Doc

...THAT, is the question.

In short, spun rod bearing, need to send crank out. Well for an extra $285 I can have it "knife-edged" So the question stands, "Is is worth it to "knife-edge" if I'm not going to *lighten* other parts with the possible exception of the flywheel?

Thanks in advance!

Jeremy Martin

a knife edged crank is nice, and will decrease drivetrain loss slightly, but is not really necessary. if i were you'd save the money.

R.B.

I heard a while back, that a certain amount of "splash" from the crank is necessary for proper lubrication. Too much is not good and not enough is not good. They said that the knife edging took away the "splash".

I guess with knife edging you could run your oil level a little higher without aerating/foaming the oil.

Has anyone else heard or read anything?

R.B.

Russ Murphy

I just finished reading a section in Chassis Engineering that covered increased hp and speed at the end of a straight by lightening the chassis, the wheels and the drivetrain. Guess what? Lightening the drivetrain by 15 lbs. was worth a couple of seconds at the end of a long straight. Call Garrity and send your crank and flywheel to him. I think he could remove over ten lbs. from your crank and flywheel. I'm not sure about the number, but it's quite a bit.

Perry 951

I would not do it on a street car. You want the weight to keep things smooth.

Doc

Perry, thanks for the comments, but easy up on the brake cleaning fluid. I *am* talking about a race car. (Read "track only" i.e. not for the street anymore.)

Keep the replies comming though.

Toolmaster

Doc -

If this is in fact a "no longer street car - race only" type vehicle, then any rotational mass you can remove will only help you. I'd go with a knife edge, and a light pressure plate/flywheel/etc, as much as possible and as much as the wallet can support.

Less rotational mass means faster revving which means getting to the higher RPM's potentially faster which means higher boost faster which mean - well, you get the picture...

HTH!

Doc

Jay thanks for the input. I think I've pretty much decided to go with the knife-edging as well as a 5.5lbs aluminum flywheel. I wouldn't mind the lighter rods and pistons, but now were talking big bucks.

I will likely go with a slightly more aggressive cam too. (Nothing too drastic though.) I don't want to start worrying about valve springs, injectors, fuel pressure regulators and pumps, engine management etc. (Most likely the "Sport" cam from EBS [$385] mainly because it works with all the stock components.)

For the record, does anyone have any experience with changing cams? If so, what kind and what was the cost? Also what was the gain?

Thanks again!