Steel control arms to replace aluminum arms
10-06-2011, 05:37 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Wow... those are sexy. When did you start doing these? How did I miss this?
Are people tracking these? Not sure I understand the u-joint adapter. I see two sets of holes in the black pieces, so I assume that's how you can accommodate both early and late offset? Do the extra set of holes introduce a potential failure point?
Clearly, I'm interested. Also curious to know how sway bars are accommodated with these.
Are people tracking these? Not sure I understand the u-joint adapter. I see two sets of holes in the black pieces, so I assume that's how you can accommodate both early and late offset? Do the extra set of holes introduce a potential failure point?
Clearly, I'm interested. Also curious to know how sway bars are accommodated with these.
10-06-2011, 05:46 PM
#32
The steel adapters are 4140 chromoly and 4x the strength of the RX7 cast-steel balljoints that they replaced. The RX7 alloy arms are way stronger too as I put them under a press and compared the cast 944 arms deflection....night and day difference. I want to build T7075 alloy arms next.
I've built 6 or 7 sets of these including my personal set on my V8 swap with over 18,000 miles on them and I don't plan on changing them as the graphite Polyurethane bushings are incredible. I have repaired 2 different 944's with busted caster block mounting nuts and it is not easy.
I've built 6 or 7 sets of these including my personal set on my V8 swap with over 18,000 miles on them and I don't plan on changing them as the graphite Polyurethane bushings are incredible. I have repaired 2 different 944's with busted caster block mounting nuts and it is not easy.
10-06-2011, 05:54 PM
#33
Sway bar is kept factory with the bottom adapter i designed. The only mod you need to do is thread your factory sway bar links all the way to the bottom (m10 x 1.5 die) and trim them down.....
Factory on left, Modded on right......
Then cut off the excess to where only 1" length of threading shows.......
Factory on left, Modded on right......
Then cut off the excess to where only 1" length of threading shows.......
10-06-2011, 06:06 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
The steel adapters are 4140 chromoly and 4x the strength of the RX7 cast-steel balljoints that they replaced. The RX7 alloy arms are way stronger too as I put them under a press and compared the cast 944 arms deflection....night and day difference. I want to build T7075 alloy arms next.
I've built 6 or 7 sets of these including my personal set on my V8 swap with over 18,000 miles on them and I don't plan on changing them as the graphite Polyurethane bushings are incredible. I have repaired 2 different 944's with busted caster block mounting nuts and it is not easy.
I've built 6 or 7 sets of these including my personal set on my V8 swap with over 18,000 miles on them and I don't plan on changing them as the graphite Polyurethane bushings are incredible. I have repaired 2 different 944's with busted caster block mounting nuts and it is not easy.
10-07-2011, 10:12 AM
#38
Race Car
Thread Starter
I remember seeing this a few years ago. I'm curious would the new design be any cheaper? I'm cheap. I just admitted it.
10-07-2011, 11:16 AM
#39
That pic with the red modded arms are still on my car with no sign of wear at the Poly bushings or the balljoints. And that pic also shows the Ball-joint adapter bracket mounted on top for a 1" X-member or 1" front end lowering capability (in factory configuration the adapter mounts on the bottom)
As far as cost..... Alot cheaper than the Charlie arms.
Seriously, based on 7075 prices and the sizes needed around $800. Last time I saw a set of "Charlie Arms" for sale they were $1500
As far as cost..... Alot cheaper than the Charlie arms.
Seriously, based on 7075 prices and the sizes needed around $800. Last time I saw a set of "Charlie Arms" for sale they were $1500
944, 951, aluminum, arm, arms, control, conversion, difference, forum, offset, porsche, reinforced, reinforcing, rx7, steel, upgrades
