Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

LS6 Project

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-15-2011, 06:09 PM
  #16  
Van
Rennlist Member
 
Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 12,007
Received 88 Likes on 58 Posts
Default

Nice work - keep us up to date!
Old 08-15-2011, 09:33 PM
  #17  
968ls1
Racer
 
968ls1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

RH Radiators (Ron Davis) are triple pass notice the weld marks on the tanks. The pressure in a triple pass radiator is 64 time that of a single pass unit and on a track car the water will spend too much time in the radiator under high rpm to cool efficiently on the track. They are fine for a street car where most of the time you are below 3k. I have helped several guys build these cars over the years as and have seen the cooling problem caused by multi-pass radiators. Summit makes a nice all aluminum single pass unit that will fit the 951 it is less than $200 but you will have to add bungs for the fan switch, fill port from the expansion tank, mounts for stock fans and it is good to add an air bleed at the top of the drivers side tank. BTW the stock fans are plenty adequate for cooling and you can retain the stock 2 step relay and wiring. You can do a really efficient radiator and fan set up for less than $400 vs $850-$1K for the RH unit. Street cars are fine on a good 951 radiator. You can also eliminate the thermostat on a track car by welding up the bypass but leaving a small hole to remove air this will help move the coolant faster with less pressure in the system but it is NOT recommended for a street application. Hope this helps!
Old 08-15-2011, 10:11 PM
  #18  
arthropraxis
Burning Brakes
 
arthropraxis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 870
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

If you go the Summit route you don't even need to get the bung for the fan switch welded in. Connect the high and low speed fan wires to the corresponding wires on the LS ECM. The LS ECM will control the Porsche ran relay. The relay is looking for a ground which is provided by the LS ECM. You will then have the ability to program the fan on an off temps.
Old 08-15-2011, 10:11 PM
  #19  
disasterman
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
disasterman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: T.C. Michigan
Posts: 1,861
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default thanks

Thanks. I was going to keep the Chris White oil water cooler but apparantly the setup is backwards. I appreciate any information. This is not about my way or the highway, it's about a quick pro build of a competitive car. I appreciate and will entertain any information offered.
Old 08-15-2011, 10:58 PM
  #20  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Hey...

You should have got the headers V banded before they were ceramic coated.

No matter... I would have them V banded. If you don't, you have to double nut the bolts, and a few are really hard to get tight due to the tight clearance.

Where id you get the long block? Is it the same CTS-V LS6 that I have? I have a buddy looking for one for another conversion race car.

TonyG
Old 08-15-2011, 10:59 PM
  #21  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Oh... and I would drive someone's car with manual brakes before you do the Tilton setup.

TonyG
Old 08-15-2011, 11:02 PM
  #22  
968ls1
Racer
 
968ls1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

If I can help you with any information please feel free to ask you are going to end up with a great combination once you are done.
Old 08-15-2011, 11:05 PM
  #23  
eclou
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
eclou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 6,995
Received 1,156 Likes on 571 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 968ls1
RH Radiators (Ron Davis) are triple pass notice the weld marks on the tanks. The pressure in a triple pass radiator is 64 time that of a single pass unit and on a track car the water will spend too much time in the radiator under high rpm to cool efficiently on the track. They are fine for a street car where most of the time you are below 3k. I have helped several guys build these cars over the years as and have seen the cooling problem caused by multi-pass radiators. Summit makes a nice all aluminum single pass unit that will fit the 951 it is less than $200 but you will have to add bungs for the fan switch, fill port from the expansion tank, mounts for stock fans and it is good to add an air bleed at the top of the drivers side tank. BTW the stock fans are plenty adequate for cooling and you can retain the stock 2 step relay and wiring. You can do a really efficient radiator and fan set up for less than $400 vs $850-$1K for the RH unit. Street cars are fine on a good 951 radiator. You can also eliminate the thermostat on a track car by welding up the bypass but leaving a small hole to remove air this will help move the coolant faster with less pressure in the system but it is NOT recommended for a street application. Hope this helps!

