Ordered a new engine today YEA!!
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Well I called Anderson Motorworks and they will be rebuilding a stock 944 Turbo engine with a knife edge crank that will be perped drilled to help prevent the #2 rod bearing from crapping out. The new engine that Anderson is building me will be mated to a T04B-H3 #6 hotside turbo as well. To say the least I'm very excited about getting this thing in the car and running. The car should make 310-320RWHP at 15-16psi of boost after I'm done. Other goodies that will be going on is a HR Stage 3 MAF, Greddy Blow Off Valve, SFR Intercooler pipes, HR 3" downpipe, and Tial 35mm wastegate. Here are some pictures that John sent me of the motor with the knife edge, perped drilled crank installed.
![](https://members.rennlist.com/dan87951/mymotor1.JPG)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/dan87951/mymotor2.JPG)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/dan87951/mymotor3.JPG)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/dan87951/mymotor4.JPG)
#3
Burning Brakes
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With a knife-edged crank alone and stock pistons/rods is it possible to delete the balance shafts as John did in his old motor? Or will you still have excessive rotational mass effect causing vibration due to the heavier pistons and rods. Anyone know how the vibration on a knife-edged crank engine compares to a stock engine?
Seems to me that by reducing the crank mass the harmonic balance as originally designed to compensate a heavier crank will alter the balance resulting in greater vibration. David?
Seems to me that by reducing the crank mass the harmonic balance as originally designed to compensate a heavier crank will alter the balance resulting in greater vibration. David?
#4
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[quote] Seems to me that by reducing the crank mass the harmonic balance as originally designed to compensate a heavier crank will alter the balance resulting in greater vibration. David?
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My car is smooth as stock with knifed crank, lightened flywheel, JE pistons, Pauter rods and balance shafts deleted.
<hr></blockquote>
My car is smooth as stock with knifed crank, lightened flywheel, JE pistons, Pauter rods and balance shafts deleted.
#5
Burning Brakes
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But how smooth do you think an engine would run with a knifed crank that was otherwise stock? Or put another way- if the only thing one changed was to knife a crank would that be sufficient to allow deleting the balance shafts without generating substantial vibration? Thanks for the input.
#6
Race Car
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[quote]Originally posted by David Floyd:
<strong>My car is smooth as stock with knifed crank, lightened flywheel, JE pistons, Pauter rods and balance shafts deleted.</strong><hr></blockquote>
What kind of piston rings are you using?
<strong>My car is smooth as stock with knifed crank, lightened flywheel, JE pistons, Pauter rods and balance shafts deleted.</strong><hr></blockquote>
What kind of piston rings are you using?
#7
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Why knife edge. I talked to Jon Milledge about crank work before and he suggested that knife edging causes foaming. The right way to do it is to make air foil type design. He also went on to say that the a lightening the crank gains about 5 HP and thats after 7000 rpm. Ultimately he suggested that the best way to go is to leave the crank alone and use an aluminum flywheel for good engine response and drivability on a street car. As far as the #2 rod, working the crank is a good solution but a baffled pan is 95% good for a street car. Just what I have been told.
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#9
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[quote] --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by David Floyd:
My car is smooth as stock with knifed crank, lightened flywheel, JE pistons, Pauter rods and balance shafts deleted.
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What kind of piston rings are you using? <hr></blockquote>
Not sure, I will ask Tim and find out.
Originally posted by David Floyd:
My car is smooth as stock with knifed crank, lightened flywheel, JE pistons, Pauter rods and balance shafts deleted.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What kind of piston rings are you using? <hr></blockquote>
Not sure, I will ask Tim and find out.
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Fully assembled long block was $2700, add in the knife edge crank with perp drill, and you are up another $800. I'm gonna ask John to take pictures during the rebuild process so I can put them up on the web for you guys to see. I'm really excited about this motor as it will be going in my first love (Porsche 944 Turbo) that I purchased about 4 years ago. I put this project of for almost a year cause I kept getting different information about motor options from tuners. You really have to becareful on who you purchase a motor from I couldn't believe some of the prices and work that some of these tuners were telling me (no not SFR or Anderson Motorworks were them).
Here is some pictures of the damaged motor that came out of the car. Remember this motor has almost 200,000 miles on it and 20k of those miles were with a HR Stage 3 MAF, Testpipe, and 16psi of boost.
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/dan87951/951_1_projects.htm" target="_blank">Pictures of the motor on my web page</a>
![](https://members.rennlist.com/dan87951/cylinderscore1.JPG)
Damage done to #3 cylinder all the other cylinders were ok.
![](https://members.rennlist.com/dan87951/pistonscore.JPG)
Above is damage done to the #3 Piston
Here is some pictures of the damaged motor that came out of the car. Remember this motor has almost 200,000 miles on it and 20k of those miles were with a HR Stage 3 MAF, Testpipe, and 16psi of boost.
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/dan87951/951_1_projects.htm" target="_blank">Pictures of the motor on my web page</a>
Damage done to #3 cylinder all the other cylinders were ok.
Above is damage done to the #3 Piston