Paulyy

LOL patrick the photo just popped up now while i was looking for something.

zerMATT951

After all that Clown went through that ended up being the rotor... I highly suggest pulling the rotor off the car and inspecting it very closely front AND back. The problems you are describing could easily be caused by a bad rotor.

Paulyy

It's fixed

i replaced the cap and rotor not long ago, the original rotor was finished but the cap was fine. now the new cap was cracked so i put the old one back ok. it had no difference. The rotor on the other hand looked brand new. when we cleaned the tps, it made all the difference.

zerMATT951

Oops, I missed the fixed mention. Glad you found it! I suspected a TPS issue on my car not long ago so I picked up a complete TB/TPS combo from a lister, and it turned out my TPS was ok. I don't mind having a spare on the shelf that tests out well...

Wald944

Same issue I have been posting. I will continue here...

When people say look for Arc burns, are you looking for the burn marks on the cap in between your points? Mine looks like it burned in between every point.

As much as I am hoping that it is the TPS...do you mean unplugged, it idled fine like it did before the issue?
Do you remember if the car was responsive to throttle, even if it dipped like it was dead or caused it to stall quicker?
By cleaning the TPS, are you referring to the terminals?
I will be checking my coil spark and TPS terminal resistance
(IGN-04 on clarks-garage.com & TPS test on ArnnWorx)

Tonight I performed the Blinktester from LindseyRacing and got code 2-1. uh-oh. please don't be my Rod Bearings!

Paulyy

check your IC pipes.. and vacuum lines, it causes the same issue. the tps wasn't giving out a smooth transition, i sprayed contact cleaner and cleaned out the crap inside and worked nicely.

User 52121

Just watched the video you posted in the original thread, Andy. I was expecting it to run a lot rougher. Sure seems like it idles fine for a second or two and then just stalls.

Have you tried disabling the ISV by jumpering the two pins in the diagnostic connector?

Wald944

Occasionally idles fine...sometimes 5 seconds and sometimes 5 minutes. Really loud and no response to throttle which was why I was thinking knock counter was failing and retarding the timing to account for it. But with engine responding to throttle by shutting off all fuel, I am going to follow the procedure you mention tonight...
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/IDLE944T.html

Then I will look at TPS. Am I to understand the car will/should idle with the TPS unplugged? (pending what I find with the ISV)

User 52121

Well running fine then randomly stalling tells me it's certainly not a mechanical issue. Gotta be electronic is my bet.

Check the ISV per the procedure you found on Clark's. Just note that if the car is stone cold and you disable the ISV it might have a tough time idling until it warms up. But see if you can keep it running with a little throttle. Might also be worth using a pair of vice grips to pinch off the vac hose that goes to the ISV in case somehow the ISV failed in the open position.

Also - where is your idle screw set? It's not screwed all the way in, is it? IIRC on my car it's 1.5 turns out from full in. If you thread it all the way in until it stops that might be trying to keep the idle too low...

I don't know about the TPS (I haven't had one fail yet so I haven't experimented) and what to expect when you unplug it.

I'd also check your AFM. Years ago when I first brought my car home, it had a tough time starting when hot and it had a random stumble right off of idle when tipping into the throttle. Turned out the barn door inside the AFM was sticking when the car got hot. I know this is different from what you're experiencing but I'd still make sure the door moves cleanly and smoothly across the entire range.

Cyberpunky

Thanks Jim. I have a very random no start issue(seems to be heat related) and never thought about the AFM barn door. May not be the issue but worth a look

Wald944

Yeah....so no luck with bypassing the ISV. Also checked the TB gate for free movement and proper setting.

Also check compression in all cylinders and timing. No jumps thankfully considering the oil I found leaking from my new seals. I'll get back to this leak after it can run long enough to show me which seal is leaking.

Next idea is to check the DME.
Anyone have a loaner? I prefer not to pop it open and check for cold solder joints.
I'm in the Chicago suburbs if anyone wants to lend a hand.

Paulyy

Should post a thread if you want to borrow a dme, more people will see it!
Good thing to try as yes solder joins to crack

User 52121

My spare DME guy unfortunately up and moved to Daytona Beach. And he took his spare DME's with him.

The DME in my car has been updated to 28-pin and I don't have a stock 28-pin chip to put in it to run your AFM. All I have is a chip that works with an M-Tune setup.

I don't think it's a bad solder joint in the DME. The car ran fine a few weeks ago, before you disassembled some stuff under the hood to repair various leaks, etc. It's something you've touched since it last ran.

I just re-watched the video. I was originally thinking it was something electrical (something disconnected that shouldn't be) - but now that I think about it, the way it sputters and stalls, it's like it's running out of fuel. Have you checked fuel pressure?

You said you did the clutch - so that means the trans was out. So you were back near the fuel tank. Do you have 12v at the fuel pump consistently while the car is trying to run? Any pinched fuel lines back there?

jerome951

Check the connection at the AFM. I had a similar issue once (resulting in a tow) as a result of this connection coming loose.