Well, the chips are installed inside the computers. So you have to crack open the boxes and separate the two circuit boards to take a look at them.



Also the stock gauge is fine. Sometime oil clog the clear plastic line from the intake-manifold to the KLR computer and gives low readings. Just disconnect both ends of that line and blow some compressed air through to clear it and you should be fine.

 

When I removed my intake manifold and replaced the rubber lines, I noticed that my cycling valve seems to have a nylon restrictor on the pressure side. There seems to be a step in the ID of the cycling valve to keep this restrictor in place. Is this the standard setup? The id of the restrictor was probably about 1.5 mm.

 

I was having the same problem... the only thing that has worked (so far) was to increase the fuel setting on the DME to +6% (That's three clicks from oem). I haven't had any time to play with it more, but at least the car doesn't stutter under acceleration. I am also using a 1.0 bar banjo bolt to regulate my boost.

Hope this helps... now on to my own car troubles...

Will

 

Loose NUT behind the WHEEL!!!!!!!!! <img src="graemlins/sleep.gif" border="0" alt="[sleep]" />

 

[quote] Problem: Car will just suddenly loose all power and give a stalling/backfiring effect while under mild boost, ex: cruise control at 3K in 5th and the car starts going up a hill...
Ok, when I'm crusing along then try to accelerate ant a nice semi-hard rate, the car will start building boost, then when it get's the point where it won't build anymore unless I press harder the car all of a sudden drops power and the exhaust tone starts 'uh uh eh uh eh eh, pop pop' and almost sounds like it's giving out on me. Today, it did it in 2nd gear at around 4K, and I just went ahead and held down the acclerator, and some black smoke came out the pipe and it started going.... Could it be that I do not have my 'Manual Boost Controller' hooked up right on my new wastegate? It was doing this same thing with the old wastegate. Here's what's on the car so that you might be able to better help me.
-Stg. II Chips
-Testpipe
-Lindsey Racing Wastegate
-Lindsey Racing Manual Boost Controller
-New 993 blowoff valve
This is very important, I can hardly drive the car comfortably, if I just want to go out to town or something I can't do it, because I can't accelerate lightly, I have to floor it to avoid that mess. Another thing that might help for yall to know, is under full throttle in 3rd gear the boost needle is at the 4th line after the bar under '1'. (the one real close to the 2). Then at 6K, it's at the second bar past the '1'... I just don't know, but this problem is starting to make this car pretty much useless and a great dissappointment... =(, I UNDERSTAND if you don't want to help me, but just thought I'd give it one more try before I put the car up for a few months until I can get the money to have a porsche place look at it and fix it...<hr></blockquote>

Back to the original problem, I would suggest that you take a look at three items that might cause that problem:

1) Spark plugs
2) Plug wires
3) Cap and rotor

Turbo cars can be quite finicky, and require top performance in every aspect, especially the basics.

 

I really doubt that the problem is ignition based, as he descibes being able to make it stop by flooring it throught the trouble spot (on the video) Ignition problems will become more noticable in higher gears and under increased load, with the same throttle pressure such as steady 4000 RPM and then you start going up hill and studder studder. The ignition problems will only get worse as you increase throttle pressure. But if the problem were associated with a bad contact area in the (swinging barn door) MAF sensor this could easily explain shudder at one particular load increment. Just a thought, it's very hard to diagnose cars from a distance.(Although, I do for my family back in Alabama)