Dilemma
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
jpop8807, I believe there is some sort of misunderstanding of the Vitesse products.
The Stealth kit includes a chip and a PiggyBack. The Stealth kit is designed to work with the factory AFM, which is why it is called Stealth. A few racers use it to fly under the radar, which is why the AFM is used. You can use the Vitesse MAF with it.
The Vitesse MAF comes with a chipboard, which replaces the chip in the DME. You get multiple images on the chipboard vs. a single image on a regular chip. The MAF kit does not require a PB to work.
The PiggyBack is a totally different product. It works with a standard AFM chip or a chipboard.
The Vitesse MAF software (now called V-MAF+) does interface to the PB we offer as well as to thrid party products, such as the complex alarms in the Zeitronix WB system. The through the interface you set your own rev-limit, overboost as well as any other alarm you want to handle.
Of course, as others mentioned already, make sure you have a solid engine with up to date maintenance before you start upgrading.
Hope this helps.
The Stealth kit includes a chip and a PiggyBack. The Stealth kit is designed to work with the factory AFM, which is why it is called Stealth. A few racers use it to fly under the radar, which is why the AFM is used. You can use the Vitesse MAF with it.
The Vitesse MAF comes with a chipboard, which replaces the chip in the DME. You get multiple images on the chipboard vs. a single image on a regular chip. The MAF kit does not require a PB to work.
The PiggyBack is a totally different product. It works with a standard AFM chip or a chipboard.
The Vitesse MAF software (now called V-MAF+) does interface to the PB we offer as well as to thrid party products, such as the complex alarms in the Zeitronix WB system. The through the interface you set your own rev-limit, overboost as well as any other alarm you want to handle.
Of course, as others mentioned already, make sure you have a solid engine with up to date maintenance before you start upgrading.
Hope this helps.
#18
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Killeen, TX Fort hood army base. Haha No offense in the ****ers comment. I ment it more as a smart *** way not serious bro.
Reno ok appreciate it.
1. The mechanic I took it too said that my compression tests where good enough so he said he doesn't feel like it needs to be rebuilt. 140,130,140,140 now I have no idea if that has any bearing on how good of shape the engine is in.
2. The full inspection he did told me to replace control arms, motor mounts, steering rack, tie rod ends, stub axles, and accessory belts, and the cam cover gasket. Timing belt was changed about 10k ago and so was alot of other stuff. Previous owners records.
3. I did seach I from what I saw vitesse was a piggy back unit and rogues tune has a chip for the dme and something else. Sorry coming from old supras and stuff like that usually a piggy back takes care of all. Well not all that would be a stand alone but you get my drift. New to this chips sound like something homos with mustangs use. All I know is flashes, piggys, and EMS.
4. WTF I know that alot of companys sell rebuild kits but the search doesn't tell if its better to buy a rebuilt small/long block or get a rebuild kit and have a good mechanic do it.
5.where the hell is that tread? First it was SFR and guru are great then other treads stay away. Go with this or that company and they said vitesses turbos are the best. But the ones I read are all from certain individuals. Either against or for. Sorry I didn't read thru f-ing 1173 pages or 474 pages when i did the search.
6. And yes I did find out why they do it to meet there special track needs. Or to maximize power and so forth not weather its necessarly better or if seperate venders part will work together better or cost more(headaches and price) for all the additional tuning when you could go thru one company with the parts designed to work together if the headaches and prices are worth going the seperate vendor route. I'm not building a race car.
This is my first euro i'm not some old crusty *** man who couldn't afford this car as a kid and now he's living his dream and knows everything about it. Or else I would have went with a vette for the simple ease of it. Just wanted to try something new.
Loving regards,
Jpop
Reno ok appreciate it.
1. The mechanic I took it too said that my compression tests where good enough so he said he doesn't feel like it needs to be rebuilt. 140,130,140,140 now I have no idea if that has any bearing on how good of shape the engine is in.
2. The full inspection he did told me to replace control arms, motor mounts, steering rack, tie rod ends, stub axles, and accessory belts, and the cam cover gasket. Timing belt was changed about 10k ago and so was alot of other stuff. Previous owners records.
