my951killsimports

I saw a k-27 turbo on ebay for only 220.00. Since im pulling the head off my car, think it'd be worth it to purchase it and swap it? Second...what is involved since the housing must be completely different than my k-26 #6.

nik

Hi, I think the k27 will produce so much turbo lag that the car will be very difficult to drive. The k27 will not in any way fit, but if you're thinking of using the k27 compressor side and build a k26/27 hybrid it will work fine. But pulling a turbo apart and then reasembling it with the k26 exhaust side is not a job for a ordinary mechanic. The turbo must be ballanced after it have been rebuilt and that is nothing you do with your lawnmover
Don't you have any companies in the US that can leave handle a job like this and the fix it for a reasonble cost...

BR. Niclas

Luke

K27/6 spool just as fast as a k26/6. and faster than k26/8's (obviously)

Compressor wheel size has very little to do with boost threshold.

special tool

If you have a 27 - 6, all you need is a different temp sensor and to slightly bend down the hard pipe of the turbo coolant feed. Obviously you also need a 7 mm intake modification as well as
dme chips.

aka 951

Luke - where did you get the info about a larger compressor wheel not affecting spool time?

Luke

[quote]Originally posted by aka 951:
<strong>Luke - where did you get the info about a larger compressor wheel not affecting spool time?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Seems odd doesn't it

Pick up a copy of the book "maximum boost" it's by Corky Bell. You will really enjoy it. (good book)

Konstantin

a larger compressor wheel affect spool time but it is not as much as the bigger turbine.
a k27#6 is a little slower than a 26#6
a k27#6 with MAF is a little better than a k26#8 without MAF.
I tried them both so I know for sure ;-)

Konstantin

Luke

It is the material used that affects boost threshold the most though.

Paul Bloomberg

I going to change my name to END USER!
I've had a 26#6, K27#6, K27#8 and now a real dual ball bearing turbo that should make a reliable 400 RWHP w/race gas. That is what the last few cars that where built using this set-up made! I'm waiting for the car to be finished!!!!!! : )
In my experience the K27#8 was far better. It produced 20RWHP more than the #6 with the same set-up! I didn't notice anymore lag. Besides when you want to go fast. Do you keep the rev's up or keep flooring it from 2500RPM. Just to note that I had a free flow exhaust, maf, ect... I guess if you didn't have a complete package maybe the lag would be more noticeable if you didn't have this stuff???
Paul

my951killsimports

Thanks for the info. I just saw it and though "well, since the heads coming off, why not?" . I have a cat-back exhaust, chips, MBC and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Once the head is off Im going to do a 5-angle valve job, port and polish as well as port-match my intake. Since its off, why not, right??? I'm also thinking of O-ringing the head just in-case. How much work would be involved in doing a k-27 transplant? All i really want is to be able to do 15 psi all the way to redline. Also, how the hell can i change my MBC from a valve in the engine bay to one in the cockpit. ?

Luke

I would reccommend a turbonetics turbo from SFR over another Kkk unit. It would probably be cheaper too.

Bri Bro

Anyone, does the hot side of a K27 fit a 951? If it doesn't, the Ebay $220 deal isn't a deal at all. You would have to send it out with a K26 hot side to be rebuilt and that would really drive up the price. Luke might be correct, a SFR turbo could be a better investment.

Russ Murphy

951killsimports,
You can install the MBC in the dash in lieu of the cigarette lighter. It only requires a very little of modification of the dash metal frame to do it.
There's a picture on this thread.
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=18&t=000905" target="_blank">SDS Install Complete</a>
I spent a fair amount of time recently looking at head options because I had to replace my head gasket. What I found is(as it relates to your questions), unless your're planning on removing your head in 10-15 thousand miles, choose a 3 angle grind, it lasts significantly longer typically. "O-ringing" the head is unnecessary with a wide fire ring gasket at 15-16psi. Not only is it unnecessay, but the proper way to do it is to groove the cylinder as well and use a copper head gasket for a rippin' race engine. I wonder how often the head groove depth for the o-ring and the crush height of the wire don't quite jive and all you have retaining all that pressure is a little bitty stainless wire.