Tom have you looked at the Wizard Cooling radiator? It is significantly cheaper than RH and supposedly a drop-in. I just ordered one from Chris White
Old 08-15-2011, 11:10 PM
  #24  
95ONE
Race Car
 
95ONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 4,247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 968ls1
If I can help you with any information please feel free to ask you are going to end up with a great combination once you are done.
I have one. Was the 951 drive shaft length an issue because of the inability to push the LS1 further back? Because I am going to move the drivers side firewall So I can put the LS1 back as far as the stock 2.5 was. (or further) I'm HOPING there's room to push the shaft further in? ("she said" joke here)

I can fabricate most anything, so a "shorter" bell housing isn't really an issue.
Old 08-15-2011, 11:42 PM
  #25  
968ls1
Racer
 
968ls1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I have not see the Wizard radiator but if it is from Chris I am sure it is a quality piece. Be sure to plumb the line from the top of the heads (steam port) to the expansion tank and not to the radiator lie it is done on the 941 engine.

I haven't ever had any issues with drive shaft being too short on any of the conversion I have done. I always check the engagement depth of the pilot bearing before I actually install the clutch on the flywheel. This can also be a result of the pilot bearing adapter not being the correct length and that will depend on the thickness of the adapter plate you are using. The length of the spline on the clutch disc is also a factor I worked with Dave Norton at SPEC several years ago to develop the clutches that he sells for this set up and I would not use anything else. The firewall is the limiting factor for setting the engine back more but in the current location the front to rear weight is usually better than the stock turbo 4 banger. When you eliminate the heavy inner cooler from the front of the car the bias is improved. Most track only cars with no AC will actually be lighter on the front end. I am not sure how much can be gained by moving the drive train/engine rearward. I look forward to seeing the projects develope and hit the track!
Tony is correct I would consider power assisted brakes over manual as well as power steering with both the car will be faster, more consistent and easier to drive.
Old 08-16-2011, 12:47 AM
  #26  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by arthropraxis
If you go the Summit route you don't even need to get the bung for the fan switch welded in. Connect the high and low speed fan wires to the corresponding wires on the LS ECM. The LS ECM will control the Porsche ran relay. The relay is looking for a ground which is provided by the LS ECM. You will then have the ability to program the fan on an off temps.
^^^ what he said. that's how I have mine setup, but I wired in a manual override switch in the cockpit just in case.


TonyG
Old 08-16-2011, 08:01 AM
  #27  
333pg333
Rennlist Member
 
333pg333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,902
Received 93 Likes on 76 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TonyG
Oh... and I would drive someone's car with manual brakes before you do the Tilton setup.

TonyG
Why so Tony?
Old 08-16-2011, 09:10 AM
  #28  
disasterman
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
disasterman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: T.C. Michigan
Posts: 1,861
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

In regard to the Tilton setup. With the correct size master cylinders it will feel the same as a boosted system. I decided that I wanted to keep my electric power steering setup so I won't need a power steering pump at all. I reviewed this with some friends in Grand Am and my fabricator. Because of the layout of the 944 we will probably do the suspended version.

The motor is a CTSV LS6 long block, sourced from Superior in Kansas City, John Carter.

We are going to fab up some V band clamps to bolt on, then use a Y to connect my fabspeed single 3" for now.
Old 08-16-2011, 12:30 PM
  #29  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by disasterman
In regard to the Tilton setup. With the correct size master cylinders it will feel the same as a boosted system.
The only way to get the same pedal effort as a boosted system, would be to use much smaller master cylinder bore sizes. The down side to doing that is increased pedal travel. That will make it hard to get the brake pedal to line up with the gas pedal under maximum braking.




We are going to fab up some V band clamps to bolt on, then use a Y to connect my fabspeed single 3" for now.
The only problem with that is it will push the exhaust down at least 1" (of not more) where it has to make the 90 degree bend to horizontal, which on my setup is already a little too low. Yours will then be lower. Too low in fact. You won't be able to use the proper radius 90 degree bends if you do that.

TonyG
Old 08-16-2011, 01:08 PM
  #30  
docwyte
Rennlist Member
 
docwyte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: denver, co
Posts: 7,382
Received 485 Likes on 323 Posts
Default

I thought the Wizard radiator that Chris White sells is very similar to the Ron Davis one?

I need to replace the radiator in my 948 this off season, I was going to get the Ron Davis one. Now I definitely won't, but what should I get instead?


Quick Reply: LS6 Project



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:03 AM.