3. I did seach I from what I saw vitesse was a piggy back unit and rogues tune has a chip for the dme and something else. Sorry coming from old supras and stuff like that usually a piggy back takes care of all. Well not all that would be a stand alone but you get my drift. New to this chips sound like something homos with mustangs use. All I know is flashes, piggys, and EMS.
4. WTF I know that alot of companys sell rebuild kits but the search doesn't tell if its better to buy a rebuilt small/long block or get a rebuild kit and have a good mechanic do it.
5.where the hell is that tread? First it was SFR and guru are great then other treads stay away. Go with this or that company and they said vitesses turbos are the best. But the ones I read are all from certain individuals. Either against or for. Sorry I didn't read thru f-ing 1173 pages or 474 pages when i did the search.
6. And yes I did find out why they do it to meet there special track needs. Or to maximize power and so forth not weather its necessarly better or if seperate venders part will work together better or cost more(headaches and price) for all the additional tuning when you could go thru one company with the parts designed to work together if the headaches and prices are worth going the seperate vendor route. I'm not building a race car.
This is my first euro i'm not some old crusty *** man who couldn't afford this car as a kid and now he's living his dream and knows everything about it. Or else I would have went with a vette for the simple ease of it. Just wanted to try something new.
Loving regards,
Jpop
![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)
#19
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Lol sorry about the old man thing. What I ment is that men of age have longer time to study and get to know about what they like say vs a guy who just came back from a deployment and thought he would try something new.
Tedro heating problem done loose rad hose but so small it took a while for it to be noticeable.
I contacted lindsey they said do a leakdown test if I'm not smoking or leaking oil and don't plan on tracking it do a leakdown test if everything is good start the upgrades. Don't fix what's not broke is what they said.
That being said I'm not looking into engine upgrades until I get everything in good order suspension mounts replace hoses brakes and everything around it first before doing anything engine wise. Either way I don't plan on maybe more then about 270-300ish hp wise. Not trying to build a monster. But as stated before it seems like doing any mods is a never ending process. I'll keep you posted on my future plans.
I have not done any performance oriented things to the vehicle yet. I was trying to get inputs on things. I just like making a list of what I plan on doing to the car so I have goals to get those parts.
Tedro heating problem done loose rad hose but so small it took a while for it to be noticeable.
I contacted lindsey they said do a leakdown test if I'm not smoking or leaking oil and don't plan on tracking it do a leakdown test if everything is good start the upgrades. Don't fix what's not broke is what they said.
That being said I'm not looking into engine upgrades until I get everything in good order suspension mounts replace hoses brakes and everything around it first before doing anything engine wise. Either way I don't plan on maybe more then about 270-300ish hp wise. Not trying to build a monster. But as stated before it seems like doing any mods is a never ending process. I'll keep you posted on my future plans.
I have not done any performance oriented things to the vehicle yet. I was trying to get inputs on things. I just like making a list of what I plan on doing to the car so I have goals to get those parts.
#21
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I believe the right one was replaced about 70k ago. Honestly I looked under the car and alot of things they said needed to be replaced didn't look that bad to me. I think it might just need the balljoint rebuild kit. But I have seen in larts online garage a set of control arms for like 2 something can't beat that.
#22
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Honestly if I could get my engine rebuilt for round 4 grand or less I'd be down to start on that route. But I don't have that much cash at the moment. If the leakdown test comes back bad then I will save up for that or wait till next tax return. Haha if I buy the kit would anyone on here be willing to do my rebuild for around 2500 to 3000k lol. In the texas area.
#23
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Honestly if I could get my engine rebuilt for round 4 grand or less I'd be down to start on that route. But I don't have that much cash at the moment. If the leakdown test comes back bad then I will save up for that or wait till next tax return. Haha if I buy the kit would anyone on here be willing to do my rebuild for around 2500 to 3000k lol. In the texas area.
https://rennlist.com/forums/9010761-post1.html
Short Block 70k mile w/new bearings – 1,100
Chris White reconditioned head - 400
#25
Rennlist Member