ian kam

i'm currently awaiting the map 1 upgrade kit from danno. Im wondering how often will i tune this car i live in canada are temps are often the same in the summer but how is this system for changes in humidity and so on. I have heard some concerns with it...can anyone throw in some feed back. I will also be using a dual wastegate and not the supplied boost enhancer how will i know when i get to a desired boost nad not a disasterous level.

crazyracer

With the dual wastegate you need a gauge as well. It will tell you exactly how much boost you are making. 15 PSI is the maximum I am running on the street. You also need to tune your car on a dyno or with the help of a wide band sensor. Most people seem to do both in order to fine tune the car when they are making any changes to it. You can get complete wide band sensors from techedge, lamdaboy and lindsey. Make sure that you get the required O2 sensor and the weld on bung with it.

ian kam

well im getting the tuning module from danno also with the map kit. With this and a purchase of a boost gauge i should be set to go? I take it 15psi is the number to reach? Oh ya olso have ordered a brand new o2 sensor.

Mike S

I'm waiting for my MAP kit as well. I can't comment personally on MAF, just what I've seen. What basically sold me on the MAP kit was the number of people I saw constantly fiddling with their MAF kits to compensate for weather changes. If it was too hot, the idle would suffer...too cold, it would suffer. I'm not saying everyone has this problem, but I've seen/know of at least 3-4 with the same problem. The MAP seemed to be a little less sensitive to me.

dmoffitt

so, what are you doing for boost control exactly?

crazyracer

No, you have no way of getting the A/F ratio. You need to go on a dyno or install a wide band sensor. If you have no other modifications than the guru kit and chips it should be fine but if you have other stuff like a different turbo, exhaust pipe, there is no way to get it right. The tuning module is the adjuster, the wide band sensor the measuring instrument. An indication could give you the factory o2 sensor with an A/F gauge connected to it like <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/martintaylor/new.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/martintaylor/new.htm)</a> but it is not as accurate as a wide band sensor..

Jake951

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Mike S:
<strong> What basically sold me on the MAP kit was the number of people I saw constantly fiddling with their MAF kits to compensate for weather changes. If it was too hot, the idle would suffer...too cold, it would suffer. I'm not saying everyone has this problem, but I've seen/know of at least 3-4 with the same problem. The MAP seemed to be a little less sensitive to me.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I have the GURU MAP-1 kit and there are zero issues with temperature variation. I have used it over a temperature range of about 0 to 90 degrees F and it starts, idles, and runs just fine over that range.

Bri Bro

One of the main problems with the MAF was that that didn't supply the air temp sensor that was in the stock airbox. The DME didn't know if it was hot or cold outside.

Jason_86_951

I haven't had any issue with cold/hot temps either.
Once I dialed my kit in on the dyno with A/F, its been running REALLY GOOD!!!!!!!

hally

How much dyno-time / how many runs is it generally
taking people to dial in their MAP kits?
cheers,
Gregor.

dmoffitt

my digital maf (lindsey - pro M i believe) has an air-temp sensor... I'd go digital maf or map, certainly not old-skool maf (huntley or autothority style). the one thing I really like about the guru MAP kits, however, is their reliance on the proper look-up points, rather than signal massaging (well, they DO massage the airflow signal, but differently).

fast951

From my understanding a "Digital" MAF generates a frequency signal. A non "Digital" MAF generates a analog signal or voltage (0-5v for the 951).

I'm yet to see a true "Digita;" MAF for the 951. It does not exist. However there are various controllers that massage the signals and they can be digital...

ALL MAF sensors used on the 951 are ANALOG not "Digital".

RobNL

But isn't this the same for MAP. It also returns an analog signal to the DME.

Jason_86_951

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by hally:
<strong>How much dyno-time / how many runs is it generally
taking people to dial in their MAP kits?
cheers,
Gregor.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">If you write or video tape the tuning module's map zone info during your first run, you could pretty much dial it in within 2 more runs unless your car has unique problems or upgrades.
I got mine tuned in pretty close during a three run stint.
HTH
Jason

tazman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by fast951:
<strong>From my understanding a "Digital" MAF generates a frequency signal. A non "Digital" MAF generates a analog signal or voltage (0-5v for the 951).

I'm yet to see a true "Digita;" MAF for the 951. It does not exist. However there are various controllers that massage the signals and they can be digital...

ALL MAF sensors used on the 951 are ANALOG not "Digital".</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Is that like the digital cable they offer in my area that runs into the house with RG6 coax and what ever wire they run outside <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />