*eurospeed951*

I have a Greddy Profec A EBC, but I don't think it is working properly and I want to test my car with a manual boost controller. I have a Lindsey Raceing Boost Enhacer just laying around. Can I use the as a boost controller? If so, how do I hook it up?

Thanks

special tool

Works fine for me right now - and hold pretty consistantly with no spike. Just go from intercooler pipe to lbe to wastegate, if you want to bypass the cycle and plug the return to the intake. Make sure you have a good guage hooked up because the boost will vary in INITIAL settings from one car to another with only the lbe.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

*eurospeed951*

Ok, so with a dual port wastgate and no cv, I should have it go between the IC and the boost side of the wastgate, and then another line that comes from the intak manafold and splits three ways and goes to the boost gauge, KLR, and vacume side of the wastgate. Right?

DangerIsland

I've heard it's a bad idea to splice the KLR signal line, from a few people. Don't know if that's how you're running now, or what, but it's something to think about.

*eurospeed951*

so than what are my other options?

special tool

Guys, I am not talking about the klr line. I am talking about the signal pressure line that goes to the wastegate - didn't I say that? Yes, it is a bad idea to splice the klr line.

coolhand

Whys is it a bad idea to splice the KLR line?

SamGrant951

yes..thats the line i have spliced..which one is better and why?

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/sngrant/102_0227.JPG" alt=" - " />

Mike B

I like that blue vacuum hose you have Sam...Is that thick wall stuff and where did you get it...TIA

special tool

I don't like the klr line splice if for no other reason than the time delay (however slight) it will cause in excessive boost pressure reaching the stock klr in the event of mechanical failure (cracked wastegate line, stuck wastegate, etc).
I have my aftermarket guage spliced into the other branch which contains fuel damper, fuel regulator and bypass valve. Obviously, for an lbe, or other type of boost CONTROL, this line is too small - you want a 1/4" line for that.

Ahmet

I run my gauge off the signal line going to the KLR. I don't see/feel a difference in "response".

If I'm following you correctly, what you're suggesting is that the volume of the piping to your gauge will increase system volume (manifold to KLR) enough to make a difference in response. If this is what you're worried about, thenyou can shorten the KLR line to your liking to make up for the difference...

However going by the same logic, aren't you just increasing the response time of your FPR, and BOV instead? Would this not be just as bad if not worse?

Just so that it's clear, my opinion is that the difference is too small to consider. I chose the KLR line, because it was already in the cabin. I have also shortened the line on my car by about an inch (for the same reason).
Ahmet

tazman

With the after market chips does the KLR actually use the boost reading for anything?

RJP 951

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Ahmet:
<strong>what you're suggesting is that the volume of the piping to your gauge will increase system volume (manifold to KLR) enough to make a difference in response.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Ahmet,

I'm thinking along the same lines as you, but I'd go a step further and suggest it doesn't matter where you tie in because you're increasing volume in any case. The boost/vac lines that run to the dampener or anywhere else are all part of the same total volume that contains that boost or vacuum, yes?

Ron

SamGrant951

on my boost controller, it said *not* to tie into any fuel pressure/dampner for a signal, so I didnt. klr..works fine although its not dialed in perfect yet...

silicondigital

The FPR and other vac lines are the same. they come off the same bajo bolt (s), i have a MAP kit and it splices into the KLR line with no problem. I also have my boost gauge T'ed into my main vac lines though. No need to F*** with that hard brittle line to the KLR any more then you have to.