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who has the best short shift kit?

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Old 10-20-2011, 10:15 PM
  #46  
zerMATT951
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Originally Posted by Lemming
I have xschop's at the tranny and this one at the shifter http://www.ebay.com/itm/944-951-924S...#ht_500wt_1028

Love the way my car shifts now!
Do you have a pic of your **** & boot setup?
Old 10-20-2011, 10:27 PM
  #47  
Lemming
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Originally Posted by zerMATT951
Do you have a pic of your **** & boot setup?
It's a race car, the **** is a $6 unit from advanced auto and I zip tied the boot around the shaft. Looks like hell, shifts very well :thumb up:
Old 10-21-2011, 12:09 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by xschop
A front shifter does very little throw reduction.....
Depends. Cutting down the stock shifter doesn't change much. Some of the aftermarket billet shifters move the pivot higher which noticeably reduces throw.
Old 10-21-2011, 01:30 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by xschop
I did just that and posted the mod with the weld-in pin dimensions. I also posted how to shorten the front factory **** as well while you're at it. It can be done with a hack-saw and dremel tool as well. It doesn't shorten the throw much, just gives more console/head unit clearance.

http://944hybrids.forumotion.com/t70...exclusive#7137
Ahhhh ****. That's not what I meant. I just became a member of that forum to see the pictures and I meant doing exactly what you did only using a threaded rod with a nut on the other side of the shift rod.

Doing what you did would not solve the problem I am talking about. Both the nub on the shift lever wear (like the picture on that site) but also the hole in the shift rod that the nub on the lever is inserted into wears. When I bought my first 944 I replaced the shift lever with a brand new one then shortly after replacing I removed it and it the nub was already worn because the circular hole in the shift rod was not round anymore. So putting a new nub on there or new shift lever is a waste of time an money because over a very short period of time (less than 3000 miles in my case) the nub will start to show wear again. Unless in your case you used a very strong type of metal which will only just wear the hole in the shift rod even more. Feel meh?

So my question is still, can a threaded rod and nut with some lock tight be used to tightly secure the shift lever to the rod or does the shift lever nub need to be able to rotate in the rod? Hence Porsche using a circlip in the first place??? This question is obviously posed to anyone but xschop you seem to know your **** so does what I am saying make sense to you?
Old 10-21-2011, 02:37 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Lemming
I have xschop's at the tranny and this one at the shifter http://www.ebay.com/itm/944-951-924S...#ht_500wt_1028

Love the way my car shifts now!
Tim, I had 2 goes at a similar product I sourced from the U.K. some years ago. While it was nice in some respects it certainly didn't like early shifting on a cold morning. Do you get any 'grunch' with this setup?
Old 10-21-2011, 08:00 AM
  #51  
Lemming
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Tim, I had 2 goes at a similar product I sourced from the U.K. some years ago. While it was nice in some respects it certainly didn't like early shifting on a cold morning. Do you get any 'grunch' with this setup?
No, it shifted fine till my transmission went last Sunday I'm sure that shifters were not at fault but instead a 23 year old transmission that had never been rebuilt and had 7 hard years or racing on it. Will install spare S2 box this weekend and will keep both shifters.
Old 10-21-2011, 10:26 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Lemming
I have xschop's at the tranny and this one at the shifter http://www.ebay.com/itm/944-951-924S...#ht_500wt_1028

Love the way my car shifts now!
This looks like a Lindsey Racing ripoff? Does that alone shorten shifts?
Old 10-21-2011, 10:40 AM
  #53  
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So my question is still, can a threaded rod and nut with some lock tight be used to tightly secure the shift lever to the rod or does the shift lever nub need to be able to rotate in the rod? Hence Porsche using a circlip in the first place??? This question is obviously posed to anyone but xschop you seem to know your **** so does what I am saying make sense to you?
Hey Sir, It makes perfect sense. However, the shift lever "nub" needs to be able to rotate inside the long-rod barrel. If not, then the forward/aft motion would bind. (reason for the factory C-clip)

I do see a permanent fix for the long-rod barrel deterioration. You could cut it off and machine a needle bearing cup and weld it to the long-rod.....That would be the smoothest of them all.
Old 10-21-2011, 11:01 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by xschop
Hey Sir, It makes perfect sense. However, the shift lever "nub" needs to be able to rotate inside the long-rod barrel. If not, then the forward/aft motion would bind. (reason for the factory C-clip)

I do see a permanent fix for the long-rod barrel deterioration. You could cut it off and machine a needle bearing cup and weld it to the long-rod.....That would be the smoothest of them all.
Thanks xschop! That is what I needed to hear.
Old 10-21-2011, 11:03 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 86 951 Driver
This looks like a Lindsey Racing ripoff? Does that alone shorten shifts?
I have one of the origional Kokeln shifters up front, and one of XSChops for the tranny.. have not yet installed either.. likely wont see use till spring at the earliest!
Old 10-21-2011, 11:53 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by SirLapsalot
Ahhhh ****. That's not what I meant. I just became a member of that forum to see the pictures and I meant doing exactly what you did only using a threaded rod with a nut on the other side of the shift rod.

Doing what you did would not solve the problem I am talking about. Both the nub on the shift lever wear (like the picture on that site) but also the hole in the shift rod that the nub on the lever is inserted into wears. When I bought my first 944 I replaced the shift lever with a brand new one then shortly after replacing I removed it and it the nub was already worn because the circular hole in the shift rod was not round anymore. So putting a new nub on there or new shift lever is a waste of time an money because over a very short period of time (less than 3000 miles in my case) the nub will start to show wear again. Unless in your case you used a very strong type of metal which will only just wear the hole in the shift rod even more. Feel meh?

So my question is still, can a threaded rod and nut with some lock tight be used to tightly secure the shift lever to the rod or does the shift lever nub need to be able to rotate in the rod? Hence Porsche using a circlip in the first place??? This question is obviously posed to anyone but xschop you seem to know your **** so does what I am saying make sense to you?
I drilled out the hole on the end of the shift rod because it was worn as you describe. Found a nylon bushing at Home Depot that fit the shift lever shaft perfectly, drilled out the end of the shift rod to accept the bushing, added a thin layer of grease and it's sweet! Second season on the track with this set up and it's still tight. I picked up a few extra bushings just in case. They were about .65 each. Whole process to about an hour and cost .65 cents! Just ordered the tranny linkage from xschop. Can't wait to get that on there.
Old 10-21-2011, 11:59 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by 400hp944
I drilled out the hole on the end of the shift rod because it was worn as you describe. Found a nylon bushing at Home Depot that fit the shift lever shaft perfectly, drilled out the end of the shift rod to accept the bushing, added a thin layer of grease and it's sweet! Second season on the track with this set up and it's still tight. I picked up a few extra bushings just in case. They were about .65 each. Whole process to about an hour and cost .65 cents! Just ordered the tranny linkage from xschop. Can't wait to get that on there.
Awesome, I will consider that option as well.
Old 10-23-2011, 01:44 PM
  #58  
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xschop, did you get my PM ?
Old 10-23-2011, 11:05 PM
  #59  
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Got xschop's short shift installed today. Now I have a completely tight shifter setup. Shifts like a dream.

About a year ago, I replaced the shift lever and drilled out and bushed the front of the shift rod with this procedure: http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm

Getting the slop out of the front of the shift linkage made a big improvement, but I could then feel the slop at the back of the linkage. Wasn't sure how to go about and fix it. I stumbled across another thread about xschop's kit, and bought his short shift setup as a hopeful fix to the slop at the trans end of the linkage. End result is a super tight and smooth gear change engagement. I like the short throw, but really like it now with no slop. Feels like the shift lever is directly connected to the transmission now.

If you are thinking about a short shift, get xschop's setup at the trans end and also make sure to address the shift lever end as well. When you are done, it will feel like a new car. Amazing...
Old 12-07-2011, 01:12 PM
  #60  
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Used my new shifter this past weekend at the track. Worked awesome! Easy to install too, just 10 minutes. Thanks for a quality product!


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