badly worn causing damage to left control arm. Other worn too
Sway bar bushings-swollen and falling out
Drop link-ok
Wheel bearing-ok
Front and rear spring worn sagging heavily
Struts very weak
Rear sus
A-arms- Bushing ok- rusty
Radius arms-ok
Shocks very weak
Sway bushing/mount-ok
Bearings-ok
Body
Paint-Partial repaint- Condition poor
Basically everywhere is chiped or a bad repaint
Missing front spoiler/wing
Rear upper good lower spoiler missing much hardware
Deck lid- Hatch glass seperated, wiper inop-seal bad
Interior
Dash cracked, headliner seperating, Shift **** worn
Heat-no heat until driving low coolant levels
Test drive
Misfire @ idle
Shifts properly
Noise level on road. Tires,and trans noisy bad vibration
Left/right motor mounts broken
Turbo passing considerable amount of oil into intake tract.
Final words when i picked up...Car is dangerous. Lower left ball joint is weak to the point it could break completey. Recommend replacing control arms first, followed by new plugs.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Socket in the J Boot, killed the turbo, exhaust needed to be fixed. rear shocks were dead, front struts still need attention, eventually I will need tackle the power steering leaks(hoses most likely). This is typical of any car that wasn't maintained. it sucks but just do little projects one at a time. That is all I am doing. After having the TB and Water Pump plus the Turbo replacement I am into this car quite a bit(had a mechanic do both of these jobs), but I know exactly what I have. A completely refreshed top end with a new headgasket along with new front end components and that's done for a while.
If you really like the car work at it. If you were just looking for a Porsche to drive to the ground I would look elsewhere as this car will be a rolling project for a while. Focus on mechanicals(get it running really good), then focus on suspension, then whatever else after that.
#12
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1988
I love getting dirty had have worked at firestone for about 3 years before I joined the army. I know most of the basics. Only thing I am not familiar with is timing related stuff. Also engine rebuilding. Only engine I have helped with was a chevy 350 way different
Oh I am very familiar with Lart thanks for those stub axles. Not sure who joshB is though.
Fort Hood, Texas
Yes I completely agree. He said by the way my compression tests came out. That my internals should be good. He said that my control arms are making my car "dangerous" to drive". So I will try to source those by my next paycheck.
Following that I will replace my ignition system I think with one of lindsey's kits. He said that was a big problem with my car. SO I might as well do the whole set instead of just the plugs. The powersteering rack I was told needed to be replaced. Is this an easy job? I have been to clarks garage. Do you guys know of any site that also include pictures. I'm kinda a visual guy lol. I will keep you guys up on what I do. Or write up some how to's as I tackle it.
Fort Hood, Texas
If the engine runs okay then, I would start tackling the Suspension first then move onto the other stuff. Power steering leaks are very common these cars. When I bought my car I thought it was a really good deal, but who owned before me was a Porsche Tuner and seemed to know these cars quite well. Come to find out there were some serious issue with the car.
Socket in the J Boot, killed the turbo, exhaust needed to be fixed. rear shocks were dead, front struts still need attention, eventually I will need tackle the power steering leaks(hoses most likely). This is typical of any car that wasn't maintained. it sucks but just do little projects one at a time. That is all I am doing. After having the TB and Water Pump plus the Turbo replacement I am into this car quite a bit(had a mechanic do both of these jobs), but I know exactly what I have. A completely refreshed top end with a new headgasket along with new front end components and that's done for a while.
If you really like the car work at it. If you were just looking for a Porsche to drive to the ground I would look elsewhere as this car will be a rolling project for a while. Focus on mechanicals(get it running really good), then focus on suspension, then whatever else after that.
Socket in the J Boot, killed the turbo, exhaust needed to be fixed. rear shocks were dead, front struts still need attention, eventually I will need tackle the power steering leaks(hoses most likely). This is typical of any car that wasn't maintained. it sucks but just do little projects one at a time. That is all I am doing. After having the TB and Water Pump plus the Turbo replacement I am into this car quite a bit(had a mechanic do both of these jobs), but I know exactly what I have. A completely refreshed top end with a new headgasket along with new front end components and that's done for a while.
If you really like the car work at it. If you were just looking for a Porsche to drive to the ground I would look elsewhere as this car will be a rolling project for a while. Focus on mechanicals(get it running really good), then focus on suspension, then whatever else after that.
Following that I will replace my ignition system I think with one of lindsey's kits. He said that was a big problem with my car. SO I might as well do the whole set instead of just the plugs. The powersteering rack I was told needed to be replaced. Is this an easy job? I have been to clarks garage. Do you guys know of any site that also include pictures. I'm kinda a visual guy lol. I will keep you guys up on what I do. Or write up some how to's as I tackle it.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
#13
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
is it the ball joints? those are also a common problem, I did a rennbay kit for those. Not too difficult. Timing belt isn't all that bad either, there are videos on youtube for it.
#14
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Make sure that your control arms aren't damaged in the ball joint pockets, if they've been bad for a while they can sometimes take hunks of aluminum out of the control arm. Besides that, another +1 for the RennBay kit, get the one with the bronze bushings not the poly ones.
#15
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indianapolis,IN
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1. Call Travis at Rennbay for balljoint kits.
2. Go to 20th and Ironsides (building 9138).
3. Pay them $5 an hour for a bay with lift.
4. Install the ball joint kit with help and tools available (if needed).
5. Order more stuff and repeat.
2. Go to 20th and Ironsides (building 9138).
3. Pay them $5 an hour for a bay with lift.
4. Install the ball joint kit with help and tools available (if needed).
5. Order more stuff and repeat.