Very interested in what your car puts down with the 60 trim.

 

What brand of turbo are you running?

 

The ball/spring is a pressure relief, opens above a set pressure point. The "black **** MBCs" are pressure regulators, so limit down stream pressure to the set point pressure. Different functions. Not sure how well a pressure relief would work w/ a dual port WG (?).

 

So the only change between the dyno chart posted in the first post, and this new dyno, is the turbo? No other changes?

Any chance you can overlay the two sheets to show the gains the turbo provided?

 

Interesting. Would love to see/hear the results of swapping out the standard LR MBC for that unit.

I'm always looking for easy ways to get quicker spool. I like my current MBC for consistency but the spool up is slow compared to what I had when I ran a GReddy Profec-B EBC. (Bad batch of zip-ties unfortunately lead to the death of the EBC, which is why I'm now on an MBC...)

If you get noticeable improvement in spool up... please post back!

 

...and the M Tune

 

I thought that first chart was with an M-Tune on the 26/6?

 

First chart was A Tune.

 

It was not as easy as it appears, spent a lot of time in the garage the last few weeks, also had access to a lot of great advice here on Rennlist. Nice when you do not have the learn the hard way. Special thanks to Rob and Onspeed who helped me with the TO4E install.

Also, Rogue's M Tune made this project a lot easier. I received the M Tune last Saturday, took it out of the box, and had installed it 30 minutes (it was an upgrade from A Tune so MAP sensor was already installed). I literally did ZERO tuning ,no piggy back, no special tuning runs, no nothing and the AFR's were perfect. Now if installing the TO4E were that easy.

 

I did an overlay of dyno charts to see the differences between the my K26/6 and the TO4E with the M Tune (everything else the same) and it shows what I felt from driving the car. I added 90 rwhp essentially without sacrificing any bottom end performance. This setup is amazing and I would highly recommend it.


On a negative note this weekend I developed a head gasket leak. When the car is cold I get a coolant smell from the exhaust and slight white smoke that then quits when the car warms up. I debated doing the head when I put in the turbo and it now looks like I will be changing out the head gasket this week. I have never replaced the head gasket on this car and I will post pics of the gasket once I get it out. I do not believe this failure was due to tuning issue as I have carefully monitored knock, A/F and boost. I guess this is just an oppurtunity to replace the seals and get the valves done and spend a little more time in my garage.

 

See what she does in the 1/4!

 

I bet the composite material is broken down around the third and forth cylinders. Just seems to happen over time with these things. Josh had a line on a decent head gasket that was still composite but with many added features. You may want to contact him about that one.

 

Thanks Sid

OT, I saw in a thread where you mention the stock intake performs well with one modification, what is the modification?

 

I have two mods done to my intake. One is the BMW throttle body (had to port out the intake slightly to match the TB).

The second is a mod that Dave McGrath recommended and that is cutting a slot just in front of the throttle cable mounting boss and welding in a piece of aluminum to deflet the air from heading straight to the number 4 cylinder. The piece I used only protrudes into the airflow path about a 1/2" and is about 1.25" tall. I tried to angle it slightly toward the rear as to not obstruct airflow too much.

I have also added a 5/8" water port to the rear of the cylinder head to get some fresher coolant back there using an extra electric water pump. I have not been able to reinstall the pump recently due to a pump leaking, but I will as soon as I can. If I were to really get to business and do what I want, I would add a cross flow of water between each cylinder in/out coming in from the exhaust side and out the intake side fed with an electric pump. It would not take more than a few -4 A/N lines and fittings. While you have it apart you may do some research about the benefits of this from some of the small block chevy racers. You can tie this into the turbo cooling pump and then do a modification to the relay replacing a capacitor to run the pump for and extended time after shutdown (I have a thread on this somewhere). I used the same curcuit since I went to oil cooled turbo.

ramble ramble....... lol

 

That is awesome! Same spool as a K26/6 and nearly +100rwhp