zerMATT951

So other than my PS rack leaking some fluid, my car has been pretty dry since the reassembly. I just did a 2nd oil change at about 1k miles, and will retention the belts and install the belt covers soon.

Here's my question: should I install the belly pan and batwing or leave them off? I'm not sure if they've ever been on the car since I bought it, and it seems like putting them on will double the time it takes to change the oil.

What do you guys think? Pros/cons? What is the preferred method to jack up the front of the car with them installed?

s14kev

Install them. Your radiator and a/c condenser will work MUCH better, the bottom half of your engine bay will stay cleaner and although negligible, your aerodynamics will be better. It also gives a little more warning for when you scrape that kerb while parking (rather scrape the batwing than the front bumper).

I can change my oil with the belly pan installed. You can bend the aluminum section next to the drain plug up a little if you are having problem accessing the plug.

zerMATT951

How about oil dripping from the oil filter when it's changed? Right now some drips out and I catch it, then spray everything off with brake cleaner.

refresh951

Matt,

If no belt covers I would definitely install them.

I use ramps for most engine work and then I do not have to jack it up.

zerMATT951

It'll have the belt covers soon... just trying to decide how far to go with the rest of the covers

I've got ramps too, I just need to get more comfortable with using them. I've got the plastic Blitz brand ramps with rubber feet at the front lip to keep them from sliding, but it seems like I've still had problems in the past. I'll try them again soon and make myself get used to them.

Scott H

Yup, with ramps the pans are no problem. You don't have to remove the bat wing each time, that stays affixed to the front of the car, but the plastic and metal trays under the engine do come off. I personally don't run the metal one because the PO decided to strip the two studs that it mounts to... Removal and installation of the trays becomes trivial after you do it a few times.

Darwantae951

I would at least run the batwing.

kinglenario

I like them on. Check out this Griots Garage pump for oil changes. Works great on all of my cars including the 951.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...d+extractor.do

zerMATT951

I'm a Griots fan and have looked at that pump more than once, it's good to hear positive feedback from a first-hand user. Thanks!

kinglenario

yeah, it's awesome. i've had it and used it for about 6 years now. no issues. even used to use it with two superformance cobra's which held 9 quarts of oil with a canton oil pan and a big oil cooler. still worked great.

Crackership

I'd definitely recommend putting the pan and batwing back on... As others have said, they serve many purposes. I have ramps, but I can't get my 951 onto them... they're too tall. They work for everything else, but not the 951. This is the procedure I use to get the front of the car up:

1. use emergency jack that comes with the car under the jack point just behind the front wheel to jack the car up enough so I can fit my floor jack under the middle jacking point.

2. Jack up the whole side of the car and place jackstands under the front jacking point and under the torsion bar carrier in the rear.

3. Jack up the other side of the car and place on jackstands.

I usually leave it here, but if I need the front up higher than the back, I'll use a block of wood on the floor jack under the transaxle to lift the car off of the rear jackstands and remove them, and then SLOWLY set the back wheels on the ground.

It's not ideal, but it's the only system I've got figured out.

kinglenario

24" 2x4's work perfect for getting your car on the ramps without it hitting on the front. They just make the ramp more gradual.

Darwantae951

I hope you jack on the front frame rails and not the circles behind the wheels. They are know weak points and are prone to rust f damaged. Ask me how I know...

zerMATT951

I've done that before, but I'm a little weary of tipping the whole car sideways, putting jackstands on just one side, then picking up the other side. Unfortunately, that is probably the best way to get all four wheels off the ground to do exhaust or drivetrain work.

I've done that too - I just need to "modify" a few 2x4's (or 2x8's) by screwing/laminating another thin board to stick out the rear edge so that the car's weight will keep the 2x from slipping forward as you start to drive up on it.

I try to jack at the frame rail, more specifically, at the castor blocks, when I've used this method. My car has been jacked at those circles before and they are already starting to bend in... I wonder if there's any way to save it from rusting now that the paint & factory coating is already cracked?

Scott H

If you're having to jack the car up a little to get a floor jack under it then go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their low-profile racing jacks. I have two of them and the hassle they save well exceeds what they cost.